Bigsampson

I would suggest reading one of the excellent break in procedures such as Brazos. The tight tolerances cause the gun to really get tight when the gun gets hotter. At 250 or 300 rounds, your gun is just starting out. Myself and a friend bought edges at the same time not too long ago. I shot 250 rounds an evening for the first week and mine is superb. He tried to just shoot matches until it broke in. He had allot of frustration until he backed up and started the "shoot it hot" but not too hot program below. http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0705.htm I think that once you have about 1000 rounds down the tube you will see the guns functioning fine.

Those do look nice.

Try a Gibbz Arms side charger. Awesome upper. Non recipricating. I have one on my match rifle and love it. Very high quality http://www.gibbzarms.com

That boat is allot harder than it looks.

+1 On the Stelock. Love it.

I just got a Blade tech WRS for my new Edge. Works ok. Anybody got any mods to make the hood trigger mech work faster/easier?

While I do think JP makes some fine gear. With all the quality parts and assemblies available, I think you limit yourself by sticking just with JP. Gibbz Side Charger upper, I really like this upper. Non reciprocating and I think more ergonomic. Quinten Defense Navy Billet lower. Hyperfyre 24c AP customs low mass bolt Jp captured spring JP Heat Sink (probably overkill and not in pictures) JP 18 inch light weight barrel JP low profile adjustable gas BCM KMR 15 inch hand guard JP comp Warne SKEL mount BAD Lever Vortex Razor JM reticle 1x6 (I agree, it is a brick, but imo, the best thing going.) Oversize mag release. Ace Stock

Agreed, I would whether required or not. There is no competitive advantage to not flipping that switch. But a stray finger could get you an AD if you don't

The main issue here is was the weapon under the control of the shooter and safe. In this scenario, the gun was absolutely under your control as you specifically put it in place in a safe manner so you could get up safely and require the firearm prior to moving to another position. Any RO that had a problem with this is missing the point.

Don't try to recreate the wheel. Watch the good and experienced shooters and learn. Don't try to emulate them until you start developing the skills. Watch what equipment they use and how they use it. Again, don't jump in and just buy it because they have it. See if you can borrow or try it out. Otherwise you will end up with a closet full of equipment that you don't use. There are several different reasons why people shoot three gun. But, it basically boils down to one thing. It is fun. Don't get wrapped up in being too competitive too fast, just focus on continual improvement. And, ask lots of questions. But most of all, find a way to have fun, even when things don't go perfect.

I trimmed my pin a tad short, mixed up some JB weld, counter sunk it just a tad and filled in the JB weld. Then blended it in. Can't really see it without looking and the JB weld will punch out easily if I need to remove the roll pin.

I have a couple of CMC flats and one curved. Like them all. Lean towards the flat for competition. Have had a Hyperfire 24c for about two months now. I like it allot as well. That being said, for the money, especially a newer shooter is probably better off with the CMC flat trigger. Better value.

For folks having the issue where the round feeds into the receiver and onto the lifter, but does not get brought up into the action. Two easy and cheap things. First, replace your stock mag tube spring with a Nordic. If you have and that one is failing, replace it every few months. What is happening is the shell is not going back into the receiver with enough force to cause the bolt release to allow the action to fully cycle. This spring needs to be healthy for the gun to cycle consistsntly. Also, if you are practicing loading allot, you will wear it out faster. I keep two or three in my bag so I am never short at a major match. Second, not as critical, get an extra mag tube follower and put it on the top of the spring inside the tube. What this does is gives the spring good surfaces on both ends so it doesn't bind up as it rotates while shells are fed in, or are cycled out. Both are cheap and easy fixes. Good luck

Placed an order 3/3/14. No goods, no responses to phones or emails. Beware of this vendor.