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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Echd

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    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 11/22/1990

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    Reidsville NC
  • Real Name
    Connor Strader

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  1. As a lurker who has been here more for the dillon and not for the Uspsa, if you aren't feeling it you'd be time and a headache ahead to just sell it. This isn't a massive forum, although there is a lot of good info here. Hosting should not be that expensive, and appropriately targeted ads would likely cover much of the overhead. Most forums that charge membership fees essentially just implement them as donations for members who want to support the site. $15 a month is crazy high, and if it's required to sell, the classifieds will die fast. If you just want to kill the c
  2. I've had a bullet tray for my 1050 laying around for months and finally was going to mount it. I realized as I was trying that I am missing the bolt that attaches the bracket to the case feeder support. Would anyone mind checking the thread pitch and length of the bolt? If it is common I will just pick one up at lowes or ace tomorrow.
  3. Unfortunately it comes out too high. I suppose in the long run it isn't that hard to segregate revolver brass so this isn't a big deal, but I will need to sort it by headstamp. I figured that would be the case but I was hoping I was missing something obvious. Thanks for the response.
  4. I was a bit torn on whether to put this in the 9/38 subforum or here, but I guess both make sense. I am still a bit new to my 1050 but I have had no issues with any cartridge (loading 223, 9mm, 40, and 357 mag) other than 38 special with mixed brass. I am finding extreme issues with priming, ranging from way high primers to super crushed primers. The worst offenders are PPU, Xtreme, and Aguila. When the primer system is set to operate perfectly for most normal brass (most of mine is Starline, federal, Remington, and winchester) it will crush primers in any of those first three bran
  5. I also love my 650! The most irritating thing to watch out for is the primer ski ramp. The 650 feeds a primer whether there is a case or not, and they will fall out afterwards if they weren't inserted. You can halt the autoadvance of the primer wheel by removing the plastic wedge that is on the frame near it. This is handy for making adjustments or fixing a misfeed, crushed case, or anything of the sort. Some guy on eBay makes an easily removed one, I just only leave one of the bolts in and pull it out if necessary. Tighten the shellplate appropriately and don't forget
  6. There was some concern that certain powder coatings could exacerbate barrel wear. So far as I know there is nothing truly empirical regarding it. There is one guy over at the 300 blackout forums who states that he burned a barrel in short time using powder coated bullets in harbor freight's black color. HF black was known to be a relatively poor candidate for powder coating as it required the use of a sprayer gun to apply it... that brand and color in particular did not apply well at all through the tumbling method many hobbyist bullet casters use. Some folks did some digging and on the mater
  7. The jbweld suggestion works well. I have used it for top punches for odd bullet shapes in lubesizers. That said the little ring the seater leaves probably won't hurt anything.
  8. I had a similar issue... for me, I added some weight and rigidity to my bench. That fixed that and my occasional primer flipping problem. Failing that, try a die with a wider bevel.
  9. While not as useful for gaming, are the 986 series as plagued by problems as the 929s? I really would like one or the other, but man, all this mess about the 929s has me a little worried!
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