Wideload

So if the ruling comes back adversly for the older RS triggers, how is some unfortunate match official going to differentiate between a modified vs unmodified trigger safety 6 months from now?

It seems that we're all over the place on this issue... Lets keep in mind that what we need to ask for is an enforceable set of rules that a RO or the guy running the Chrono stage can clearly say is or is not appropriate for a particular division. I believe it's already been stated that these guys are not all experts on every gun made and may not know what is a visible external modification -- i.e., the new pivot point on the Vanek trigger, shaved safety are couple examples of mods almost invisble to untrained eyes. Furthermore, super light Production Division triggers is not just a issue with Striker fired guns. I've seen guys stone and work their triggers on their Production CZs to the point where they will only shoot (with confidence), hand loads with Federal primers. Setting a trigger pull limit is a clear and concise measure that a Chrono Stage can effectively measure. It needs to be set at a threshhold that allows for a smoothed out trigger through normal wear or a cleaned up trigger that enhances reliability but not the super light - custom triggers. This also allows gunsmiths to also calibrate the triggers/packages for Production division. [Yes this may mean rethinking/refitting my Sotelo trigger to the new standard as well but, I would rather do it once and be confident that I would not have to deal with further ambiguous or hard to enforce rulings on this topic.] Keeping sveral boxes of Winchester White Box or some other common, commercial round in 9mm and .40 S&W at the Chrono Stage to test for "Reliability" at the Chrono Stage is another concrete, measurable option. (May want to think through on logistics and possible impact of shooting jacketed round through a barrel that may have heavy leadding. The latter may present a safety issue but it is still a concrete measure... Maybe use factory primed cases instead) So circling back to the original argument, what other concrete and UNIFORMLY ENFORCEABLE measures are there?

What others have said about the mag release and controls. If there is a range near by that rents guns, have your friend try out CZ85, Sig 226, S&Ws, USPs and what ever else they have to offer that is within his budget in addition to your battery to see what works for him. Also figure on needing at least 5 mags and holster so set aside some of the $$$ for accessories.

Nebraskan, What direction are you leaning to as far as a pistol selection? The Safariland closeout above sounds like a great deal if you think you will go with a 1911 or CZ format. To meet your immediate needs, you may in a better shape with a basic nylon holster from Uncle Mikes or any other maker for a large frame pistol. You will also be able to use a generic holster when trying out a different gun in the future. If you want Kydex, you might also look into Talon Tactical. They may be able to create a "right minded" holster for you for a reasonable price.

My 4" 625-3 with 5.4 gr of WW 231, 230gr LRN, Federal Primers and mixed brass was running PF180 at last year's A3 (Conditions were best described as a typical hot and humid July day in Kansas). However, this is a pretty dirty load. Have to clean the cylinder after 4 or so stages. Have you checked the moonclip and made sure it is straight? Lay them out on a glass table (or some smooth, flat surface) and check for any warpage. Discard any that do not lay flat.

Keep your food in a separate container, maybe leave it in the car. It's something that you are not going to need going from stage to stage and more importantly, keep it separated from that lead contaminated range bag. Also, do take some sanitary wipes with your food container... in case there is no water to wash your hands before eating.

Got my kit today... Great instructions for installation of the new trigger in the frame (even for a non-engineer) ... took less than an hour. (would have taken less time if I knew beforehand how the firing pin assembly came apart) Lubed the new parts as instructed and cycled the slide and pulled the trigger maybe 50 times. Took it to a local USPSA match... Ran flawlessly. Had another shooter try it and it ran for him as well! Great kit! Great Price!

Ok... joining the party... ordered a kit tonight. BTW -- The Triggerkit.com site has a message saying that the price of the kit will increase to cover increased cost of materials and shipping on Feb 1. Did not indicate by how much...

One more thought... Get enough mags for your G23 and shoot it at couple local matches. (3 should do for IDPA SSP and 5 for USPSA Production) After you have a match or three under your belt, you will be better able to decide what you really need.

I think you have some conflicting priorities. While you can get an accurate SA gun that is light, small and chambers the round of your choice, you will not be truly competitive against the full size guns shot by most USPSA and IDPA shooters. There are some superb shooters who win local matches with their subcompact guns but they are the exception and not the norm. It's also likely that they will resort to a full size gun when there are money and prizes to be won. My suggestion is keep the G23 for social situations. Check out G34/G35, XD Tactical, CZ75/85 and any of the guns mentioned by these posters and see what fits best in your hand. If you can borrow or rent a few, try them out. But get it in a full size version for competition.

I would not factor in cost considering that you probably already own enough G17 mags that can be used with G34. Once you buy the additional XD mags and support gear, the total cost differential between the two guns is probably negligible. Seems to me the decision should be on whether you want to try a new division in IDPA or want the redundant system with the G34/G17 combination.

1. Provides additional trigger time, 2. Sometimes with shorter barrel guns and 3. Simpler support gear. 4. Also have to add to the list the greater likelihood of encountering low/no light stages...

A member at the local club I shoot at has started painting his Glock frame. Some kind of Krylon spray paint is supposed to work really well (assuming you allow it to cure for about a week after application). Saw it last month when it was tan. I hear that it's now bright yellow for the bumble bee look. Seems that for your application, it's a trip to your local hardware store and pick a unique color(s) of your choice and quickly have some very personalized base pads.

Based on input from the forum, went to the local range to buy it... The price I got was for case of 500 not 1000 rds. Bottomline -- not as good a deal as I originally got excited about. May still try some but am no longer in a rush.

It's already been said earlier but... keep it simple and shoot major -- already have the mags and the load in .45. This is the same load for my 1911 as well as the 625. To begin playing in SSD, there is no additional magazines to buy, no new dies to buy or loads to work out.

You cannot have too many guns... however, there is nothing wrong with either of the guns you already own. As recommended by the other posters, come out and shoot what you already own. After you shoot a few matches you will have a much better idea of what and how much you really need.

Does anyone have any experience with the 9mm Military ball ammo -- Supposed to be mil surp 124 gr with published vel of 1250 fps. Buying it by the case, is going to be slightly cheaper than the Wallyworld 100 pks of 115 gr WWB. Will be shooting it through Glocks...

How about losing the cylinder off of a revolver during a stage??? The screw retaining the yoke had come loose. During a reload -- the cylinder is opened -- empty cases are dumped out -- the barrel is pointed down the ground to load a fresh moon clip -- the cylinder assembly slides down and hits the ground. After an expetive or two, holster the clearly empty gun, pick up the cylinder and go to the safe area. Net result -- DNF for the course Lesson learned -- Make sure that screw is tight

Get the extra Wilson magazines Get the Uncle Mike's Kydex or some other basic holster that will fulfill the fundamental requirements (i.e., strong side with trigger covered) to play the game Get the most basic of mag holders Go to a match or two and ask a lot of questions before sinking lot more $$$s on gear Spend more on ammo or apply it to reloading gear

Do you have an idea on possible dates yet?

One more thought... Get more shooters classified with Revo. At the next "Classifier Match", encourage people to bring out their Revos and get a classification. Even if they don't end up shooting it regularly or at bigger matches, this means one more USPSA classified revo shooter on the books. ... After all, it's part a game of numbers...

Get more shooters to try revo without forcing them to buy additional gear. Get them thinking they can do this competitively. At a club level -- Organize some side matches at a club level for revos. Set it up so that you do not have to draw from a holster and maintain round count under 18 rounds per stage. Many shooters may have a revo or two in their safe but only 1 or 2 speed loaders and probably not a competition type holster. Get shooters to bring what they have out of their safes without having to purchase additional competition gear. If a shooter doesn't have a revo but still wants to try it, lend them yours for this event. Also provide instruction at the beginning of the event for how to unload/reload revos so that if they only know how to shoot bottom fedders competitively, they get a walkthru of the fundamentals, and maybe not "emabarass themselves" (in their own eyes). Maybe throw in a random drawing for a revo accessory for this event. At larger matches -- get vendors to sponsor a similar sidematch event.

**** Economics of N-frame 625 vs a K or L frame also depends on what you already own. Cost -- If you already own a .45 acp and reload for it, you may find that the difference in price of the gun may be partly negated when yo compare the cost of reloading gear or factory ammo. The cost differential will also be reduced when you examine cost of Speedloaders vs Moonclips. You also get to apply the KISS principle and load for only one caliber instead of two. In addition, if you want to go play some other games with that revolver, where power factor plays a bigger role, you will want to consider a N or L frame or a Ruger for a gun that can take a steady diet of 165+ PF ammo.

I am... signed up in Squad 30 for Saturday. R Suzuki

Convert - first handgun I ever owned was a surplus Walther P1 (Alloy frame P38). Began playing with .45 ACP revos as a diversion for semiautos shooting the same load. Past couple years, the revo comes out more often than the bottomfeeders (despite the fact that my times with a bottom feeder is twice as fast)