TennJeep1618

I was catching up on some older episodes of "That Shooting Show" last Friday on my way home from work, when Steve mentioned making a dry fire swinger target. I couldn't make it to the range that day and I was in the mood to tinker, so I swung into Lowes on the way home and grabbed the stuff to make this:

That makes sense.

Are you sure they weren't saying "overlay?" Potential doubles and hits at the very edge of a scoring zone are judged by overlays: https://www.uspsa.org/uspsa-store-product-details.php?Set-of-Overlays-82 Edit: Here is a video explanation:

Ogive is (in my understanding) basically the point at which the bullet reaches the full diameter. It's typically used in reference to the shape of a bullet. Here is some more info: http://www.accurateshooter.com/ballistics/tangent-vs-secant-vs-hybrid-ogive-bullets/

I can do you one better. Let me know if you have any questions after watching the video.

I haven't spent much time behind an RTS2, but I have compared them. To me, the 2.5 MOA DPP appears very similar in size to the 6 MOA RTS2 at similar brightness settings. Your eyes may be different, but that's what I see.

That may mean that your strong hand is gripping the gun too tightly. A good way to mask/overcome that is to grip the gun harder with your weak hand.

Yes, it was an open gun and it landed on the optic at least once in the bouncing. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I bounced one across the room (6 or 7 feet on a carpeted floor) one night before a match. It held zero just fine and had no damage. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Indeed. Most people pull the trigger with much more than the required force when they're shooting a stage, so practicing proper technique during dry fire should help.

That worked. You can also paste the direct link (right click on the image, then copy image address) into your reply and it will show up in the forum. Like so:

With that gun, I'd recommend a DA first pull (if you're using it in Production), then simulate an SA pull for each additional target. Let the trigger out to the point where it would reset if the gun had cycled, then pull it back to the frame.

What kind of gun are you using?

You can open it in paint and use the resize feature. Or you can upload it to a photo sharing site, like imgur, then just paste the link in your reply.

That's a thumb guard/shield: http://www.1911store.com/thumbguardbcg.aspx

I'm assuming you're right handed. Some right handed shooters like them because they can still use the safety when shooting WHO. I personally only single sided safeties on my 2011's. My grip is pretty high and the right side safety digs into the knuckle of my trigger finger, even if it has been shaved down.

Welcome! There are some great matches over at Dothan Gun Club.

Welcome! Do you shoot at CORE? Have you ever made it over to the matches in Vinegar Bend, AL?

Same as Production.

I'm just guessing here, but it may have something to do with you not having 50 posts yet.

Thanks for all of the info in this thread, guys. I've been intrigued by the Q5 and the Canik TP9SFX since they came out, and especially since I got bit by the CO bug a few weeks ago. I planned on trying to find them both locally to check out, then a Q5 fell into my lap today. I'm looking forward to getting it in my hands to see how I like it.

You're right. That's was I was thinking, I just didn't say it correctly. Have you had any problems with the compressed spring preventing the sleeve from moving up far enough to drop a bullet?

So basically it pulls that sleeve down (engaging the detents) when it's not actively dropping a bullet?

Read the description. It ships for free, but you have to choose "local pickup" at the checkout screen. I bought the same kit a few weeks ago.

I may be misunderstanding your question. Is this what you're talking about? https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=159 Or are you looking for something to actually push the bullets down through the tube/die?