Jimk60

Do you have a drop of grease on the back of the station 1 locator? I have had more problem with 40 than any other pistol caliber with this issue. It is usually the locator movement as the brass slides forward.

All of my cases have been needle washed with Wash and Wax. Leaves a slick coating. Significantly reduced the 'sticking' on the powder funnel

If you do nothing more than add the MBF powder funnel to your setup, i.e. no MBF, you will be very glad. I had problems with some plated bullets that didn't match the profile in my seater very well. Actually had some seat crooked, most had a small dimple in the tip. Once I started using the MBF funnels, all issues, centering, crooked seating, dimples in tip, went away.

Well I guess I am lucky. I deprime all my brass with a Lee universal de-priming die prior to cleaning. Then when I load the empties, the case goes through the Dillon sizing die with the depriming pin in place. This gets all the pullbacks. But this is only about 1 in a thousand from the Universal de-primer.

You'll have to get on a list, pre-order or notification. It took me almost a month to get a 9MM funnel. http://www.doublealpha.biz/mr-bulletfeeder-powder-funnel Doesn't show n stock, but doesn't show out. Highest priced. You can also contact the inventer, Rick Koskela at http://www.mrbulletfeeder.biz/

And remember, since the MBF hangs from the side of the case feeder, it is very easy to move from press to press! Edited for really pour typing skils!

I've seen video of this bad boy being fired. It was un-believable!

When I started loading coated bullets, I had to open up my flaring to keep form scraping the coating off when seating. Here came the brash shavings when I crimped. (Lee FCD) When I added the MBF powder funnels, and adjusted the crimp accordingly, the shaving went away. I have not had an issue with plated or FMJ's. Oh, and I do wet clean with pins.

Well, everybody has their preference. I started reloading, again, 2 years ago after a 25 year hiatus. Happened across a complete setup in an XL650 that included the vibratory tumbler, corn cob, and walnut. First time cleaning cases, what a chore. Dirty dusty, complete pain in the wazoo. Outside pretty good, inside of case so-so. Discover wet tumbling, built my own tumbler, ran my first batch through. When I took them out of the tumbler it was like 'blinded' by the light and I heard angels sing. Never looked back. developed techniques that work for me, developed cleaning formula and additives works for me. I do tumble de-primed, have never had a stuck pin on over 10K cases in 4 calibers. It is a little more work, but with the volume I can clean vs the vibratory tumbler, I think overall time spent is about the same.

In Cabela's yesterday. Tons of powder. Prices still a little high. Noticed 700x at $19.95, right next to it was 800X for $25.95. Wondering why the difference when I noticed that the 700X was 14oz and the 800X was 16oz. So, you see a good price, check the weight. They appear to be using the 'Candy bar' pricing strategy. i.e. price stays the same, but product size is smaller.

Eureka! The Interwebs win again!

Consider this, with your volume, you will want to add a bullet feeder. Can't do that easily on the 550. You indicated you purchased the full package 650, I am assuming this means a casefeeder as well. The 650 was designed for a casefeeder, the 550 was not. The case feeder for the 550 is an 'Add on'. As the owner of a 650 with case and bullet feeders, my advice, which is worth exactly what you pay for it, is--- 1. If you have to sell one, sell the 550. 2. If you don't have to sell one, keep both. One possible use that the 550 would be suited for, assuming you kept the 650 for high volume, is load development. Dillon has a powder die part #16629, that has a set screw in it. The set screw allows you to attach the powder drop to the die without a powder measure. You then add the Dillon funnel, part # 16617. You can hand measure each powder load and drop into the funnel. Many of the BR long range shooters do this for rifle.

After seeing this posted in another thread, I tried it, and now go directly to the Dillon tubes. You do have to get the 'Feel' to know it is centered,

I pretty much go with boxes. 100 cnt Berry's Bullet boxes are $2.99 each at my local reloading store. Funny thing is that I have seen the same Berry's cases at gun shows for $5 each 5 for $20. The MTM ammo box with cases is not bad, may consider some for long term storage.

I purchased the Lite-Tech version from Amazon.com. $35 with shipping. Lite strip plus multi LED insert for tool head. Wanted one because I have added a bullet feeder and lost my powder check on the 650. Works like a champ. Although I felt that these light kits were a little pricey, they are a worthwhile addition. Was impressed by construction quality, it was much higher than my expectations.

Just ran across this thread. I have participated in quite a few threads across different forums on wet cleaning with pins. I built my own tumbler based on the Big Dawg design. If I had known about the FART, I would have gone that route, cost was about the same, but I did get the feeling of accomplishment to build my own. Why use Dawn? Dawn is a mostly pure detergent with no additives. It strips all oils waxes and dirt from the brass. Many auto detail shops will wash a car with Dawn to strip off all waxes and oils, prior to a deep hand wax job. Why use Lemi-Shine - it helps soften hard water, plus the citric acidic action helps in the shine process. You have to find what quantity works for you. My understanding for the FART tumbler is that you can go 1 to 1 on brass to pins. In my case I cannot do that. I use a ratio of 80% brass to pins by weight. I have also switched to the Armor All Wash and Wax with Carnuba. Fabulous clean and shine inside and out with the use of pins. PLUS, the wax acts as a dry lubricant for sizing and belling, Which is always an issue when using Dawn. The other benefit of AA Was and Wax, is that it helps prevent the brass from tarnishing. I have brass I cleaned a year ago that still looks like it was cleaned yesterday. One note of caution, I do not know the results of other Wash and Wax products, so can't comment on them. I do now the results of using a Wash and Shine, and it was less than spectacular. So whatever you choose to use, make sure it has WAX in the title. Anecdotal story, I decided to load up some 40 S&W last week. Hadn't loaded any in quite a while. Immediately noticed difficulty in sizing, and even more difficulty in belling (MBF Powder drop). Realized that these cases had been cleaned prior to my use of AA W&W. Took all 4 K cases and ran through tumbler, no pins. Ran each load about 1 hour. Rinsed, dried and started loading. Brass went into resizer with almost no resistance. Belling operation was smooth with a little friction, but nothing like before the AA W&W treatment. This is what works for me. As always YMMV.

Seems like most of the loaders on this site are certainly willing to use the best equipment they can afford to complete a task. I have used a VP for loading primer tubes since the first week I got my 650 installed (about 1.5 years) I used the peck method ONCE and determined there had to be another way. Enter the VP, been using it ever since. Saw video of PAL in action and here is what I came away with. PRO: 1. Excellent if not outstanding quality construction. Will last a life time. 2. Improved design to funnel the primers to the pickup tube. 3. Designed to be used with standard primer tubes, no special 'Fit and Twist' tubes needed. CON: 1. Price- listed in the US at $225 vs VP at $49.95. If the price were more like $125 or $150, it would be much more attractive. Otherwise I stick with the VP. Plus I would have to get PMD to make that fabulous stand available!

That's the AT-500 powder die, part # 16629. It is not for use with an auto powder measure. My understanding is that it will work on any Dillon press. Notice that is has a set screw. It is used to lock the powder drop tube and expander in place. A funnel goes on top. Allows for powder to be measured off press and hand dropped into the case. This is my understanding,someone please correct if I have misstated.

Read some of the writings on Bullseye shooting. http://www.bullseyepistol.com/cstomgun.htm First you remove all the mechanical issues you have control over, then work on the ones that YOU have to improve. I have been leaning towards an STI Trojan in 9MM. This would be used in Steel plates, IPSC, and IDPA. After looking into the improvements possible to an M&P by APEX Tactical, that decision may change. True, the Trojan is Single Stack class and the M&P is Limited, I believe that shooting Limited would be best for me at this point. If my shooting ability improves, then the Single Stack class with an STI 1911 is a potential. I figure about $700 to $750 to start with a fully modified M&P, based on what I have now, and what I would have to purchase, to reach a functioning, competitive M&P. To compete with an STI Trojan would run about $1400 after purchasing a new firearm, extra mags, mag holders etc.

I have found that standing at the beginning of a session is a requirement for me. I verify primer seating, powder weights, OAL and crimp. Once all is right I sit in the edge of my adjustable stool, feet on the floor, almost a standing position. My normal body movement as I pull the lever on the 650 puts me in a position to visually verify that all 5 positions on the shell plate are correct. As I push the lever back, and lower the ram, my normal body position is to move forward. I can visually check, powder level, a bullet was correctly oriented on the next case to be seated, the newl;ly seated bullet is good and ready to crimp, a new case dropped, good leverage to give that slight extra push to feel primer seat. Plus this position provides optimum leverage without straining in awkward seating positions. But like many other hobbies, ask 10 people haow they accomplish a task, and you will get 11 different answers.

I have seen an excellent fix for this problem, just spent 15 minutes looking and could not find. I will try to describe. As Sarge suggested, slide the metal tab over, plus, what the other fix did was slightly reshape the the tab from a rounded end to a slight ramp like shape. This helped push the case back up into the collator rather than hanging up on the edge of the Metal tab. I have not implemented his fix. I have very few of these hangups. When I do, it is because the collator is on high, I switch to low.

Same as Steve and RDA. No water, just RCBS separator. Spin about 25 times one direction, 25 times opposite direction, slowly. The only problem I have with pins left in cases is 9MM, they take just a little extra effort.

Since I added a bullet feeder, I no longer use the powder check. And I don't miss it. I look into each case, that may be an issue with 223 though. .Many reloaders on this sight, myself included have added micrometer powder adjustments from UniqueTech http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1231 A little pricey, but I Ioad 4 calibers and have 2 powder measures. By keeping records of settings, it is very simple to dial in the correct charge. I always struggled with the standard adjustment on the powder measures.. There is another adjuster available that I cannot remember the name of. It is not a true micrometer adjuster, but has very well marked graduations. In your case, it might do to have a 223 measure and a pistol measure, both with the micrometer adjustments. That way you could use 2 powder measures only instead of one for each conversion.

I may be trying the slide glide, nit sure yet. Currently use Mobil 1 for the ram. Synthetic grease for the zirks. I spary silicone on the Station one locator, the underside of the shell plate, and both sides of the primer wheel.. After all is dry I assemble. Problem with the Mobile 1 is it collects dirt, as it is supposed to do, and flows to the bottom of the press. I will reach under the ram, and come back with all this black oil on the back of my hand.