mikeinctown

Came across some at the store today but wasn't really sure if I had a use for it. I already have TiteGroup, Unique, and Bullseye to play with. The TiteGroup gives a nice flash in my .45 and the BE-86 is supposed to have a flash suppressant. (they market it for a ,40 and 9mm powder though.) They also have American Select which they have data for, but not sure if anyone has used that, either. I load .45 right now but plan on loading .40 and 9mm before too long. The shop also had BE and Unique 8lb jugs at a great price so I'm thinking about just picking up one of those. Unique seems to be the most universal with the best burn rates for what I would be loading. (according to the manuals I've looked at) I'm really just trying to get something close to the 231/HP38 that works so great with everything, but is never in stock.

This is EXACTLY what I need. I don't shoot enough to justify a $500 bullet feeder but at $150 this looks like it can really help and it is very simple. (hey kids, load me up some bullets) I am wondering about the powder drop die they talk about. Why can't I use the regular powder drop belling die that is already in the machine? Does the Mr Bullet Feeder one expand the case differently so the bullet seats more firmly in the case?

I was also wondering if the actual diameter of the bullet might be what is causing the issues. If they are perfect to size they they would be undersized compared to other coated bullets being used. For example, my Blue Bullets in .45 are supposed to be .451 but on my calipers they measure between .452 and .453.

The pin holes on my 650 allow the grease to squeeze out. The fittings go into the ends of the pins/bolts where the nut threads on. Or at least that is how mine is set up.

Northern Ohio.

I must be in the best area in the country. I've bought 16 pounds of pistol powder over the summer, small pistol primers are $24/1k, and I somehow managed to only buy ~7-8,000 .22lr in the same amount of time. Passed up on many thousands of rounds as well because I had already found enough for my needs.

Good deal at $425. I'm sure everyone walked away satisfied that a good deal was made. For that price I'd probably own two right now. lol

I would sit down and add up all the costs of what you are getting. 650 =$566 Strong mount and roller handle is $100 Case feeder $220 For those things brand new you are at $886 Now the question becomes just how much extra are you getting? Ar eyou getting any caliber conversions? Dies? Two extra tool heads is like $60. Not a whole lot of cash there unless it has the powder drops and powder dies.

Mike, If the mods made are ESP legal, then you are OK to shoot in ESP. depending on the mods, you may still be able to shoot SSP if you're able to revent back to stock form. Magwells, would be a prime example of this. While illegal in SSP, they are perfectly legal in ESP. If you removed the magwell, you would again be legal for both SSP and ESP. The rule is: 8.2.2.1.7. All firearms legal in SSP are legal for use in ESP. This provision may be used for firearms that violate an ESP rule (for example, a firearm with a steel dust cover or rail over 3.25") to still be used in ESP, provided the firearm meets all SSP requirements. To use the SP-01 in ESP it must still be SSP legal, if modifed to not be SSP legal (i.e., mag well) you can not use it in ESP. That is how I was reading it. If you keep it legal for SSP then you can use it in ESP as long as you keep it SSP legal. But if you actually change anything to make suitable for ESP competition based on allowable additions then it suddenly becomes ESP AND SSP illegal. Makes ZERO sense. The way the rule should be written IMHO is that any poduction gun (their definition is fine, with the exception of what a custom shop is) shall be legal in SSP. Any gun legal in SSP shall automatically be considered legal in ESP and may also be modified as follows... That makes it very clear as to what is allowed and offers a starting point.

Former customers are the best way to gauge why your product needs improvement. Why does that customer not come to buy your product any more. What can be done to get hat customer back, if there is anything that can be done. Companies spend millions of dollars figuring out how to best retain and get back former customers. I can guarantee the best way to gain customers and get back former ones is to NOT say "oh you don't shop here any more, we don't care what you think".

I shot the first batch I made of the Blue Bullets and TiteGroup and am satisfied, though I was getting quite a bit of muzzle flash vs what I get with factory ammo. a bit more kick as well, even though my 3 different test loads were 4.3 4.4 and 4.5. I felt the 4.4 and 4.5 were the most accurate, though it could just be me having gotten used to the gun as time went on. The data in the Lyman book would indicate my findings were correct though as they list starting points for TiteGroup of around 4.5. No keyholes from any of the rounds and for the most part they chambered easily. (really need to get a couple Wilson Combat mags) I inquired about the FMJ Zero bullets from my local source and will NOT be buying from them. 100ct packs are $16 but if I wanted 1,000 I was told it would be $175. HUH???? My next test will be with the FMJ 230gn that I bought. I think the 4.5 is what I'll stick with for now, though I'm wondering if maybe Unique would work better?

I'm a noob both here and to the sport of shhoting in general. After doing some research into what clubs I have locally, the majority of them shoot IDPA and so these are the rules I have been looking at. So a few comments from a noob after reading some of the rules and comments regarding this thread. 1) A 3% response to an internet survey based on an email sent is rather good. There are many, amny people who don't even look at their emails or they just delete them. A vast majority of people don't care enough to get involved in advocating for anything and yet another group still might feel put off by past actions. 2) Based on the numbers floated here, if 30%+ of all comments were regarding one specific thing then you can bet your house that this is a BIG issue for your members. If 75+% of the comments dealt with 3 or 4 of the rules then you should look a whole lot closer as to why the comments are there and re-examine why the rule is there in the first place. 3) I still do not understand a justification for the footwork rule as people are describing it. According to the rulebook you have to be behind cover. As part of the goal and stated name of the organization is "defensive" I'd really like to know what makes moving your feet any less defensive if you remain behind cover? If I am fighting for my life I am certainly going to be moving in an attempt to either get away or gain position if I cannot get away. I sure am not going to stop and stand in one spot while I do something with my pistol. 4) I do not understand the dowel rod rule. If a holster and weapon is concealed then why does it matter if it sticks out 1/2" or 1"? Along those lines I still cannot figure out in their illustrations why a belt they show with a holster is claimed to be illegal. 5) The dust cover rule for ESP. I can shoot a factory SP-01 in SPP and the only reason it would be legal in ESP is because it is SPP legal. If I do one thing to the gun, no matter how minor that would make it illegal for SPP I am now illegal for ESP as well. (even though ESP is supposed to be allowed more modifications??) 6) I know this is a point of contention among many and I only bring this up because I am looking into buying a CZ to use down the road, but the whole notation about no modified pistols from factory custom shops allowed is crazy. (paraphrasing here) I'm not sure if people think the firearm business is somehow different than any other business out there, but if a manufacturer has a contract with a supplier or shop to assemble a certain product it does not change the result of the product put on market. The product is listed in the catalog, has a product stock number, is ordered through the MFG, and carries a manufacturer warranty then the product is from the manufacturer. Just because you have assembly done out of house does not mean you haven't made the product. (especially when documents from the ATF show that the shop doesn't actually manufacture any firearms) I worked for MTD for a time and we made a certain product for 5 different companies to their specifications. They were sold under that company name, not ours, and those companies were the ones putting out the catalogues and carrying the warranty. They were considerd the manufacturer of the product. Another example could be an iPhone. It might be made in a factory in china owned by ShintoLTD company but we see it as being made by Apple because they designed the specifications, designed the packaging, claim ownership of the patents, and sell and warranty the final product. the fact they outsourced production or assembly means nothing. 7) Do CCW courses offered in states around the country require people to look in the mirror and hold their arms out to be sure they remain CCW? or is the standard just that the weapon remains concealed? Also, given that so many states have open carry laws, why the need for concealement anyway? It just seems to me that there is a lot of focus on something that really bears no relation on defense at all. (belts, holsters, length of outerwear, etc) Some of these can be taken as questions that I just don't know the answer to, but some may be taken as a why does that rule even exist. As I said at the top, I'm still trying to get to know the rules and am a relative noob to the sport.

Mike, I bought a bunch of 9mm ammo in the spring when you still couldn't find it anywhere. I didn't even have a 9mm at the time (was going to buy a 9mm but wound up with a .40) Anyway, three boxes of ammo fit nicely in the width of a gallon size foodsaver bag. I vacuum sealed a half dozen boxes and have no worries about humidity or anything else until I fire them. Depending on how many I load in a session going forward I may use the plastic trays and vacuum seal in quantities of 100-200 with the ID sticker tossed in so i know what it is later. Considering you get something like 5 or 6 rolls of product at Costco for $40 or less you can seal a LOT of ammo, or even your favorite meat when you buy it on sale. lol

LOL @ Sarge. I asked this question a week or two back. The length on my .45 reloads varied by almost .005, but always on the +.005 side, never to the negative from where I set the die at. I am using coated lead, so it would make sense that the length could vary based on coating thickness and other imperfections.

Thanks for the info. I've been reading the IDPA rules that many of the clubs around me utilize and it seems I would be taking a risk as to what would be legal and not if I bought a standard SP-01 then worked it over. Have to be very careful. If I bought the regular shadow non railed then I know I'd be legal as long as the company produced 20,000 of them. So frustrating.

OK thanks. I see they already give you a different hammer than normal and you get an 85 trigger already. So I guess what they give you with the base really isn't any better than the standard stuff? Or is the hammer and trigger mid grade and you pay extra for the best stuff? BTW, did you get the DA/SA or SA only? I'm also wondering if there is a way to get the rail on the Shadow without buying the Shadow Sport model or if that is the only way.

Istone, are the grips you refer to the same style that come on the SP-01 or something different? I like the feel of the ones on the SP-01. Also, with the shadow you ordered, how did the pricing work out for you and where did you order it from? I ask because a few places I have seen on the web show a retail of close to a grand for the base shadow plus work. If you order it through the LGS then maybe you get a price break? I know the guy I use for transfers will order for you at his cost plus shipping costs plus 10% for his profit. Other places like to charge closer to retail price and the big one locally is kind of a chain who doesn't custom order, at least from what I'm told.

Well after some not so exhaustive searching, there are a handful of places within an hour drive for me that hold IDPA events, or at least follow IDPA rules. there are only one or two that have USPSA events. I do not plan on participating in an event any time soon. The current goal (as you point out) is to get the correct model of the 75 that I can work with and get used to.

To be honest I do not know. The ranges within 30 minutes of me are all indoor ranges that do bowling pin shoots on occasion. I was turned on to an outdoor range maybe half hour from where I work but do not know if they do events. Also do not know if there are any other outdoor ranges within about an hour of my house that does events. So at this point I want to pick up something that I can get used to, practice with, and then possibly use at an event down the road. It was my hope that the standard SP-01 with trigger job or the Shadow model would be ok either way. There is a used SP-01 local to me and the guy wants $600 but considering what a new one goes for here I think he is $50-$100 too high (at the minimum) There is another about 3 hours from me for $700 -"CZ 75 SP01 with a cajun gun works short reset trigger kit, race hammer, spur, and disconnect. Also has dawson precision sights (FO front, serrated rear)." I think this is probably worth the $700 but not sure who did the work. Also have to factor in the gas for my truck for a 6 hour round trip.

Thanks for the opinions so far guys. I also see the Tactical Sport which looks to me as very similar to the Shadow Target.

There aren't a whole lot of dealers around me that I've seen sell CZ pistols. One LGS got a handful in stock and until a couple weeks back I had never even touched a CZ. After being able to handle a 75 SP-01 I feel the need to purchase one. The problem I'm having is trying to figure out which one to purchase. There are several I am looking at and would like to get something that I can shoot with should I start getting into any local competitions. I have also looked at the XDm 5.25 and the ease of upgrades has me really thinking, though I love the weight and feel of the CZ. My choices 75 SP-01 stock. I can purchase for about $600 plus tax. 75 SP-01 Tactical. (or is it just a 75 tactical?) Same price but instead of a safety you get the decocker. 85 Combat. Again, around $600 SP-01 Shadow Target. I think the price on these are around $1,300. the Accu Shadow is completely out of my price range. This one is way up there but if I sell off one of my other pistols I will have the $$. 75 shadow. This is where I am confused. I see several of these on gunbroker for about $800. they have the shadow slide but the grips look to be standard grips. As I only know the Shadow models from a catalog and they are aluminum I'm not sure if these are custom models or old stock. I believe if I get the SP-01 I can purchase parts and do work that will get me near the Shadow Target. Can the same be done with the 75 Tactical? Are there upgrades for the 85 Combat, and if so how does it compare? Thanks in advance

I've been looking at prices for my needs and I've found that it really depends on what you are shooting. For 230gn .45 Zero FMJ from Powder Valley are the best deal in a qty of 2000. They are just ever slightly more expensive than the Blue Bullets, but for FMJ, it is a great deal. For 180gn .40 S&W from Blue Bullets in the Medium Flat Rate box. For 124gn 9mm from Blue Bullets in the Medium Flat rate box. I've looked into Bayou and other places but when you add shipping on top of bullet cost, they start to become more expensive. You need to get the big boxes that in general run ~$225+ in order to get best pricing. Extreme is sometimes an option with their free shipping and ever changing prices, but the ever changing prices can also make them more expensive. Wish they also offered more bulk than just 500/box. All that said, pricing could change tomorrow and I'd be running all the numbers again.

Couple things I can think of. Cycling just a bit too fast, lube where it shouldn't be, or static. (all mentioned above) Possible that maybe a burr on a machined part could also cause the issue?

Awesome idea indeed. Can fill the block very easily before you even start.

For the price of the budget reloader case feeder I would rather just try building my own. It is at a price point in which I think I would just spend the extra $ and purchase the Dillon if I were to actually purchase.