dons

Just finished this exact type of test. Based on a number of loading manuals, both new and old, 5.0 of 231 seemed midrange with a 115 FMJ bullet. But I got primer flow in my Kimber 1911 using Winchester small pistol primers. Pulling the bullets on your 5.0 load seems like a good idea.

In addition to the great advice above, I've found that a sizing die with a "floating" expander that expands after the neck is completely pulled out of the neck-sizing area of your die is a big part of the solution - such as the Forster, but other brands can be modified. Additionally, using one of the VLD chamfering tools will also help when looking for better bullet alignment. Wilson has been doing that on their inside neck reamers for decades, and it really helps. As far as using your 650, I'd resize as a separate operation; then check for case length (cases stretch during sizing), concentricity, etc. Then run them back through the 650 without a sizing die for the rest of your operation. As always, YMMV. Good luck.

The crease you're experiencing may be caused by using a seat/crimp die. The bullet is still moving into the case as the crimp is applied, resulting in some scraping of the coating. If you were to seat and crimp in two separate operations, as suggested earlier, the crease may disappear. Try seating a few bullets in your current die without any crimp; back out the die completely until there's no crimp at all, then screw in the seating stem until you get your preferred overall length, and seat the bullets. Then back out the seating stem and readjust the die to crimp only and run your cartridges back through the die. You may be surprised with the results. YMMV.

My dad told me to always have my workbench top set at 36". I sit on a 24" Kitchen stool, and don't use the strong mount on either my 550 or 650. That combination has been been working good for me for over 30 years. I do have to stand up to fill the case feeder, and I'm 5'8".

With a 121 gr Zero JHP, I've used the following to make major power in my 38 Super; 10.0gr Accurate #7, 7.7gr Winchester AutoComp (WAC), and my current load, 8.4gr Silhouette. Hope this helps

Thank you, this makes sense; but I tried it and it didn't work for me. So I did what I should have in the beginning. I called Dillon. I followed their advice and grounded the press with a wire to one of the plate (ground) screws on a nearby electrical outlet, and wiped the press down with a dryer sheet. Shell plate, powder funnel, inside the powder hopper, anywhere I could reach. Loaded a couple hundred and the spillage is almost nonexistent. So, Warsaw214, I just needed to expand your advice and get a really good ground and use the dryer sheet to eliminate the static electricity. Thanks again!

I respect your opinion, and typically do visually check and do not completely rely on the powder check. But do you have any thoughts to solve my issue besides losing the powder check die altogether?

I'm loading 38 Super with 8.4 grains of Silhouette. I've done all the recommended steps (aftermarket ball, spring, rollers, etc.) to make the shellplate travel smoother and not come to an abrupt stop at the end of the stroke. But I still was getting powder spilling onto the shellplate. It appears that the powder is somehow sticking to the end of the powder check rod, then falls off when the case is withdrawn from the powder check die. I've polished the end of the rod and wiped it with a dryer sheet to try to eliminate "static cling." When I operate the press without the powder rod, I get no spillage. Anyone else seen this occur? Any Ideas to solve it? I'm now just using a light to insure the powder level is correct, but I'd like to use the powder check die as designed.

Best price I've found for new Starline is from CZ Custom, when it's in stock. $138 per 1000, included shipping last time I ordered.

This post has piqued my curiosity. Have you pulled and measured the bullets that pushed into the case? The Lee carbide crimp , per Lee's ad copy, resizes the case while crimping. I'm thinking that this may size the case a little while the cartridge is pulled out of the die. In doing this, the case going through the sizing portion after the bullet is seated may actually compress enough to size the bullet? Just curious.

What brass are you using? I've got some much fired practice brass that won't hold bullets either. New Starline always works, YMMV.

Right handed and left eye dominant. I shoot mostly open. I shot right-handed and used my left eye. I used a stance which brought my right bicep more toward my chin with my left foot forward. Shot with both eyes open. Worked great for about 25 years. Then I developed a cataract in my left (dominant) eye, and I couldn't get a clear focus on anything. Surgery to correct is risky because had a radial keretotomy many years ago. So I changed my stance to use my right eye 5 years ago. I closed my left eye at first, but gradually got used to keeping both eyes open. At first my left eye would try to take over: shooting around the left side of a barricade I would lose the dot, or even worse sometimes I found myself looking at the left side of my pistol instead of the cmore. That hasn't happened in a while. Just sharing my experience. YMMV

I have a number of 9mms, some lead with cast bullets, some don't. With the ones that lead, I will end a stage with jacketed bullets loaded in my last magazine. That seems to get the worst of the leading out. Same for the end of a shooting session. YMMV.

Heinie maybe, they have a .300 front sight.

Yes. Sometimes the recoil spring is too heavy and that will cause nosedives. My theory is the mag spring does not have enough time to get the round all the way up in the magazine before the slide starts forward, causing a nosedive. I run a STI 38 Super loaded to 172PF at 1.225" and use a 7 pound recoil spring. BTW, never had a problem with 38Super, so never switched to SuperComp. YMMV

A longer than stock firing pin in a 1911/2011 can help with that cratering. Did for me.

Our club allows a "second gun" to compete for a lesser charge. But you're right, it does put an extra burden on everybody else. My thought is that we as a shooting community should support all shooters rather than dissuade those who may want to shoot twice. And bear the burdens that come with that support. I believe that you will find eventually more of your participants will want to become more involved and will become ROs.

I had the same problem with PD .355 bullets in my Super. I thought I would try some PD bullets. Had the same issues you describe. Switched back to Zero .356 bullets, problem stopped. YMMV.

I have 2 STI 2011s, both 38super. I load Winchester SRP exclusively in this caliber. The old one I've had for many years and many rounds, 17lb mainspring, NEVER had a misfire. I bought my new (used) one and got many light strikes. I finally put in a 23lb mainspring and the problem was cured. I wasn't happy with this, so after many gunsmithing adventures I got rid of the lightweight hammer and put in a heavier one with a 19lb mainspring. Much better. YMMV.

Take the powder die apart and polish the expander where it enters the case.

I also have a Barsto 9mm 1911 barrel (in a Kimber). It is tighter than my other 9mm barrels, mostly in the chamber leade. Rounds that easily fit in a CZ75, Glock 17, and Browning HP, and my EGW case gauge will not fully seat in the Barsto. I find the hangup is usually the bullet diameter right in front of the case mouth. I used a marker to determine where the issue is. I solved it by seating the bullet deeper: Luckily for me the Kimber will feed ammo shorter than the norm, some shorter than 1.000". YMMV.

If you're handy and very patient, you can do it yourself. I did a series 80 Colt's 9mm slide to .40 S&W using Swiss files. Probably took an hour total. You're only looking at about .015 to take off on each side. I got a prize table 40 barrel at the '94 nationals to show how long ago this was. Works fine on my production Para to this day.

I started to research a similar process: 1911 45 to 9mm. Best deal I could find was Bomar-cut slide from Fusion for about $275, Wilson Barrel for $200. Then you need all other internals: Firing pin, spring and stop and extractor. Also new ejector. Magazines too. Gunsmith fitting. But you'd have the pistol you want. I gathered some parts up for this conversion when a fellow competitor offered me his complete pistol and setup so I bought it. Now I have some spare parts if I need them.