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I say if it works for you stick with it. However, I have seen many really talented open shooters try to only use the front sight on steel and crash and burn many times. I sure as heck would not want to take only a front sight to a match with steel out to 25 yards.

Yep, when doing dry fire reloads I have 8 dummy rounds in the mags. The mag I'm dropping in the second video is void of spring and follower but is weighted to simulate a full mag. I mostly use it for my other dry fire drills to simulate the feel of a loaded gun. Tim

Thanks. I have noticed the slight lean toward the gun when reaching for the mag and of course this does not exist when I'm shooting Limited. It is really tough not to do it when you go hard for the mag and I hesitated to try to change it figuring it was natural given the mag position. However I will address it again tomorrow. BTW, the second video does the weighted mag thing.

Okay, so put down one more SS and one more Prod for Sat. I'll put my app in the mail tomorrow.

Here is where I would go to buy a factory gun. http://stiguns.com/guns/Sentry/Sentry.php

Thanks Flex and Steel. I have been practicing the moving and reloading thing. But I have not done much work at all around the belt. I will add that to my routine. And Corey I'm just an A class anyway. You get to worry about all the big fish.

I know I have bigger fish to fry other than the reload. But I'm stuck with dry fire only for the next couple of weeks and I'm trying to make progress where I can. My thinking on this is since so often when doing a reload on a stage, even when moving, there are targets ready to shoot before my reload is done. So, if I could shave a tenth or two in those situations I could gain 10-20 points at a 10 stage match just on that one thing. The only thing I can see is the hesitation the last inch or so before I slam it home (I guess some call that the Burkett reload?). This doesn't really exist in limited but when I try to tweak that I get too many crash and burn reloads. Can this be honed away?

Trying to shave off a tenth of two. I'm hoping some folks can see something and give me a lightbulb moment.

You could mill a little out from the grips. Do you have a TI hammer strut and cap? not that its going to save much but every little bit. Ambi safeties? Use oil as a lube or grease? How close are you? I'm right on 43oz right now. I would like to loose .6oz just for a cushion. Craig at mil-tac said he is going to help me out with the grips (not sure how much weight he can take off of the G-10 grips, we'll see). I really like my grips and not crazy about loosing the weight in the front of the gun either. So it's kinda a rock and a hard place deal.

Update: So the aluminum FLGR is .9oz lighter than my steel one. Also the G-10 (mil-tac) grips are oddly enough .9oz heavier than the standard wood grips I have. So, I can go lighter grips or lighter guide rod or both. What say ye??????

The 773 has a low profile closed front and the 771 is higher but has a spit opening at the front.

The Briley one will be enough to bring you in under 43. I don't have a postal scale but its about the weight of a GI steel rod I think. Thanks Corey, I will have to order one I guess. No problem boss. Here is a post I made a little while back with my mods to give you an idea. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97304 Thanks man. My problem is that this frame started out as a SS long dust cover, and Derek cut it, and made a rail out of it. He did his usual great job but it is still a good bit of metal out there. I've cut about all I can from the frame under the grips. The problem started when I changed to the Dawson magwell. It added about 2oz to the gun since I had an all aluminum S&A on there before. Hopefully the Briley will get me to a comfortable weight.

The Briley one will be enough to bring you in under 43. I don't have a postal scale but its about the weight of a GI steel rod I think. Thanks Corey, I will have to order one I guess.

So, with my wilson mags I'm at 42.7 and with my Tripp mags I'm at 43.1. I use both mags and prefer the tripps so I need to get lighter. Does anyone know the weight difference between the steel full length guide rod and the aluminum full length guide rod???

I think the mags are likely the prob. I'm really loving my tripp 10mm mags. They are rock solid!! BTW here is that pic I mentioned.

Also, the last 1/4 inch thing could be a tight barrel fit and will go away with more rounds down range.

The vertical flip is usually a problem with the recoil spring being too light and the slide is outrunning the mags. Or the mag springs are too weak and again the slide is outrunning the mag. Also, not that you did, but if you lube your mag for what ever reason the round can come out due to inertia, they come out during recoil and not from the slide stripping off the round and resulst is the vertical round deal. This also can happen if the mag spring are too light. It's a strange malfunction but it does happen. Somewhere on here I posted a pic of it happening. Not going into battery the last 1/4 inch can be a chamber that has debris in it, or a really tight chamber. Or the extractor that is too tight can also cause it. (Taking for granted the ammo is fine) The slide locking back too early could be you accidently bumping the slide stop. I have seen rounds as they come up sometimes bump the slide stop too. You might want to check how close the rounds are to the slide stop. I could be that some material will need taken off the slide stop. That is all I can think of right now. I'm sure many others will chime it with great ideas. Tim

You could try the red, maybe it will hold for you. My smith pinned mine but the screw kept working out, so I red loctited it and it would still work loose. I ended up having to put a novak dove tail sight in it to fix it.

This is just a great idea particularly when Dry firing but I do it every time I load too. Why put twice the wear on your hammer sear relationship.

Really? If you pin your trigger and rack your slide to load a round while I am the RO you will be DQ'ed. 10.5.9. Draw the gun, pin the trigger, rack the slide, release the trigger. put in a mag, chamber a round +1 I pin the trigger pull back the hammer, release the trigger let the hammer down on the sear. Then put the mag in and rack the slide.

Here is a cool link that you can study. Doing the pinning thing just causes less wear on the hammer sear relationship. http://www.m1911.org/loader.swf

I've done it for years. This is not a DQ. Not even Close. All you are doing by pinning the trigger while cocking the hammer is preventing the sear from dragging across the hammer hooks.

Pinning the trigger back while cocking the gun by using the slide or just the hammer will help the trigger job last longer. It is a good habit to get in for competition trigger jobs.

A gram is a gram is a gram. If you check your gun's weight on a properly zero'd scale you should be able to go at 42.9 and feel confident. FWIW, since I didn't have a scale handy that would weigh that much, I had a local narc stop by and we weighed the gun on his portable electronic scale. Zero'd it with a test weight, and it showed 42.7. At Barry, it weighed 42.7. Of course, my gun probably tests positive for methamphetamine residue now, but they don't check for that at the SSN. BB That's funny. I was just worried about scale inconstancies. Lord knows I've seen some whacky things with chronos.

Well, I've decided to go this year since it has been on my list of matches to go to for the past couple of years. Can any of you tell me what they use to weigh your gun at the nats? I want to be sure to be under the 43oz limit. I'm wanting to change this aluminum S&A magwell to a Dawson Ice, but I'm afraid since they only offer a steel MSH that I might get too heavy. I'm at 41oz now but I'm using a digital trigger pull gauge. Thanks, Tim