Wideload

I have a .45ACP series 80 Combat Commander with a learning opportunity. In anticipation of an upcoming Single Stack match next Saturday, I began cleaning the gun and noticed that the Ejector is loose AND it looks like the front of the part has broken off and the back leg had sheared off. So here are the questions... After reading other posts, I 've come to conclude that I must replace the Ejector. So who makes one that is as close to a drop in part for a Series 80 Colt frame? Sounds like Brazos or Wilson but want to confirm. Is there a trick to getting that little piece of the rear ejector leg out of the tiny hole in the frame. I have not begun the dismemberment process because I want the new part in hand before I take out the old so I don't have to rely so much on long term memory to put the gun back together. However, I am concerned that the piece still stuck in the frame will not readily cooperate with me as I cuss and grunt at the gun at 2AM of the match date as I try to fit the new Ejector. Thanks in advance

Yep. And it's even more fun beating the crap out of them with a revolver! I was waiting for someone to state that... and with 25 percent (or more) reloads over an 8 round single stack :D

Seeing higher numbers in NE Kansas. Quick scan of recent local matches shows average of 10 Single Stack shooters at the Friday night Bullethole matches. and 11 at Millcreek in Feb & March. This repesents 20-30 pct of the match participants. The biggest attendance appears to be the 21 shooters (out of 53) at the Special Classifier at the Topeka club (CCPS). The Single Stack only match scheuled for May at the Topeka club may have something to do with it.

Perfect excuse to buy a S&W 625 with a hand full of moonclips. Not the most economical solution but you won't have to worry about a too light of a load preventing these revos from cycling.

Curve the new-gun-itis urge and get yourself a decent progressive press to crank out the .45 acp rounds. Our host has some fine Dillon presses. Also get a decent manual and components and you will have invested about the same amount as a decent production gun. You will be able to keep your .45 fed for less.

Remember to use round nose bullets. Semiwadcutters will hang on the edges.

Few more things you may want to consider ... Photograph, fingerprint and collect DNA specimen from the suspect (errr boyfriend) during the interview process. Have him pee in a cup for drug screen as well as provide a hair specimen in case there are any questions about the screen. (If he does not have hair on top of his head... it can be obtained from other parts) Finally photograph the vehicle, record the license plate and VIN.

Good plan -- to shoot both games with the gun you have. They both have something to offer a revo shooter and you will be able to decide whether you like it well enough to invest in a new gun. Also don't forget ICORE. There are guys who do extremely well with a basic 6 round gun in the Limited Division. If there is a local club within driving distance from you, you need to check them out as well. Regarding finding a used 625 in the local market, be patient. I've found several in KC market, typically 2 weeks to a month after I blow the "new gun budget" on some other gotta have item.

Thank you Mike and Stephanie for hosting another great match.

I've switched to arched mainspring housings on a couple of my 1911's and it helps when switching back and forth with Glocks. The only problem for me is I have a little more of a problem depressing the grip safety. I have adjusted them to release easier. Same here. An arched MSH helps me out, for sure. (Does the Ed Brown "wedge" work even better? Still made?) Arched mainspring does make a difference but, the bigger problem for me is remembering to deal with that lever next to your thumb. If I transition from a Revo or a Glock to 1911, inadvertently I will fail to disengage the safety or unintentionally re-engage it while recovering from the previous shot. This stuff settles down after a few rounds once my brain gets reset for the different frame. (In other words it helps if you shoot the same plaform consistently and avoid the temptation to shoot a different flavor at each match)

For IPSC or USPSA? Seems to me the differences in rules -- trigger pull and mag capacity will shade the outcome. CZ SP01 for USPSA is my current.

As we covered clearly in a recent match, "practicing" is specifically treated as "unsportsmanlike conduct". Match preparation is strictly limited to finding your gun on match morning and bringing whatever ammunition you happen to have lying around *on match day*. What about insuring peak performance with a vicious hangover, 2 hours of sleep or a nasty head cold? Would not want to come well rested...

The stage diagrams came out today... If you are registered, check your email... No ugly swinger with a big no shoot covering up all but the A and B Zones like there was last year. I am sure I'll find plenty of other opportunities to go faster than I should and incur lot of penalty time. Now if I can just set down the bottom feeders and practice some more, I might not look so bad shooting the round gun...

Keep the Sig. The fact that you are considering having work done on it means that you like the gun well enough and may regret parting with it. You can always sell it later... if you need the cash for something else. Go shoot USPSA with your Glock. You can shoot it in Production, or with minor add-ons like mag exts to increase your capacity to 20 rounds, hold your own in Limited. If the true driver is a 'new' gun, keep your eyes open for a CZ 75/85. You will often find them more competitvely priced (in the range of $400 - 500 in several forum classifieds). You will also be able to shoot a CZ75/85 in IDPA without doing any work on it (i.e., weight reduction for SP01 to get it down to 39 ozs). Signed a Lowly C class USPSA shooter.

Moonclips, moonclips, & more moonclips. Can't have enough when shooting the 45ACP revos. Moonclip holders. California Comp works or Bladetech. There are couple others that work much better for competition but, are more than what you want to spend.

These conditions can be a test of the shooters' skill and motivation, as well as their equipment and general preparedness. I shot a local match yesterday with beautiful weather in NE Kansas, windy, damp, high in mid 20's, snow on the ground and threat of freezing rain all day long. Got some remiders about shooting in cold weather... 1. Clean the gun of any heavy grease and the grunge built up in it before the match. 2. Wear enough clothes -- Remember heavy gloves while you are not shooting. Shiverring does not contribute to your accuracy. 3. Manipulating guns -- even with light weight glove liners, it requires techniques with more overt - gross motor skills -- i.e., if the gun locks back, sling-shot the slide cloesd after insertion of a fresh magazine. 4. Clean the gun once you get home... No pictures but still was fun.

Come out and shoot the stock 9mm BHP in L10. Get a few matches under your belt, see what others actualy shoot, ask lot of questions and then decide what you want to buy next.

The wear described is typical and is an indicator that the owner actually shoots the gun. These guns were meant to be shot so quit worrying about the finish and start shooting. The money you save by buying kydex over a custom leather will get you the moonclip holders and more moon clips.(& You can't have enough moons)

I have been very happy with my Talon Tactical holster for S&W 625. Order a bunch of moon clips and a moon clip holders and you can shoot this gun in IDPA ESR as well as IPSC Revolver Divison.

Not necessary for the intended purposes ... But they are good for practicing reloads with revo's.

Gift Ideas: 1. What impresses the guys that only shoot bottom feeders is how smooth you can be with your reloads. Ask for dozen or more snap caps (or make some dummy loads) so you can practice your reloads safely in the comfort of your own home with the speed loaders that Bubber mentioned (Do not do this with live ammo) 2. Check your holster and make sure it covers the trigger. Some of the Triple K holsters leave the trigger exposed. If yours is in that category, cheap but not so elegant solution involves duct tape and cardboard. (That will definitely get you through the first match, but deduct some of the style points you gained simply by showing up with a revo ) Or ask for an inexpensive Kydex holster for a GP100. 3. Ammo, Ammo and more Ammo (Loaded or Components) 4. $$$ to contribute to purchase of a reloading press and dies 5. One year membership to USPSA (Assuming that is the way you want to go) 6. One year membership to NRA (Many clubs also strongly encourage/require membership to participate in their events -- Besides, it is a good thing to do as a gun owner -- if you are already not a member)

And if money is tight, there are some deals on lightly used CZ75/85's out there. Also don't discount the Glock 17 or 3rd Gen S&W 9mm's. There are still good buys to be found if you keep your eyes open. These guns will all get you started in the right path.

Probably better to simply buy another glock than to buy a 34 top end. The difference between cost of a complete new upper and 2nd Glock can be pretty small. Besides you will eventually want a back-up gun. No matter how reliable Glocks can be, they are mechanical devices. Mechanical devices will eventually fail with use. Now if I can simply follow my own advice... stick to a single platform, I might advance past the 'C' class plateau.

It's a great place to start. The gun is incredibly durable. Magazines are inexpensive -- under $20 ea when you find them on sale. Holsters and Magazine pouches are readily available. There are plenty of inexpensive ways to accessorize it --better sights, true drop in triggers (for lighter pull), etc... From your comments, I am also assuming that you do not reload. If so, 9 mm is definitely the most cost effective way to get into USPSA/IPSC or IDPA, and you most likely will want to start in Production or SSP division. If at some point in the future, you decide that you want something different, you will not have too much problem finding a buyer for a G17. Lastly -- Do as mlmiller1 suggested and decide what game(s) you want to play first before making your purchases. Go to the respective websites or some of the posts on this forum, read up on the rules. Check out a few matches and ask questions. This will keep you from making a few expensive mistakes.

yes...the factory aluminum grips are production legal. and are very very thin if that is what you are trying to accomplish.. but I think they are still too heavy if trying to make the SP01 SSP legal.. like I posted earlier..Dennis Marschal is making grips to help make weight..but I do not know how thin they are..but they are supposed to be light. When I saw $20 grips... I had to ask. Dennis M grips are prob the way to go if I want to play in Idpa.