mikeinctown

550s seem to be on sale everywhere you look so I would actually expect the value to be a bit lower than say a 650. (for every one 650 I may see, I see at least a dozen 550s) I think the 80% is a good starting point considering it will have been basically refurbished by the mfg.

I went and stared at my Dillon with casefeeder and could not a find a single part even remotely close to that size which would be machined.

Slide glide for me. Incredibly slick, stciks to whatever you touch it to, but still wipes away without much hassle.

The two items are sold seperately anyway, so just buy the casefeeder in small pistol as mentioned. Some places like to advertise it all as a package but really it's just individual components ordered at the same time.

Really doesn't matter which ones you buy as they almost all use the same coating (except Blue Bullets) with different colors. Pick the place that is closest to you so that you get them in one or two days. No groove from Blue Bullets works fine in my 1911 loaded short. Could be wrong, but IIRC they also went to no lube groove because as they started making heavier bullets you would have to seat them further in the case to get the same OAL. With the lube groove gone you could make the bullet shorter and not have to seat quite so far down into the case.

I am loading .45 and went from the Dillon die to the FCD and found the press was way harder to operate than it was before the die. I too am using Blue Bullets in the press. Using the Dillon die some rounds were almost snug when barrel checking but with the FCD the rounds seemed almost loose. It's a dilemma for me on which die to use as the press is so buttery smooth with the dillon die installed.

Not going to argue about the wet vs dry tumbling, though with the wet you won't be breathing in ANY of the bad stuff. As mentioned, skip the powder check. You'll be standing over the press anyway seating the bullets and it is so easy to just glance into the case to make sure the powder is there. Also, with the auto indexing, it is very hard to do a double charge. IMHO, much harder than a 550 for example where you may not manually turn the shell plate. I'll disagree with the others about the quick change kits. Even if you have to inspect the charge before you start, if you haven't touched anything, that could take 3 minutes, vs sitting there and dialing in the adjustments every time. Plus the dies all stay in the tool head so you have an entire assembly ready to swap.

The rules sometimes are so messed up, however parts made by aftermarket companies to replace internal factory parts are legal. I know originally with IDPA anyway that the accu shadow was not legal because CZC was machining and installing a bushing. However, this just appears to replace what the factory already has in place, but with tighter tolerances. (no machine work) Which CZC hammer would I go with, if not the CGW "production legal" hammer?

Wondering what the OP decided on? If no decision yet, I'd go with the 650 with casefeeder. the 1050 may be awesome but it is a bunch of money compared to the other presses. (min. 2x the price) As mentioned though, you should be mechanically inclined as there are a lot of moving parts that work in concert with each other. Set up properly, it makes reloading more of a joy and less of a chore. Also go on YouTube and look up all the videos you can about the presses. i think that if you watch a 650 video and a 550 video you will quickly understand why people do recommend a 650 over a 550. If you get a 650, plan on spending about $300 on "upgrades" like a roller handle, strong mount, press light, and other things that make the press easier and safer to use.

It really helps if you have your location updated in your profile. Some powders and even primers seem to be available at any given time based on region. Right now I can go buy all the HP-38 and eve Winchester I want, but the Alliant that was in stock for 2 years is suddenly missing from the shelf. (and until now, finding the HP-38 was like a unicorn) For a long time I could buy all the CCI and federal SPP and LPP I wanted and now all they have is magnum and rifle primers.

No way a 550. 650 all the way. Just being able to pulll the handle and visually inspect for powder and then drop a bullet on a powdered case is worth it. If I was adding a case and turning everything by hand I'd probably forget at some point to do a given step. The 650 is so nice though, being able to not worry about case feeding or indexing, and hearing he bullet drop off the back size into a bin is so very satisfying. If you do get a 550 though, check armslist or other sites as there are always a bunch for sale. As to cost difference, this is how I rationalized my 650. .45ACP is $20 a box at the store. I can reload with coated bullets for $10 a box, saving myself $10 a box. In your case, 1,500 rounds a month is a $300 savings over store bought, and the press can be "paid for in savings" in just 3 months.

LOL I'm probably going to be so nervous at my first match that I'll be happy to hit any part of the target and not be DQ for breaking some safety rule.

Hmmm, so the standard 16 round mags for $21 or the 17 round with anti friction/anti corrosion coating for $26? (prices from Greg Cote)

Much appreciated so far, and thank you clangclang and dogtired about the Mag advice. The OEM mags are like $50 a pop plus the basepads. If I can get lower round count OEM ones (or the Mecgar) for $20 and then add the basepads, I'd be feeling a lot better about buying extras.

Most places south and west of me are or were IDPA, but I found some places an hour or two east that are USPSA and checked out a match yesterday. I want to start competing. The three guns I have that I'd likely want to use are a P226 Combat 9mm, Sig 1911 tacops .45, and a 75 SP-01 9mm. I figure the CZ is my softest shoooter and is on the list for production so that will probably be the one. I plan on ordering some parts from CGW but don't know for sure what is legal and not. Do I order the competition package with the stock replacement competition hammer, and then the 10x bushing, steel guide rod, and the spring tuner kit? Based on my understanding of the rules in production, All the parts on the competition package should be legal, including the hammer as long as it is available factory on a different approved gun from the same MFG. I'm unsure though if the competition package comes with the reach reduction trigger package and if that would be legal or not in production. Last, since production is apparently limited to 10 rounds in the magazine, does it make sense to buy the more expensive SP-01 magazines, or just go with cheaper 10 or 14 round mags with basepads? Sorry for what may seem like dumb questions, but I'd rather do things right the first time and not screw up.

One other thing to remember (or learn) is that a new powder measure will not have the graphite build up and will have a slight static charge on the plastic and metal parts. Running the 10x drop and averaging helps coat the parts with the graphite and you will get consistant charges that way. i learned in here to use 1x used dryer sheets to wipe down the inside of a new measure and then I store a handful of used ones inside the measure when not in use. Over time the graphite build up will make that unnecessary. Last, I've read (and it makes sense) to fill the hopper about half way and keep it somewhere between 25-75% full. Last, i have read people connecting oxygen pumps from aquariums to the side of the powder measure as it vibrates it some and ensures a consistant measure every single time.

I'm aware that normally one does an FFL to FFL transfer across state lines, and I've used that process for a couple of the guns I've purchased that were shipped to me. In my state I can also do a face to face transfer with no fees or backgroud check provided that we are both state citizens and legally able to own a gun. This question deals with buying if I happen to be in another state. The way that the government wanted it done in the past was that I would buy the gun, then the dealer would have to ship it to the FFL in my state, then I would have to have it transferred there. I recall reading about a court case where the judge ruled that buying from any FFL no matter what state you resided in was legal as you were in person and filling out the form. Do not know if that was confirmed or overturned. So what are the current regulations regarding transfers/sales? I live just over an hour from the border of another state, and frequently travel into that state as my family owns propery there. I'd like to be able to make purchases there if I wanted without having to pay to have anything shipped, then pay a separate FFL transfer fee.

Saw the videos yesterday. How much height does the autodrive add to the machine? From the looks of it, it is easily 6-8" higher than mine is, installed on my strong mount base. It also appears that the machine is not bolted down to a bench. Is there that much added stability that the press doesn't shake?

LOL, I was trying to imply that the stack of cat litter containers in the photo may not exactly be full of cat litter, but rather some much heavier metal.

I'm going to guess that you don't have that many cats. LOL Sad to just see that BE is not selling Dillon any more. the way the web page here was set up and everything easily explained, figuring out what would be needed for an order was simple. All the 650 stuff was on one page, where now I go to the Dillon site, they have all the calibers mixed together. Going to be a learning curve. And thanks to BE for this awesome web site. Without it, I would not have bought a 650Xl, nor would I most likely even be reloading.

Good choice on the 650. A few years back I had the same considerations and went with the 650. The 650 is just easier, even if you don't load thousands a month. And yeah, the casefeeder is a HUGE upgrade. When i started on my 650 I just had my son fill the feeder tube. Now he stands and watches the brass fall right into place. A bullet feeder would be nice as well, but unnecessary IMHO unless you are doing a LOT at once. It is so easy to just get going placing your bullet with the left hand and cycling with the right. The primer warning will go off as long as you have the brass case stuck to the top. Just stop for a few seconds to reload the primers and you are off again. a few upgrades i would suggest as your first one(s) Case feeder with the extra plate for a the other calibers you are going to be doing. A light kit available on eBay. Used primer kit that feeds into a jar or awy from the original cup. The taller base Many people say get the roller handle. I still have the ball handle on mine, but I've never done more than 200 rounds at a time. By the end I could tell though that the roller would be better. When you go for additional calibers, just order the new head with powder kit. So easy to pull the head off and leave all the dies in place. Then the work is far less changing all the remaining components. Last, watch lots of Youtube videos. Watching the videos was what made me decide on the 650 over the 550. I also got a good idea of how to set things up, as the instructions were a tad confusing once or twice. Watching the videos made everything I saw on the instruction sheet make sense. Oh, and if you go to gun shows, start getting there first thing Saturday morning as there are always one or two people selling reloading equipment, though the other dealers normally snatch it up quick. the 550 parts are far more common at the shows, so if in need of a second press for a less used caliber you may find a deal. (last year I picked up a Dillon swage tool and two die sets for $60. Sold the die sets for the $60 I paid)

As snarky as it was, the comment about using a construction tape to show an accurate measurement is quite funny. There is a built in movement of the end of the tape measure so that you get the same inside and outside readings depending on where you have the hook, but they aren't always accurate and do wear. Someone should really have a something more precise. Still, the box appears well over 6". What I do not understand is why there even needs to be a box at all? Does it fit in the holster? If it does then use the darn thing. Things that are big and bulky are harder to handle, harder to maneuver with, and generally just harder to work with. The natural process takes care of itself. At some point something is just too big to be used as fast as the user needs.

Ok thanks, Yeah I don't want the magazine sticking out, just the basepad so my finger has something to touch. (my SR-22 is like this. Sucks with no mag, but add the mag and it fits my hand) Also, thanks for slapping me in the head and making me realize the others are aluminum frame. I want the steel, so there really is only the one. Too bad there isn't a CZ75 compact shadow lol. I'm also liking the prices right now. $500 or so for the Compact from some places. (one I know of even less)

I got to handle a CZ75 compact for the first time over the weekend. I love how it felt weight wise and how it mostly fit in my hand. However, I did note that the gun was so short that my little finger had nowhere to sit, which I didn't like because I like for that finger to feel like it has control of something. The mags that came with the gun are all flush it seems. Does any one know if there are other base pads or magazines that will extend the bottom a little so that my little finger has something to sit on? Also, There are a couple versions of the 75 Compact. Wondering which is the most popular and for what reason.

If you put your location in your profile then people may be able to help you locate what you need. I'm fortunate enough to be able to get everything I need 5 minutes from my house, including all my Dillon needs.