mikeinctown

Is this something that a new style spring fixes, or am I stuck with an inferior spring design? The M&Ps for sale locally say approx 6 years old. They are M&P40s. My other choice is a Sig P226 in .40 but it is $100+ more and I already have a P226 in 9mm and a P229 in .40.

I'm looking at the possibility of buying a police trade in M&P either in a 9mm or .40S&W. As I don't currently have any polymer frame guns, I'm not sure if there is anything to inspect before I try it out at the range for the first time. What else should I look for with a striker fired gun like this? (I currently have mostly Sig pistols and a CZ SP-01) I'm most likely ordering one of these on line, though there is a local place that has a few trades where I may be able to select one. So I may or may not be able to pick one and would just have to accept what is shipped. Thanks.

Whatever you get, just remember you only need a drop. You don't need to slather the entire part, bolt, or whatever in the stuff.

When people say their fingers are coated with blue, it isn't like a paste or anything. It is literally like a slight amount of color. If you were to handle like one or two cheese puffs, that is probably the amount we are talking about here, rather than a whole bag of cheese puffs.

They wouldn't ship it to you anyway. They have 4 locations and one location gets way more powder than the others. Heck, I didn't even know the one location has a range until last week.

Shooting them seems to be similar from what I have read. Generally the difference is where you live and how much it will cost to get a given amount shipped to you. For me, the Blue Bullets are cheaper shipped to me than Bayou or others. May be cheaper with another company where you live. I can also attest to how tough the coating is. Very thick and you can't chip it off with your finger nails. Also doesn't chip off when using a bullet puller. They feel very slick and any blue residue you get on your fingers washes right off. Would I rub my eyes while loading them? heck no, but i wouldn't be so stupid as to rub my eyes after handling the gunpowder in the process.

8lb jugs anyone? $139.99 plus tax at my local place. 231 was $10 higher. They had TiteGroup, 700x, and a bunch of other Hodgdon powders. Was surprised that their shelves weren't completely full of Alliant stuff like they were prior to Christmas. Did notice powder did go up a couple bucks vs last fall prices. Primers also went up a couple bucks and LPP was sold out. 20150130_173827-1 by mikeinctown, on Flickr

New to you 650 or brand new from the factory 650? My guess is that you have some dirt, or other cleaning media that got into the slide, keeping it from moving. Dillon sets these things up individually and they work out of the box, so I would assume that the problem after 50 cases is externally created.

That's like $100-$150 worth of stuff. I did see the Op post what he got and it sure looks like a score. great deal!

In looking at my reloading manual and in reading the various threads on the forum, the HP-38 appears to be a more universal powder and not quite as fast burning. There is more load data for it than the titegroup in the .40, 10mm, and .45ACP. It may be all perception, but I'd rather err on the side of caution. It is also a recommended powder for 380 auto, which I may wind up doing as the GF wants a PK380. (didn't mention that in my first post)

That doesn't make any sense. The metal closet then becomes the bomb. The plastic jugs on a shelf would be the safest I believe unless you go to the expense of building/buying a true "magazine" for storage. Metal cabinets designed for storage of flammable materials are safer because they provide an extra barrier to flame and heat. The same rules are in place for gasoline cans stored inside buildings. Also, the way the cabinet is made also determines how it will react to a prolonged heat source. (there may be areas in which pressure can escape, unlike a gun safe)

I'm sure most of you guys think you can't have too much powder, but I think I may have just that right now. I have roughly 15 pounds of Unique, Bullseye, and TiteGroup. Well I just found 231 and HP-38 available at a local shop and told the guy i would be in to pick up an 8 pound jug. I can use the 231 almost universally, where I have limited use for the TiteGroup. I shoot 9mm, .40, and .45ACP. (Using Unique for .40, and Be for the .45) Is there any reason you guys can think of to keep the TiteGroup vs selling it off?

$1300 is a deal for that? Maybe my math is off, but it seems like you can get that stuff cheaper through BE. 650 setup $560 2x caliber conversions $160 Case feeder $220 Case feed plates x2 $80 Strong mount $46 Roller handle $46 Total $1,112 What I do not see is if the dies are included, extra tool heads, powder measures, etc.

I clean mine up before I load any new rounds in the press. No use chamber checking the rounds into a dirty barrel. Plus I like the smell of the cleaner. LOL

Polishing is different than sanding. If you are using a buffing style wheel and a polishing compound, there will be no "lines" running perpendicular. Also, if you are sanding with a fine enough grit of paper, you will also never see or feel any lines. (think high gloss finish on the paint of automobiles)

I only shoot three different calibers. Why would I want a minimum of 7 presses?

The rod with the pointy tip that rides on the plastic case feed can also make some noise and wear into the case feeder as well. (the name escapes me)

Any update on what the final solution to the problem was?

Oh wow, never noticed the shipping charges changed. To me, the DVD and toolholder with wrenches are unnecessary. there are so many Youtube videos on how the machine works and how it gets set up that you can watch these for the next few days and almost know exactly how the machine is supposed to work. the printed instructional manual is almost perfect as well and if you take your time, the 650 will make a perfect round on your first attempt.

I noticed this is very very true. My Dillon crimp die was so smooth and once I put the FCD in there I noticed more resistance on the down stroke and significant resistance even on the up stroke. The bullets do have a more uniform factory appearance, but I may just go back to the Dillon die because of ease of use. This is with .45 ACP, so 9mm or 40 S&W may be different. Honestly, I would just get a set of the Dillon dies to start and go from there if you find you don't like an aspect of the dies later on. The Dillon dies are also longer so the lock rings are on top of the tool head, vs LEE dies, which sometimes need to have the lock ring on the bottom.

Got my first press this year and went with the 650 over the 550 because of the indexing. It may seem like a more complicated machine but in reality it allows you to focus more on the critical steps in the process. Rather than focusing on placing a case, my attention is 100% on looking at the powder in the case and placing a bullet on the case straight. It also has the 5th station for the powder check as well.

Yup, though I really can't figure out why they have to make their boxes so big. I bought 4-5k of the CCI primers when they were on sale so when the Federals were on sale I only bought another 2-3k. Wish they had put their LPP on sale in addition to the SPP.

Where I am every store has TiteGroup on the shelf and you can buy 1, 4, or 8pounds of you desire. Looking for 231 or HP38? Forget it! It is almost as if Hodgdon has figured that the Titegroup will work well enough for everyone that they will supply that to everyone for a bit. (Though I did see some CFE Pistol on the shelf as well as 700x yesterday)

Hideous is an understatement. Pink golfing shorts would look better.

Snapped a pic of my setup as well and it is similar to Henny's in appearance of the die. 20141216_193232 by mikeinctown, on Flickr Right now I have the bolts that hold the collar loose enough to remove the measure as I don't keep powder in there. But, you can clearly see that the die is significantly higher than the others. (two Dillon and one a Lee FCD)