Jimk60

If you are wet cleaning brass yourself, try using Armor All Wash and Wax with Carnuba wax instead of Dawn. It leaves a dry slick coating inside and outside the case. It also has a side benefit of keeping your cases shiny, longer, and severely reduces tarnishing over time. My tumbler holds 1.5 gallons. I use 10 lbs pins, no more than 8 lbs of brass, and fill with water. I add 2 tbs of AA, and 1 tbs of Lemishine Booster. Dawn, or similar dish washing liquids strip everything off of whatever you are washing. You must use a case lube. I have found that using the AA permits me to load on my 650 without any additional lube.

That is what I first thought, that they came with the that way. Once I noticed the ring, which is very difficult to see because of light reflections off of the bullet, I started looking at every bullet as I got ready to seat it. I loaded 10 or so and when I checked the completed rounds, over half had the dimple. So I am pretty sure they were not there prior to loading into the case. As FTDMFR stated, I don't believe the Dillon seater insert is a good match for the Xtreme round nose. I think that it actually seats with direct contact on the tip rather than the sides. I have loaded a couple of thousand of the Xtreme hollow points without any problems.

All of the 9 mm cases used where wet cleaned with dish washing detergent. Leaves them excruciating clean. I had to use one-shot when sizing. I have switched to AA Wash and Wax, I have only loaded .45 ACP and 9mm HP with these cases and one-shot was not needed. As of yet, I have not loaded the round nose 9 in the wash and wax cleaned cases. I will see if that alleviates the problem before adding the dry tumbling to the process.

I have been considering using a different seating die. I will check them out. Thanks everyone for all the advise.

Saw this over at The Firing Line http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564919 About half way down the page. Don't know if this was the one FlightMurse was talking about or not. I have seen several different DIY ideas in the referenced thread. Seems like a good DIY solution to your design problem.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. It is on the tip of the bullit. I crimp with a Lee FCD, not the seating die, which is Dillon. I'm sure brass thickness plays a roll because it doesn't happen on all rounds. The other thing is that sometimes the ring is off center and/or causes the tip to slightly extend, making the OAL a couple thousands longer. This has not been an issue in and of itself. I believe that some of the bullets actually seated slightly crooked, but the FCD corrected the problem. Before the FCD, and before I noticed the ring at the tip, I was having quite a few jams, hence the FCD which solved that problem. The next time I load these bullets, I will try to open up the belling a little more. But I have to be careful, because if the belling gets too large, I'll start getting brass shavings around the FCD. I agree that the concentric ring should not effect accuracy at pistol distances, but the off center ring, I believe would cause flyers.

Heck of an idea. Will give it some thought.

Wanted to know if anyone else is having, or had this problem, and what they did to correct it. When I load X-treme 9mm 124 gr round nose on my XL650 with a Dillon seating die, about 80% of the rounds end up with a ring impression on the top of the bullet. The round nose seating insert has a hole in it that is apparently causing this issue. I know it affects accuracy to some degree. I use these to shoot steel, and although I'm not a great shot, I was miserably bad with the round nose bullets with the circle impression on the tip. Any ideas?

The only thing worse than dropping a small part and not being able to find it, is to drop a small part, finding it, and not knowing where it goes! BTDT

What Dillon said above is important, that you limit the wobble in the shell holder. It will also make the OAL more consistent. A simple trick to stop the shell plate from 'snapping' is to rest your finger on the shell plate as it rotates. Once you learn how much pressure to apply as the shell plate rotates, your powder spill will be zero.

I have seen it stated that 40 works with the small casefeed plate, and 9 works with the large casefeed plate. In my experience, the 40 had jamming problems in the 9 plate, serious enough to make me remove all the brass and replace with the large pistol plate. Same issue with 9. Multiple jams in 9mm when using the large pistol plate. That is my experience. YMMV

Also verify that the black block is drawing back far enough on the down stroke so that the case lands on the open part of the station one locator. Also verify that you are completing the down stroke so that the shell plate rises to the top of the frame. Nothing like short stroking to create problems.

I use the Dillon dies because they came with the used 650 that I purchased at a great price. I did add the Lee FCD for the crimp die for all 3 pistol calibers. It solved chambering problems in 9mm and 45 ACP.

Thanks! I need to try the armor all wash and wax. Keep the qty at 2 parts AA to 1 part Lemishine. This is what has worked best for me. My tumbler holds 1.5 gallons of water and 10 lbs of pins.

The other question is what do you mean by 'not indexing"? 1. Do you pull the lever, and everything is locked up, i.e. nothing moves? Or. 2. Do you pull the handle and it goes through its movement, raising the ram etc, but the shell plate does not advance? If #1 above, then glynnm45 is spot on in his diagnoses. If #2, with the shell plate off, operate the handle, and check the the shell plate indexing pawl (Part #18 on page 52) is above the platform and progresses normally. Note in the drawing on page 52 that the pawl is mounted on a spring and inserted into #20 ring indexer. The flat part of the pawl should be facing left, the direction the shell plate advances. The slanted part should be on the right side, allowing it the rotate back into position for the next advancement. As glynnm45 stated, check the ring indexer to make sure it is not broken. I broke one a few weeks ago and was getting inconsistent or no advance of the shell plate. Good luck.

Slow and steady has worked for me. Bent primers, sideways primers, and upside down. I never re-use though.

+1 I haven't seen a gravitational dog since the Jetson's. Seriously though, I think I ma going to give the angle brackets and magnetic bin a try. Sounds cheap and workable.

If you are wet washing your own brass with SS try using Armor All Wash and Wax(with Carnuba wax) instead of Dawn. Leaves a slick coating that really aids in all aspects of progressive loading. Also prevents the brass from tarnishing. It will remain clean and shiny for a long time. Dawn strips everything from the brass, including all oils and lubricants. Leaving it completely clean. You must then you a spray lube before reloading. Armor All W&W obviates the need for spray lube. This is what works for me. YMMV

The problem I had with brass feeding hangups was due to movement of the shell guide during the feed process. This was alleviated by putting a dab of grease on the bottom of the feed guide. The grease holds it in place and stops the movement when a casing is being pushed into the shell plate. For me the problem is solved.

Try "or Lyman's dies a SHOT"

I'll add my $6.50 1. Don't have, just use lube. What I've read here, I don't think would use it. 2. Low mass detent ball and spring. Have it, it did improve the snap, but did not stop it. 3. Bearing kit. Have it, love it. The secret is to get the proper tension on the shell plate. Adjust so that there is very little or no wobble on the shellplate, but it still turns with just a little resistance. EDIT: It is also important that your ring indexer, part 20 on page 52, operates correctly with part 18, indexer block, page 48. If you look under the shell plate on the left side as you operate the press, you will see how it works. As the ring indexer moves the shell plate forward, there is an incline that operates against the indexer block. The ring indexer should reach the end of its travel at the same time the the shell plat indexes on the index ball. If adjusted correctly, this will reduce shell plate snap as much as the low-mass detent ball. 4. Ergonomic roller handle. Don't have. may get one just because of the positive reports in this thread, as I usually stand to load, but will usually sit on tall stool for de-priming only. 5. Spent primer shoot. Designed my own. Used aluminum tube compression fitting made to use with plastic tubing. Fitted up under the existing fitting, tightened, add friction fit tube, ran tube through bench into jar. Works perfectly. 6. Tool head lights. Don't have, looking for good price performance locally. Based on this thread, will try Northern Tool today.

Don't know where you are located, but I found these 3 in about 30 seconds. The last one listed s actually a pretty good deal. http://www.armslist.com/posts/4154958/portland-oregon-reloading-for-sale--dillon-super-1050-automated-reloading-press-in-9mm---3500 http://www.armslist.com/posts/4324468/tampa-reloading-for-sale--dillon-super-1050- http://www.armslist.com/posts/4309830/florida-reloading-for-sale-trade--dillon-1050-loader-with-mr--bulletfeeder

I am wondering the same myself. It seems to be much easier to read, good contrast between markings and handle. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prairie-Dog-6-120-Perfect-Powder-Flow-Control-for-Dillon-Powder-Bars-/251921938550

I have the thrust bearing and washer upgrade. What it gave me was the ability to lock the the shell holder down to the point that when pressing down on the edge, there was almost no rocking movement. But it still rotated on each pull with very little drag or friction. Improved primer seating, plus more consistent bullet seating depth and crimp. O.A.L is much more consistent than it was before adding the bearing kit. The shell carrier jerk that would occasionally spill powder is non-existent. Rotation is very smooth.

One problem I ran into was the markings on the micrometer. They are vague enough as it is and can be tough to read. The instruction state that you should align the main index line at about 9 oclock on the 650. (read it from the left). It is very difficult to read the mark on the 650 when aligned at 9 PM. I would have liked to have set mine at about 10 or 10:30, so that I had a better view of the main index mark. Dry fit and check the location on your powder bar, and see which location is easier to read. Even though tough to read on the 650, for me, I do love the micrometer. It is so much easier to adjust .1 gr than the stock adjustment. Plus the repeatability is great.