peterthefish

I call "BS" on the factory six month lead time, I ordered mine in Late Devember 2013, checked with my dealer last week, he placed his order at the pre Shot Show meeting and still does not know when it will show up.These will be 'Allocated' for quite some time. While S&W will make them available to distributors based on their production schedules, the distributors choose how they will 'allocate' the extremely limited supply of a high demand item. The distributors generally will make these items (ie the 929) available to dealers who agree to buy a large amount of other stock (maybe a package of $25k of other S&W products) or have a history of doing a large volume of business with that distributor. Most of S&Ws sales are to a couple distributors, hence the limited availability.My local smaller LGS has 627 PCs on order with all their distributors and haven't seen one in over a year. Another local store that stocks literally hundreds of S&Ws has them in stock at all times, but only got ONE 929o out of the recent run. You're pretty unlikely to see that order filled by a smaller LGS that's not a stocking S&W dealer anytime in the near future. S&W also seems to be cutting the volume of PC revolvers going out the door to boost demand, which helps their retail partners get higher prices. If you're interested in seeing where things stand, Davidsons is a good channel. They'll show if a gun is Allocated or available for general order. If you sign up for an alert when they get guns in stock, you'll get an email when they hit distributors (Davidsons will get some). If it's an allocated gun, they'll show out of stock and you won't be able to order it, but you can be assured they'll start to hit retail stores in 7-10 days, so start checking GB. That got me a 929 for $1125 over a month ago. I guess the overall thing to remember is that your store doesn't order from S&W, they order from a distributor, and it's not first come first serve. And even if S&W is 6 months back logged to distributors, your store may not get in line for over a year.

That's pretty light porting - I don't think you'll notice a big difference going lighter bullet / slower powder. I have a 6 hole LoneWolf barrel. My 147 minor loads feel about the same as my 100 Gr Berrys HBRN at 1250 - 1300 FPS (6.3 GR power pistol) but leave a much smaller fireball. It's probably worth working up some 115 or 124 loads and seeing if it's worth going further than that.

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I was initially worried about this as some grades of stainless are prone to rusting. However, I have never dried them and no rust a year later. I separate them from my brass with a media separator, drain the dirty water, rinse the pins once if I'm feeling ambitious, then toss them back in the tumbler to wait for the next load.

I know for a fact it will fire 9mm loads loaded into .380 cases (at least sometimes)!!!

I'm starting to see powder in stock at local stores at about $20 / lb. Grabbed some N310, 231, and WAC last week. Titegroup was available. I probably already mentioned them on this thread, but you can try D&L in RI (401-738-1889). They don't show current stock online but they do ship and have reasonable prices. If you're looking for AutoComp or Titegroup they've probably got it. CCI primers at 25/K.

Even kygunco is looking for $1,000 for a 627 PC, and good luck finding one in stock. A year or two ago, or maybe down the road you'll see $900 again, but not short term. I think the PC is worth the cost difference over the Pro. The extra inch of sight radius makes a difference. Lately PC triggers are not much if any better than any assembly line trigger so there's not much value there. But only you can say if it's worthwhile for you.

Can't go wrong with a 627 PC. You can shoot heavy magnum loads or 38 Short Colts for quick reloads and minor PF. I think anything under $1,100 is a good price. Bear in mind that Smith seems to release their PC guns in periodic production runs. Once a run of a certain model hits distributors you'll find them at decent prices on Gunbroker , etc... As that run dries up prices will go up and they'll get harder to find. Patience will pay off.

I've got a similar USB power pack and don't leave home without it.

I'm space limited so I have the IF quick change mount and use it to swap between a T7, LNL AP, and a vice. There is no flex at all in the mount, and the wall plate easily holds my T7 and LNL when not in use. I started with a T7 on a standard IF mount. Can't go wrong with anything they make IMO.

Both of my Gen 4s did (a 34 & 35). They're sitting in bin in the basement somewhere.

When I first started out, I was shooting 4.0 of titegroup in 38 special. When you get to the end of a 32 round course, the cylinder and barrel are burning hot... Went to Clays in Long Colt, its no comparison... I'll be working up a load with N320 this Winter now that powder supply is somewhat back to normal. Power Pistol is all I had enough of to get me though the summer, and barely at that. I was loading about a lb a week through July and August!

My production load (147s over Power Pistol) are also about 50 FPS slower out of my 929 than my 5" autos. Shot a falling steel match this weekend - after about 40 rounds the cylinder is HOT - much worse than the same count with my 627 and the same load in 38 SC brass. Will be bringing a cooler next time.

One of the basics of reloading is that you need more powder for a lighter bullet to maintain same firearm function. I'd find a book load for what you're looking to load so you get the right OAL as well. .380 is a small case lower pressure round and small errors in OAL and powder charge can put you over pressure quickly.

Sandbagging like posting detected.

It may not include free atmospheric O2, but oxygen atoms make up part of all gunpowder compounds. So I would say it does in fact contain oxygen, per se.

I'll put mine on the trigger guage in the AM.

Troubleshooting is fault isolation by systematic means. That a gun is dirty in this case has nothing to do with the trigger pull. Dirt / debris adds friction and hides other potential issues. If you're troubleshooting a gun (or many other mechanical issues) cleaning may resolve the issue or make apparent other causes (ie cracks in parts, etc...). The fact that in your opinion that's not systematic means very little.

This says it all. Environmental oxygen only speeds / enhances combustion when it is the oxidizing agent. If gunpowder lacked sufficient oxygen for complete combustion then large loads (think a .223) would simply fizzle once they exhausted the available environmental oxygen.In fact, I just looked up the Nitroglycerin decomposition reaction - O2 is actually a byproduct. Then again, I like experiments, so....

Promo is identical to Red Dot but lacks the consistent density that one always (except with Promo) sees in Canister Grade powders. I guess it also lacks the red dots. For shotgun shooters the fact the volume for a given charge weight varies lot to lot means checking which bushing throws the right charge weight with every jug / lot as it will vary. For handgun shooters this means you will need to readjust your powder die lot to lot. This is why they don't sell 1 pounders. You will find ample Red Dot data in older Alliant manuals. If you need some PM and I will email them. And, if you're smart enough to not trust advice from some stranger on the internet, Alliant will verify the above

Get Kuhnhausen's S&W Revolver shop manual. Some good lubrication and light stoning on the rebound and perhaps DA sear release face (and any other points you can see the hammer dragging on) should let you get away with a lighter rebound spring - 15# is probably a good starting point. It should already have a Wolf reduced power mainspring so the rebound spring is all you really have room to futz with to maintain reliability w CCIs.

I use micrometer seating and powder dies on my Hornady LNL. Different press, same principle. In my reloading book I just mark the micro setting for each load (different powder, projectile, etc) and dial it up when changing loads. Never had an issue and it makes it feasible to do small runs. In fact, a powder micro makes working up loads almost as fast as regular loading. Only issue I've had is that there's a set screw on the Hornady Micros that lets you adjust / set the scale properly. Just had one come loose - now need to add 7 to all my loads! Probably worth loctiting that screw once set if the Dillons have something similar.

Not even close. The cost or 380 makes it a great candidate. Use the right powder (nothing too fluffy) and it's easy - as far as projectile size I use 380 bullets for some of my 9mm loads. Go for it!

I have two Zev ultimates - both have the same type of 'cutout' where it engages the FPB, so I don't think that's the problem.

I agree. But OP is describing abnormal function. A good cleaning and lubrication is the most logical place to start with diagnosing the issue.