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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About CharlieD

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    New Orleans, Louisiana
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    Kevin Leonhardt

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  1. For your first build? I would say no. I’ve put together quite a few rifles, and it has taken me awhile to figure out some of the nuances that make an accurate rifle. Buying a JP is just so much easier.
  2. Receiver fit is tight. Very accurate barrels that are thermal fit. Smoothest lightweight BCGs that I’ve used. Their SCS buffer system has become a must have for me. Nice adjustable gas blocks. Great trigger. i’ve had a JP in the past, but don’t shoot one currently. I assemble my own, but still use some JP parts.
  3. Getting a proper cheek weld is extremely important. A wider stock is no good for me, but I must have a stock with a cheek riser. Magpul makes snap on cheek risers for their CTR stock, which is a pretty decent and cheap. Otherwise look at companies that make fully adjustable stocks like Smoke Composites, Tacmod, XLR, or even the magpul PRS.
  4. It really depends on style of match, bay stages, sure it’s cool. Long range stages with wind, not quite as cool. 16” is safest bet, and it affords the ability to easily change comps, which a new shooter is likely to experiment with. I used to be a short barrel fan for 3gun, I ran. 13.7” mid length gas barrel with pinned comp are a while. A couple things I learned along the way. 1) it was nice in confined space like a car, but that’s a rare situation. 2) longer gas systems really do shoot nicer. 3) shorter barrels have shorter handguards, which suck on some props like rooftops when you can’t go mag over. No matter what you choose, you’re not wrong.
  5. 18” fan here, I prefer the rifle length gas system. 16” with intermediate length gas is good also. 2” difference in barrel length doesn’t really have an impact one way or the other. Proof Research, Rainier, JP, or Stretch are all good options.
  6. Yes to both. Primary Machine is known for their precise optic cuts. I know the guys there well enough to know that they would not do something unless they could do it right.
  7. Send them an email, but I believe it’s around $200. It’s done properly, and I have a true return to zero when I remove it and remount.
  8. Send the receiver to Primary Machine and have them mill it for a dot. It’s really the only way to get an optic low enough to get a good cheek weld. I really like the circle dot reticle of the holosun 507c.
  9. Don’t recall, but that was not on max. It is perfectly daylight bright on max setting. The center dot is larger on the K18i vs K16i, which I think works out better. Your eye is drawn to the center better.
  10. Here’s a pic of the 3GR reticle on the K18i
  11. Both are 2nd focal plane. The new Kahles 1-8 is pretty awesome. The FOV is so good that 2nd focal plane works out really well with this scope. With a typical 200 yard zero anything out to 250 you can pretty much hold cross hairs, so you can use any magnification, then dial 8x after that.
  12. Agree completely, the Holosuns are cheaper and don’t seem to fail often.
  13. Interesting thread. I’ve shot about 10,000 rounds of the 150 syntech and a little less of the 130 PCC ammo. The 130 has been solid, but the 150 varies from lot to lot. I’ve had lot numbers that are 100% and I’ve had lots that run about a 5% failure to fire rate.
  14. Stealth division is the greatest thing to happen in 3gun. I would love to see stealth division at other matches. Actually, I think you could do away with tac-ops in favor of stealth. Or, perhaps an easier pill to swallow, keep the tac-ops name using stealth rules.
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