Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Echd

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 11/22/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Reidsville NC
  • Real Name
    Connor Strader

Recent Profile Visitors

638 profile views
  1. I've had a bullet tray for my 1050 laying around for months and finally was going to mount it. I realized as I was trying that I am missing the bolt that attaches the bracket to the case feeder support. Would anyone mind checking the thread pitch and length of the bolt? If it is common I will just pick one up at lowes or ace tomorrow.
  2. Unfortunately it comes out too high. I suppose in the long run it isn't that hard to segregate revolver brass so this isn't a big deal, but I will need to sort it by headstamp. I figured that would be the case but I was hoping I was missing something obvious. Thanks for the response.
  3. I was a bit torn on whether to put this in the 9/38 subforum or here, but I guess both make sense. I am still a bit new to my 1050 but I have had no issues with any cartridge (loading 223, 9mm, 40, and 357 mag) other than 38 special with mixed brass. I am finding extreme issues with priming, ranging from way high primers to super crushed primers. The worst offenders are PPU, Xtreme, and Aguila. When the primer system is set to operate perfectly for most normal brass (most of mine is Starline, federal, Remington, and winchester) it will crush primers in any of those first three brands horribly. As in, crushes it so hard that you can see the indentation of the anvil clearly through the primer's back side. It just seems very odd to me that I am having such pronounced issues with just one cartridge, when most of my other loading for my small pistol cartridges is mixed headstamp brass. Can anyone else confirm or deny issues loading mixed 38s with aguila, ppu, or xtreme? The obvious solution is to sort the brass, but am I maybe missing a critical step here due to unfamiliarity with the 1050? I haven't tried making huge adjustments to the swage rod because it doesn't seem like it should matter that much in this case, as the problem brands are all uncrimped commercial. As it is set now it makes a slight bevel on the ppu primer pockets. I am using federal gmm primers.
  4. I also love my 650! The most irritating thing to watch out for is the primer ski ramp. The 650 feeds a primer whether there is a case or not, and they will fall out afterwards if they weren't inserted. You can halt the autoadvance of the primer wheel by removing the plastic wedge that is on the frame near it. This is handy for making adjustments or fixing a misfeed, crushed case, or anything of the sort. Some guy on eBay makes an easily removed one, I just only leave one of the bolts in and pull it out if necessary. Tighten the shellplate appropriately and don't forget the set screw on the ram. For some cartridges you can experience slight difficulty feeding from the case feeder- 40 s&w was my biggest culprit. Brass would "bounce" when landing and cause some unusual feed situations. A little white lithium grease under the station 1 locator fixed that. Just a touch is sufficient. If you have a lot of cartridges you want to reload cross reference with the conversion kit chart. If you have a handful of popular conversions you may have many of the parts for another conversion. Buy a spare toolhead for depriming and/or case peep. When loading assorted brass a fast pass through with only the resize or a universal decap die can catch bad brass, and will help you catch those annoying 40s that hide in 45s, or 9s in 40s. It's a lot better to do a preliminary sort than have to fix it during a production run. If you are using a die that is too short or has to be adjusted down far (a lot of lee dies have this issue) you can put the lock ring on the bottom of the toolhead. For your casefeeder hornady plates work the same, are interchangeable, and cost slightly less. Unless something has changed anyway. Most of the upgrade kits don't seem to offer much that proper setup won't do anyway. I installed the thrust bearing and roller bearing kit you see on eBay and I can't tell much if any difference. Not to say some dont work but they wont revolutionize loading for you. A spare parts kit is not a bad idea, but the parts I was most likely to break are part 18086, a delrin shoulder that is part of the powder measure system. I think I'm just stupid but over about 8 years with my 650 I've broken 3 or 4 of them.
  5. I couldn't seem to get anyone from Bowen on the phone when I tried the past couple of weeks (online reviews warning of massive backlogs for sight orders made me want to speak to them about back orders and lead times), and revolver supply company reached out to me on this forum to tell me more about the LPA sights. As such I ordered a set from them and installed them today. They certainly seem high quality and shipping was very fast.. I will take them out for something other than dryfire practice this weekend. That said, next time I see a set of bowens go up for sale somewhere I will try and grab them fast.
  6. I would like to try a new type of sights on my 5 inch 327. I did not particularly care for the original factory ones (an odd front dot with diamond wedge rear pairing). I got a set of advantage tactical pyramid sights, which while very interesting and workable, just seem a bit odd to me. I am very interested in LPA's front and rear fiber optics, but $170 or so is steep. They seem well loved though. Any popular suggestions out there?
  7. I love shooting my 500 (for a little while, at least) but I'd love to know average round counts before one has the potential to have these sorts of issues. I know battlefield Las Vegas, a business that rents out guns in LV, says that after having some similar rapid, unplanned disassembled they began replacing barrels every 6 months or so on the 500s. I'd wager the vast majority of 500s out there probably have yet to crack a hundred rounds. I don't load mine to factory full power status often and I still put it down after 25-30 rounds.
  8. Certainly, I changed to a mihec 180gr grooveless hp mold. With my not very precise wheel weight mixture this dropped around 181 gr as an HP and if memory serves a touch over 190 as a solid. This profile feeds perfectly in my MBF. I shoot 4.2 gr titegroup in practically all my 40 loads. I do not have my chrono data handy at the moment. I will fully admit of late I have been buying xtreme plated bullets though because it has been entirely too hot to cast or sit out in the garage hitek-ing bullets. I used to think it a travesty to buy a bullet I could cast but I am weakening. Don't let me talk you out of the lee 175 though, it was a very reliable and accurate bullet for me and I shot probably several thousand when my dept changed to a 40s&w for familiarization. The only complaint I had was the difficulty with my mr bullet feeder, and if one was willing to relieve some of the plastic in one of the drop tubes (the part leading to the spring tube) you could probably make it work without issue. I have only run into that issue with the lee 401 175 and a few rather esoteric 357 projectiles like the 361627. These pictures are a bit too large to upload here so here are some images of the projectiles in question- the lee powder coated in blue, the mihec in gold hitek. Not sure if this site uses bbcode or what so you will have to follow the links (I don't post here enough to be familiar with the site and mostly creep for dillon and reloading info... I don't have the time to compete so I don't feel like I add much to most discussions) http://imgur.com/lv6awVD http://imgur.com/qdLBE2Y Additionally NOE molds offers a similar profile but I have not tried it. If production were my main goal I would buy a 6 or 8 cavity mihec aluminum mold with no lube grooves and make it rain bullets, then powder coat them. That would be the minimum time investment and give you a fairly short and squat bullet not at all unlike a plated RN. I own brass, iron, and aluminum molds and do not feel that aluminum is the lesser material. All mold materials have pros and cons, aluminum probably has the most pros to be honest. It can't rust meaningfully, it weighs less (throw an 8-10 cav steel mold around for a while or even a 4-6 cav brass and tell me you aren't tired), and it's typically less expensive, and you can perform minor modifications more easily. Normal mold usage will not damage a bullet mold of any material type negatively within any sort of reasonable or realistic schedule of use. I feel that brass looks great and the ease of machining over iron and ability to use cramer style HP pins gives it some advantages, but for molds i actually use the most, i prefer aluminum > iron > brass. Also my very most important bit of advice would be to slug your barrel... many match grade tubes are "tighter" than more pedestrian ones may be. I know I have seen 0.356" dia bullets lead in guns that turned out to be 0.355" although other factors may have contributed. Conventional cast bullet loading data says fat is better but with the advent of coated bullets I am not so sure that is universally true. Most all my coated 40s get sized to 0.401" whereas I sized conventionally lubricated and tumble lubricated bullets to 0.402" or even fatter without issue.
  9. The Lee bullets feed great (in tight chambers) but they fed horribly in my Mr. Bullet feeder. They are one of the few designs that would fall in and get stuck sideways. This was annoying to dislodge and required stopping the press and sometimes emptying the collator. If you do not use a bullet collator I don't see it as a problem and it is an excellent bullet, but I personally changed to a different profile.
  10. A red laser is a no go in almost any daylight. Close in you can pick it out, but get more than 10 yards away and it's hard or impossible. A green laser is visible during the day but on a bright day it's still very hard to pick out past 15 yards or so. Definitely not faster than an optic... In most situations. Now, low light or no light? It's pretty cool! I love taking a green laser out on a foggy night and seeing a star wars death beam for miles.
  11. It is 100% with both but when I try it the large plate is a bit faster. Unless I was out running the feeder (unlikely) it'seems not a problem either way.
  12. It always amazes me that people post help requests without pictures. I'd suggest taking it apart and cleaning. Sounds like something got where it wasn't suppose to. There is nothing clearly visible. Any damage must be very slight. I was more curious if the case arm spring was a known wear part or something. It seems to be working mostly now. I am hoping repeated manipulations will correct it. I also used some lithium grease on the case feeder arm and surrounding area to see if it helps with the sticking.
  13. Put some grease under the ramp to dampen the landing and they'll stop bouncingI've tried everything from a light greasing to packing it full. I still have to persuade 2-3 per 100 to go in properly. 40 is the only cartridge that does this.
  14. I am guessing that is the case... last night I lightly sanded all points of contact and it seems mostly corrected.
  • Create New...