Anyone using berrys for 300BLK subs? Having stabilizing issues

[Nick_shoots_fast]

I’ve now tried 2 different powders along with various seating depths. 

 

My only goal is to keep it from going super sonic and for whatever reason, the bullets WILL NOT STABILIZE and it’s infuriating. 

 

I have a 1/7 Wilson combat barrel that’s 8” long 

 

I’ve used CFE black (which is complete dog s#!t and wouldn’t recommend this powder to anyone)

And now H110. 

 

I’m all out of ideas on what it can be. 

 

What’s your berrys load data and are you having bullets tumble?  

[cvincent]

Curious for any responses. I’ve  been using coated lead with good results with 1680.  Just got some berrys for free, haven’t loaded any though.  Hope they work. 

[Boomstick303]

I have yet to load and test the Barry's bullets in 300 Blackout, but I will share what I found in my research.

 

I bought Barry's 300 Blackout bullets, after watching this video by Gavin on his YouTube channel Ultimate Reloader.  He had pretty good luck and there is some load data for that H110.  I also bought H110 to replicate his load to try out.  If my memory serves me correct in the video he discusses how the magnum primers seem to help his SD numbers.  

 

Maybe his loads for H110 will help your groups.

 

One thing to note is his barrel is 1/8 twist versus the 1/7 twist barrel you are using.  Is the twist rate an issue, and have you researched that in regards to Sub sonic 300 blackout?

 

 

Edited December 14, 2021 by Boomstick303

[iflyskyhigh]

Are you using a suppressor? 
 

Either way H110 and and CFE Black are not the best powder for subs. Too fast.

 

You can read my whole stupid long post, but I’ll summarize in case you don’t have any too. You’re chasing your tail. 
 

AA1680 is probably the best sub powder I’ve tried. It makes enough gas to cycle and lock even without me a suppressor on. 
 

Next is IMR 4227. It’s quieter than 1680 in subs but it also doesn’t produce as much gas. Can’t run 4227 with MOST subs without the can. I’d still choose 1680 if given the choice.

 

1680 can also do supers pretty well, but again that’s where things like 396 and H110 shine. I use H110 for my 110/125 supers. I hunt coyotes with the 125gr Speer TNT HP’s in an 18” Wilson barreled AR 1-8 twist.  Again 4227 will also do supers just not as fast. Fastest to slowest for supers is H110/AA1680/IMR4227. (You can use AA#9 too but it’s HOT, you’re gonna over pressure before max velocity)

 

I have an 8 pounder of Shooters World Blackout which is supposed to replicate 1680. Haven’t tried it yet. Let you know.

 

As far as bullet selection goes my personal experience is that coated lead and plated bullets at sub sonic velocities just don’t work that well no matter what you do. I wasted a ton of powder and bullets trying to make Gallant 225gr coated lead work. They work I guess but the accuracy past about 25-30 yards is crap. You can make a group at 40, but by 50 they are spraying all over the place. I bought about 4500 of them back when it was Firehouse or whatever it was before they sold out to Gallant.

 

I ended up just loading them up with a sub load of 4227 and using them for shooting steel in tacti-cool practice out of an 9.5” SBR (1-7 twist). I don’t use the can with the coated lead as they still muss up the can more than I’d prefer even though my can is user serviceable. They will cycle but won’t lock open last round. I’ve tried everything. Even run Bootleg BCG. Good enough for plinking. If I’d put a little more powder in I’d probably be past subsonic (which doesn’t matter with or without the can in this case) but they’d probably function a little better. Whatever. Good enough.

 

For true sub load I’ve discovered Nosler 190 CC are the bees knees. I stumbled on them by accident. I bought the 190’s for my long range 308 but couldn’t push em fast enough to make it work. Had these bullets lying around so I decided to try them in the 300 BO. Easy to make sub with either 4227 or 1680 (again 4427 wont cycle without can but I never intend to shot these without a can) and the accuracy is phenomenal even at 100. I can hit steel at 200 pretty easy but they don’t have much left by that distance. It’s basically a pistol weight projectile going pistol velocities. It’s a 45 auto with better ballistics.

 

I bought several thousand of the 190 CC in bulk for about what the Berrys cost I believe. If you look around you can find them (or at least you used to be able too) for about $.20/each give or take. Not cheap, but not expensive for a quality sub projectile.

 

Good luck. 300 BO sub guns are way too much fun.

[cvincent]

On 12/14/2021 at 7:15 PM, iflyskyhigh said:

Are you using a suppressor? 
 

Either way H110 and and CFE Black are not the best powder for subs. Too fast.

 

You can read my whole stupid long post, but I’ll summarize in case you don’t have any too. You’re chasing your tail. 
 

AA1680 is probably the best sub powder I’ve tried. It makes enough gas to cycle and lock even without me a suppressor on. 
 

Next is IMR 4227. It’s quieter than 1680 in subs but it also doesn’t produce as much gas. Can’t run 4227 with MOST subs without the can. I’d still choose 1680 if given the choice.

 

1680 can also do supers pretty well, but again that’s where things like 396 and H110 shine. I use H110 for my 110/125 supers. I hunt coyotes with the 125gr Speer TNT HP’s in an 18” Wilson barreled AR 1-8 twist.  Again 4227 will also do supers just not as fast. Fastest to slowest for supers is H110/AA1680/IMR4227. (You can use AA#9 too but it’s HOT, you’re gonna over pressure before max velocity)

 

I have an 8 pounder of Shooters World Blackout which is supposed to replicate 1680. Haven’t tried it yet. Let you know.

 

As far as bullet selection goes my personal experience is that coated lead and plated bullets at sub sonic velocities just don’t work that well no matter what you do. I wasted a ton of powder and bullets trying to make Gallant 225gr coated lead work. They work I guess but the accuracy past about 25-30 yards is crap. You can make a group at 40, but by 50 they are spraying all over the place. I bought about 4500 of them back when it was Firehouse or whatever it was before they sold out to Gallant.

 

I ended up just loading them up with a sub load of 4227 and using them for shooting steel in tacti-cool practice out of an 9.5” SBR (1-7 twist). I don’t use the can with the coated lead as they still muss up the can more than I’d prefer even though my can is user serviceable. They will cycle but won’t lock open last round. I’ve tried everything. Even run Bootleg BCG. Good enough for plinking. If I’d put a little more powder in I’d probably be past subsonic (which doesn’t matter with or without the can in this case) but they’d probably function a little better. Whatever. Good enough.

 

For true sub load I’ve discovered Nosler 190 CC are the bees knees. I stumbled on them by accident. I bought the 190’s for my long range 308 but couldn’t push em fast enough to make it work. Had these bullets lying around so I decided to try them in the 300 BO. Easy to make sub with either 4227 or 1680 (again 4427 wont cycle without can but I never intend to shot these without a can) and the accuracy is phenomenal even at 100. I can hit steel at 200 pretty easy but they don’t have much left by that distance. It’s basically a pistol weight projectile going pistol velocities. It’s a 45 auto with better ballistics.

 

I bought several thousand of the 190 CC in bulk for about what the Berrys cost I believe. If you look around you can find them (or at least you used to be able too) for about $.20/each give or take. Not cheap, but not expensive for a quality sub projectile.

 

Good luck. 300 BO sub guns are way too much fun.

Interesting..  all I’ve used so far is the leatherhead, before “gallant” coated bullets. With 1680 out of an 8” barrel, can plink USPSA head boxes at 200 with an Eotech, prone, all day. Just copied a load found in the interwebs, 10-11gr or so, not sure off the top of my head.  No issues at all.   

[iflyskyhigh]

23 hours ago, cvincent said:

Interesting..  all I’ve used so far is the leatherhead, before “gallant” coated bullets. With 1680 out of an 8” barrel, can plink USPSA head boxes at 200 with an Eotech, prone, all day. Just copied a load found in the interwebs, 10-11gr or so, not sure off the top of my head.  No issues at all.   

Yea. That’s it. Leatherhead. I settled on 9.5 of 4227. My load for 1680 was 10.5. My gun didn’t particularly like either one. I had more 4227 so that’s what I used. Maybe I should pull all 4000 and try 1680 again….

Edited December 17, 2021 by iflyskyhigh

[edison]

I'm using between 9.5gr & 10.3gr H110 in an 8 inch 1/7 twist aero precison barrel; no tumbling. I'm getting 1,044fps avg with 9.5gr, no crimp; just whatever neck tension from the sizing hornady sizing die.

[iflyskyhigh]

I’m probably being dramatic. The load is good enough with the leather heads. I’m sure I could improve it and any inadequacies are my own doing with that load. Just too many other projects seeking my time. But the Nosler 190cc loads are WAY better and took very little fiddling to get shooting laser beams. 

[nate89]

I can only speak to my experience, but I've loaded them with CFE blk and shot them without issue in a 7.5" with a 1:7 twist a 7" with a 1:5" twist, and a 16" 1:7 twist bolt gun.  I keep the velocity between 950-1050, and either use no crimp, or just the slightest crimp with the Lee FCD.  I was actually surprised at how accurate they were out of the little 7" AR at 50 yards, right about 1" for a 5 shot group at various amounts of powder.