Nickb45

I agree, 380 brass needs to disentegrate upon firing. I have loaded up a couple of 147gr 9x17 cartridges with too much powder. Thankfully they are easy to spot once the ammo box is filled up. Amazingly what goes through my 550 when I am on cruise control.I've had a few .380s slip into my 550, luckily they don't feel same when they go into the sizer.

I hate .380 brass.

I've been shooting a 4.25" 1911, I have to load my rounds a little hot to make major PF. I haven't had any issues with accuracy. I really like the way the pistol balances and transitions. I will be going to a 5" gun this year. The longer sight radius does help, and the longer barrel helps with velocity. I would say shoot whatever feels better to you and is reliable.

I have been cocking mine for first break out of the holster, after that just pull the trigger. There was a link earlier in this thread that showed you can tape the hammer down to the grip safety and your trigger will feel closer to the real thing every time you pull it.

I just started working through Ben Stoeger's dry for book. I really enjoy it. I try to do half hour to an hour 5 times a week. I keep track of page numbers and par times in a notebook, along with a few notes on how the drills went. I'm new to the sport, my initial classification was a C in Lim10. I went out and did some live fire drills today out of Ben's "Skills and Drills" book and was able to get pretty close to some of the goal times which made me feel really good. I'm really looking forward to working through both of these books and seeing how I do this spring when our monthly matches start back up.

I bought a Citadel 9mm and am very happy with the fit. It's very tight and smooth. I bought it for a cheap project (I told me wife it was for her to shoot Steel Challenge with). I would buy another one, I have recommended them to a few buddies as well.

Welcome from Central Washington.

3.4 grains of Titegroup under a 135 bayou loaded to 1.115 gives me 975 fps out of a 5" 1911. It smokes a little but it's very accurate and smooth.

I've noticed that when I am eating good and exercising I feel a lot better at matches. I do the "Insanity" workout videos and feel like it helps A LOT with speed on field courses, it also seems to help getting into and out of shooting positions quickly. I'm young(26) and fairly new to shooting USPSA but towards the end of last year I got back into exercising and my last couple of matches I just felt faster and more confident.

Great article Patrick! My new Stoeger needs some adjustments.

My Ruger frame wasn't too bad. I didn't practice on any bar stock, I just used the Caspian practice frame then went onto the real deal. Make sure you keep your file clean and chalked. I chalk mine after every 10 strokes or so.

That just sounds mean. I think we will set it up at the next match.

I'm way behind, I only have 2 550's and a Rock Chucker.

Pm sent. I have had good luck with the power customs guide that I posted a link to. I use a riffler to get the line started, it was too hard to get the pattern file flat and in the same spot when starting.

I went for a combination of all the things listed. I shoot round nose bullets so feeding wasn't an issue, I went between 200 and 230 grain bullets. The next was power factor, if you don't make major there is no point in shooting a 45. After I had loads that made at least 172 power factor I went for accuracy. After I have that figured out I try to stick to that load so I'm not wasting time and recourses trying to "improve" or tweak the load.

I got my files from brownells. Here is a link to the rifflers I use. I have both medium and fine. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/fine-file-sku080648604-701-2881.aspx?sku=080648604 If anyone is interested in a jig like the one I made for holding the frame, I could do up a few more them.

I started with practical pistol. I just got skills and drills, and his dry fire book. They seem to work together. While reading the beginning of skills and drills, I seem to fit into about every one of the "you're doing it wrong" categories. I'm looking forward to having more structured range time, rather than just wasting ammo.

I've been very happy with Bayou's. 135s with 3.3 grains of TG gives me 980 fps out of a 5" 1911. I also use them in my 45's. I haven't found a bullet I like more, I also haven't found faster shipping or better customer service.

I've been happy with Mobile1 for a while. Ballistol to clean (that stuff has been around forever as well) mobile1 full synthetic to lube. I don't want to spend $15 on 4oz of oil, if my guns get dry I can always get some off of a dipstick if I really need to.

I got an M3000 ordered it should be here next week!

Work shop... My second home, although I probably spend more time here than I do at home.

The undercut is a personal preference thing. But once you have one with it then you will probably want all of your 1911s to have it. It gets your hand a little higher on the pistol. For holding them, I started with a piece of .5X1.5 aluminum, I drilled and tapped some holes then used bolts to go through the windows on the frame. The bolt heads got in the way and I couldn't rotate the frame in the vice. Then I made a different one that has a piece of .5X.5 square with 1/4-20 set screws, then a piece of round that's turned to .540. With this fixture I can rotate the frame anyway I want in the vice.

Thanks Patrick. I wanted to learn the "real way" about half way through my 3rd frame I started getting serious thoughts about setting up the mill. But I get a lot of satisfaction out of doing them by hand. If I had another 4 or 5 to do I might take the time to throw the 4th axis in one of the mills and at least get my lines established.

First off call Caspian and get some "practice frames" they are $25/each and worth the money. I use a guide from "power customs" http://www.midwayusa.com/product/233273/power-custom-universal-checkering-guide-1911?cm_vc=ProductFinding I undercut my trigger guards before I start checkering then I start by filing the front strap(there might be some bumps and divots you can't see until you file it), then emery cloth to smooth everything out. I use Dykem, It helps a lot, along with good light. I start my horizontal lines first, it's easier for me to keep the lines straight going around the contour when it's smooth. I go pretty deep with the checkering file before switching to verticals. I use a round needle file to create a "boarder line" under the trigger guard. I use the same guide to start my vertical line, but I use a riffler to start the first vertical. I put the file with one side square to the guide so the line stays straight. After the line is established I take the guide off and continue to use the riffler to go deeper so the checkering file will track from the first line. I use a piece of wire in the "boarder line" under the trigger guard for a stop. After all the lines are pretty deep with the checkering file I Dykem everything again and go over each line with the riffler, I do all the horizontals until the Dykem is gone. Then re Dykem and do it again for the verticals. This is actually on a Ruger frame. Keep your files clean and chalked. I use sidewalk chalk, I blow out my file and the frame every couple of passes, then chalk the file some more. The chalk doesn't let anything stick to the file. Don't try to do your first one all on one sitting. It takes me about 8 hours to do one complete, the first one was a couple of 6-8 hour days. Feel free to ask any questions.

The hotter you load Unique the cleaner it gets. I've only ever loaded about half of pound of the stuff. I use WST and Solo 1000 for my .45 loads.