JayDee

Concerning price…. Alexander Arms makes a really usable complete upper in 6.5 Grendel for around $800. For me, that was a fairly affordable way to get into a longer range cartridge that didn't necessitate a new lower or separate rifle. The glass you put on it is another matter

My Dan Wesson runs factory ammo just fine. A lot of factory 40 is pretty hot, i.e. UMC 180 grain from my pistol has a PF above 185. However, I've been using Freedom Munitions 180 grain reloads and they are a much more manageable load. PF is around 171 last time I checked.

Isn't the CTS basically a modified TS? Since the TS has a great rep for limited, I can only imagine that the CTS would be as good if not better. When you order it, make sure to order new mag bases and guts. With this change they will be 20+ round mags instead of 17 rounders. My TS .40 is a great pistol and has one of the nicest factory triggers I've used.

I've had a 6.5 Grendel for the past year or so. AA Overwatch Upper with 24" barrel & AR15 lower. The Grendel mags I have are made by AR Stoner and came from Midway. I've shot some of the Precision Firearms 123 grain Scenar as well as Hornady 123 grain SST. Both grouped sub-moa from my rifle, and I'm just an average long range shooter. It's an excellent round and let's AR15 owners experiment with 6.5mm without investing in a whole new rifle.

I believe the Shadow models should be legal in USPSA production and IDPA SSP. Decocker guns can be made really good with some custom work, but they still aren't quite as nice as the DA/SA triggers. IMHO, it's best to buy the nicest gun you are comfortable purchasing. A couple hundred dollars up front does not make too much difference when you compare the amount you can spend on range time, ammo and travel time. On average, I spend about the same amount on ammo per year that I spent to purchase my SP01. Of course, admittedly, I always use this logic to justify a slightly nicer initial investment.

+1 for the shadow target. While the standard 75 shadow and SP01 shadow are great guns, the worked over action on the target model is pretty dang sweet. I also prefer the weight of the railed CZs. Disclaimer: I haven't been bold enough to disassemble my CZ actions yet. Atlas' guide looks like a great resource though.

Finally got this fixed….. not amount of tweaking with recoil springs made any difference. After a few calls to to Dan Wesson, I got a return label and sent my SSC back to them. They did a full evaluation and ultimately replaced the slide stop. Now it functions perfectly. Thanks for the input and suggestions! JD

The folks at Tripp have been super helpful whenever I've had issues. Give them a call.

+1 about the TS feeding, weight and grips. My TS 40 hung up feeding during the first couple magazines, but has been flawless for the last few thousand rounds. If you are a dyed-in-the-wool 1911 guy, the STI would be more familiar. There are more aftermarket parts and smiths available for 2011s, too. However, the CZ TS has the best factory trigger I've used and is far more comfortable/natural to grip than a 1911 for me. When I look at what I spent on a TS with 7 tuned mags, I spent about $1000 less than a friend who went STI + 4 mags. For me, being used to CZ pistols in production, it made this the logical step to get into Limited.

Personally, I'm a Dan Wesson fan, but my friend who owns Springfields (MC Operator and LW Operator) raves about Springfield service.

I've always like the thin AL grips and use them on several CZs. They make the grip super manageable and have (IMHO) the perfect amount of texture. You can always add more skate tape. If you decide you need something better, PM me re you old ones.

CZ's are taking over…. my gun safe!

Just got back from the range. I tested Wilson combat and Checkmate mags with 172pf ammo and 185pf ammo. Still failed to lock back. More often than not. The new Ed Brown slide stop needs to be fitted. That is my next move. @fuelie, I'm certain that my support hand isn't touch the slide. Descent feel like it now and grip has never been an issue with other pistols. The factory slide stop does appear to catch a bit in the disassembly notch, not severely, but maybe just enough to slow the slide down before engaging the lock notch. Now I'll try the slide stop. Thanks.

Here is the ongoing super thread on the CZ712. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=104157

My factory SP01 Shadow came with a 1.5mm.

I have a TS and 1911 in .40 S&W. Both are super fun pistols to shoot. The TS has needed less customizing from the beginning, has a better trigger than most guns in its price range and also has great ergonomics.

Like Beer Baron stated, the majority of your matches will be spent shooting your pistol in single action. Dry fire practice should approximate match conditions. When I first got a CZ Shadow, I practiced the DA shot a lot. Too much. I practiced DA so much that I was letting the trigger reset much too far on all the subsequent SA shots, and my speed and precision got worse. Once I figured this out, it took several hours of dry fire to retrain my finger to reset only enough to make the SA trigger stroke. Since then, I have much faster splits and many fewer fliers from mashing the trigger.

IIRC the 7.5mm FO front sight is correct with the standard fixed TS rear sight. Easy to swap.

What happened when it was shot for calibration? Edit- yep, that has happened to me, too.

Several folks have done a TS grip reduction. Eliminate the checkering and further undercut the beavertail and trigger guard.

My shadow also gets brass marks above the extractor. No worries.

Just took everything apart and noticed two things: First, the followers move freely without the spring. When the mags are assembled it almost feels like the pressure of the slide stop on the leading edge of the follower is camming it slightly when I insert the mag into the frame with slide stop in, w/ slide removed. Second, when reassembling, I noticed that when cycling the slide with an empty mag, there is a spot where the slide will hang slightly, and remain open, just short of engaging the slide stop. It looks like either part of the slide stop is touching the slide, or there is some contact between the top of the mag lips and the underside of the frame. Do you think this could be slowing the slide enough to short stroke? Have you guys ever encountered either of these issues? In the meantime, I've ordered a couple new types of mags and a new slide stop to see if these make any sort of difference.

Thanks for the replies…. re: magazines, they are new and have the "flex follower". I've taken apart the mags and don't feel any burrs or obstructions. This issue does not happen with any particular mag. I'll double check to make sure that the followers are running smooth. In the meantime, a couple follow up questions: The hybrid followers appear to be made for 45 cal mags. Have you guys used this follower with 40cal? If the mags and followers check out, what other things could make this happen? Also, when I say that it is a "New" pistol…. it has about 500 rounds through it, it is well lubed, and has fed everything perfectly so far. Cheers JD

Hey all, I'm hoping that someone has a suggestion.... I have a new Dan Wesson 1911 .40 and the slide will not always lock back when shot until empty. This happens intermittently and is not consistent. At practice last night, while intentionally shooting to empty, it would fail to lock back about 1 out of 4 times. I know that shooting to slide lock is poor stage planning, and I try to avoid this. However, shooting SS major, it is bound to happen occasionally. I'm mostly trying to figure out what is causing this. It would be great if it were just consistent. Ammo- freedom munitions and Remington UMC factory .40 180gr RNFP. Mags- Tripp cobra 9 rounders Recoil spring- 14# (swapped out from factory 16# spring) A friend suggested that I may be touching the slide with my thumb, but I'm pretty confident I'm not. At least I have never impeded the slide on my other 1911, limited, or production guns. So, any suggestions? Slide stop? Mag tuning? Thanks in advance!

+1 for both CMC and Timney triggers. I have both and they are excellent. If you get the DPMS LPk, the trigger guard pin was a bit too large to easily fit in my Aero and Spikes lowers. YMMV. The Magpul MOE trigger guard is a good, affordable alternative, and there is no risk of busting a tab during installation. Also, after trying multiple brakes, I ended up with miculek brakes on my main 3G rifle and my backup carbine. Great performance for the money.