ddc

Ok but you can't get scored 6-5-4 AND get all the good looking women. You have to choose one or the other.

Rowdy, Just read on Sigtalk that Armory Craft is apparently setting up to do brass grips.

@Cuzwhere did all the powder go? 125 rounds is a lot of powder.... just sayin...

That might work; I've never tried it though. My vote would be to bite the bullet and pull the tool head off completely, completely remove the primer mechanism, unscrew the shell plate lock ring, remove the shell plate. That will also give you access to the primer punch mechanism, which is easy to remove, clean, reinstall. That also would allow you access to the index detent ball and spring. I've found that keeping that clean helps keep the indexing process working correctly. If that detent ball and spring get too much gunk on them, eventually will happen, then the index doesn't complete the way it should.

I don't think you can remove the primer slide without raising the primer slide actuating mechanism. I may be mistaken on that. When I remove the slide I'm also removing everything else most times so no big deal. I'm constantly using compressed air to blow debris off of the area around the primer slide and associated mechanism. I've been told that doing so can lessen the probability of a primer stack explosion. Having experienced an entire stack going off I'm quite interested in anything that could help prevent it. As a result of all that I probably disassemble the primer mechanism more often than most. Probably about every 5K. In fact when I do that I've started taking the rest of the whole top end apart and clean and lube. It really goes quite quickly once you've done it a few times.

As far as I know the Dillon has not documented the complete disassemble/reassemble process for either the 1050 or the 1100. However there are numerous Youtube videos for the 1050 and the 1100 is so similar that they can be used for the 1100 as well. It may seem a bit much the first time you do it but there is really only one way to put it back together so don't worry about that. Once you've done it a few times it becomes a very straightforward process. I've used the following:

I think this is the key for most issues. High volume loaders in particular. Also realize these machines are not "set it and forget it" type operations. They need constant tweaking. There can be differences even between otherwise identical machines.

You are correct. A given bullet loaded to a particular velocity with powder A is going to feel very similar and perhaps identical to that same bullet loaded to the same velocity with powder B. Especially to new shooters or someone who is recoil sensitive. Can there be subtle changes that experienced shooters can detect when changing powders? Sure. But the difference is going to be fairly insignificant when compared to just downloading the powder charge. Momentum is conserved no matter how hard we try to ignore that fact.

lol... Another tweak that can have an effect on case insertion is the position of the "indexer block" part number 16776. The position of the block controls the timing of the shell plate rotation. If the shell plate has not quite rotated far enough at the point the case is being inserted it can impact how the case hits the shell plate. If it hits too early, which was my problem, there was a momentary, so slight as to be almost not noticeable, hang up. Between adjusting the camming pin and the indexer block (along with not tightening the lock ring until a case is fully inserted) I've been able to pretty much eliminate any case insertion problems. At least with 9mm anyway.

They quote months but I sent an 1100 in a while back, probably April/ish and got it back a couple weeks later.

Good question. I'm curious what the shroud is supposed to accomplish. I actually got annoyed enough to take out the current generation GG trigger with the shroud and replaced it with the previous generation GG which did not have it. Qualitatively it did not change anything that was obvious to me. I did not compare using a trigger gauge. I did consider taking a dremel to the newer trigger but have not gone there. Yet...

That shrouded pin is a pain in the a$$. I cut down a brass patch holder to help locate the hook end of the spring onto the FCU. I clamp the FCU in a padded vise and then using that tool it is fairly easy. Having three hands would also help, lol.

@rowdyb What did you think of the backstrap and frontstrap checkering?

Should be an interesting experiment. I'd like to hear how it turns out. Back when I was shooting an M&P I have a vague recollection of a video where modifications to the sear were described in some detail. I haven't seen anything similar for the P320 platform.

That is the primary difference. The case feed cam is a little wider. You can adjust the indexing pin up and down. The indexing pin itself seemed to be exactly vertical in contrast to the stock Dillon which had a very slight angle. I'm probably missing something but that's what comes to mind.

Hi Mark, yeah I'm going to keep it. The fact that it has the spring recess is not a negative for an automated machine. I'm betting it won't be too long before they are available. When I ordered mine from immortobot they were out of stock but allowed backorders. It was about a month before they got their next batch in. Unfortunately they no longer carry them as far as I know.

And therefore we can shoot a PCC with a 30 round magazine and have two additional 30 round magazines on the belt.

Hey thanks Mark. I just checked mine and I have one with the recess and one without. I took my spring off to accommodate the Ammobot prior to using the tool heads so I never realized the difference between the two. Although my machine is automated I often cycle it manually for various reasons. That return spring is not necessary for manual operation although if not installed the tool head will sink unless it is fully raised. If I had a manual machine I'd definitely use the spring.

On an 1100 stations 6,7,8 have a "drain hole" cast into the frame. On my processing tool head I've got the FW decapper in station 2. I have a Lee sizer/decapper in station 7 with the pin. If a primer makes it past the FW arms die then the Lee die will catch it. That has happened occasionally although quite rare. When it does it just falls through the drain hole on to my bench. (On my machine the "drain hole" in station 7 doesn't always allow the primer to drop all the way through. When that happens they will back up. The drain hole in station 8 has a little more clearance. On my next processing run I'll either shift my die to station 8 or attempt to smooth out and/or enlarge the hole for station 7.)

Well on my machine they do drop in the cup like they are supposed to. Is it possible the spent primer cup is not pushed in as far as it is supposed to be? I've never had an issue with a significant number of primers missing the cup. Every once in a while? Sure. But not like what you are seeing.

+1 and I hope it's not too late to do something like that for this particular individual

Hey Mark, if you get a chance to ask him what the difference is I'd be interested. Thanks.

Yes, it seems that way. I appreciated that he was very responsive to emails. That's usually a good sign.

Interesting, this is the first time ever I've heard of specific models. I've never seen them marketed in that fashion. I wonder if the autodrive version has no provision for attaching a ratchet?

Mark, I have heard of people doing exactly as you describe although I don't have any links. I have done something similar though. Before I got my CNC shooter tool head I experimented briefly with mounting a Lyman M die in that location. So that worked fine as far as flaring is concerned. However since I sort my brass for only brass that typically does not have crimped pockets I can't speak to whether or not it provided sufficient backing for the swage process. I've since moved on to other configurations. Edited to add: I'm going to guess that the sizing die will work as a swage backer as far as the swaging process itself is concerned. However a longer term concern would be will it keep the shell plate from flexing to the point where eventually there is a fatigue failure there?