Stuck in C

Great pistol, but I have been unable to find spare magazines anywhere at any price. When I bought it, the dealer (and I) thought they would eventually show up, but even after a year and a half, no luck.

The only times my M1 has failed has been due to mag spring/follower issues. Mine at least likes a lot of mag spring tension, more than is usually recommended. I also replaced the follower with a Nordic low drag. And, by the way, I bought my M1 in 2004 and have detail cleaned it exactly once (when I was bored). A quick wipe and spray and its good to go. It's not a gas gun with a gas system that needs frequent cleaning.

I dealt with the problem by stuffing the pistol in the back of the gun safe and not shooting it. Its up to number three or four on my list of projects/things to do. It works great as a 10 round pistol.

I have the exact same issue with my IPSC Standard in .40, with eight different magazines (four IPSC and four TS), CZC and TF basepads, and every spring and follower combination known to man. The problem shows up with the magazines loaded to about 16-18 rounds, not fully loaded to 20-21. The ten round magazines that came with the pistol back in 2004 work perfectly.

I have one of the older IPSC Standards in .40, which I bought during the last magazine restriction law, so it came with 10 round mags. When the ban was lifted I bought 4 IPSC Standard mags, which held 16. After the TS came out I bought 4 more mags marked "Tactical Sport" which were supposed to hold 17, but I was never able to get more than 16 in them. They actually look identical except for the markings. Maybe the newer versions do hold 17. And, by the way, I have never had any luck using any of the extended base pads (CZ Custom and Taylor Freelance). I've tried the factory followers with extra power springs, CZ Custom springs and followers, and Gram's springs and followers. All nosedive and fail to feed with both factory ammo and my 1.135" reloads. The pistol is flawless and never jams with the original 10 round mags. I'm the only one I know who has this problem. Must be something I did in an earlier life...

I've got a 10-22 sight somewhere. Anyone know what the dovetail dimensions are (or where I can find them)?

When I was a boy of fourteen, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to have the old man around. But when I got to be twenty-one, I was astonished at how much the old man had learned in seven years. Attributed to Mark Twain, but there is doubt that the quote is actually his. In any case, things haven't changed that much. (I'm the father of 2 teenage boys).

I was having trouble finding 9mm brass at a reasonable cost due to the current madness, but was able to get ahold of some military 9mm picked up from a National Guard range years ago. It appears to have crimped primers so I was assuming I would have to ream or swage the primer pockets. However, that doesn't seem to be necessary. I deprimed and re-sized a few and new primers seated easily without reaming. Is that normal? 9mm military brass doesn't require primer pocket reaming or swaging?

It's a 24" barrel, so if I have it cut it will end up < 20". I had as much luck buying a 24" non-ported barrel as finding a JM. They are not listed on the web site and phone wait times on hold are in excess of 35 minutes. Both times I managed to wait long enough to actually get to talk to someone they didn't think such a thing was currently available, and wouldn't take a special order for one.

I know a lot of people have great luck with lighter recoil springs but my G34 was never 100% reliable with them. 13# ISMI recoil spring with stock striker spring would sometimes fail to go in to battery. 13# recoil spring with reduced power striker spring would always go into battery but I would get a few light primer hits. Loved the way the 13# spring felt, but gave up on it. Now I use a 15# recoil and stock striker springs. Doesn't feel any different than stock but is 100%.

I use a Dawson adjustable with Dawson 0.100 front black "Target" sight on both my G34 and G35. The only downside is the adjustable sight requires a very tall front sight which may not work with some Kydex holsters (too short sight channel).

I have Mossy 930 24" Turkey barrel (VR, FO sights, ported) that I bought before the JM came out. I was going to sell it and go with the 930 JM, but they have become impossible to find. So I need to cover up the ports in this barrel to keep me out of Open. I have a thin strip of sheet metal cut and bent to cover them and the Nordic clamp will help hold it in place, but I think I need to otherwise secure it. 1. Silver braze it in place, should be secure but it will ruin the finish and I will have to be careful not to overheat the rest of the barrel. 2. Regular JB Weld. Easy. JB Weld has an upper temp limit of about 500F. Is the barrel/port cover going to get hotter than this and break loose? Will the clamp hold it in place anyway? Any other ideas? I dont want to pay someone to TIG weld the ports closed.

ktm300, where do you get the green gas from?

I just went to my local ranch supply store that also sells sporting goods and generally has the best ammo prices in the area. They had cases and cases of both rifle and pistol ammo, but the prices were ridiculous-if i had to pay those I couldnt afford to shoot. They also restricted sales to 5 boxes per customer per day. For example, 50 rounds of PMC 115 gr fmj 9mm that were $8 in December were now $18 and flying off the shelves. .40 and .45 fmj were $26, hollow points $32. But they had lots... The PMC XM-193 5.56 was not as as bad, $10 per 20 or $500 per case (but they wouldn't sell you a case).

I worked the last 3 nats in Vegas as an RO. The only reason I could was the cheap air fares to Vegas from the small airline market I live in. I might work the match in St. G since I can still fly cheap to LV. The lowest I can fly to Tulsa is about $500 and since reimbursement is $375 I cant do it. St G is also close enough to drive to for a reasonable cost. I don't really like Vegas much since I dont gamble and my wife wont let me chase chorus girls (and I probably couldnt catch one anyway).

Benelli seems really stingy with the solder on their shotguns. The front sight on my ghost ring equipped M1 Tactical went flying during a match. When I examined it, there was very little solder under there. I re-soldered it using sheet silver solder: cut a piece to size, clamped it under the sight along with flux and heated it with a torch. It aint going anywhere now.

The magazine catch spring screw comes from the factory heavily staked into the frame. If you remove it (Iwant to re-finish the frame), do you re-stake it, or is something like red locktite adequate? How hard is it to re-stake it? Thanks.

I went with monovision: left lens with my normal distance correction and the right (dominant) focused at the front sight distance. Worked great for about 5 years but last year I started to develop headaches if I wore them more than 2-3 hours. My eye doctor says that is due to my aging brain (!). This year we cut back the dominant eye correction so the difference between the two lenses is less. Front sight is not as sharply focused but I can see it clearly. We will see how it works.

When my kids were in grade school, one of the other kid's science fair projects was developing a load for his .243 for his first deer hunt (chronograph results and groups with various powders/charge weights). Gotta love rural schools.

I have an early MP95 Atlanta, which is my primary Bullseye pistol. It has a great trigger (although it's a European-style almost two stage trigger) which is very adjustable. Its incredibly accurate, the equal of some other pistols that cost 3x as much. The balance is very good and can be changed by swapping muzzle weights. But, it takes some effort to keep it reliable. The chamber has to be kept very clean (I use a bent .32 cal brass bore brush so I don't have to disassemble it). I put a drop of light oil on the top round of each magazine. And finally, there is a synthetic recoil buffer that needs to be replaced often (I change mine once a year)to keep it reliable. The buffer acts as a spacer that keeps tension on the recoil assembly; if it wears out you'll have cycling problems. Use the buffers from Larry's Guns, not the Benelli ones. In the 10 years or so I've owned mine, I've had two out-of-battery ignitions, which shredded the .22 case, launched the extractor, spring, and pin into never-never land and scared the crap out of me. No other damage to the pistol or me. Overall its a great bullseye pistol, but I'm not sure I'd use it for rimfire Steel Challenge or similar games. Larry's Guns in Maine is the importer, and is the resource for parts and advice.

I was an RO on the slowest bay/stages for the LPR, and we never got a lunch break or any other break. The RM and/or the USPSA President brought our lunches to the bay, and I was more or less running shooters with the timer in one hand and a cheeseburger in the other (well, almost).

I had one in .308 for a couple of years, with the laminated wood stock. Wickedly accurate, but heavy. I didn't like the 4-round magazines either. I really liked the set trigger. I ended up selling it for the money to build a different precision rifle. I might of kept it if it had the kevlar stock.

One of the problems of course, is that a lot of shooters can shoot all A's much faster than i can, and its a constant mental battle for me to accept that shooting badly fast is not the road to success. I zeroed the classifier at our last local match by trying to go fast: 5 mikes and a no shoot. Oddly enough, my times were only a few tenths faster than when I've shot this classifier before without the "trying to go fast" attempt, even though it felt much faster.

Look on the TSA website for ammunition shipping rules. Most USA airlines default to international rules, which is what limits what you can check on an airplane (Alaska Air does not, follows US regulations). Its been awhile since I flew, but I believe TSA/US regs require that ammo be in boxes designed to carry ammunition, either commercial ammo boxes or, depending on the agent you run into, something like MTM or Dillon ammunition boxes. It doesn't have to be locked or in a seperate box (but it can't be in the locked case your firearm is in). Again, don't trust anyone here, look on the TSA site!

I don't think Practiscore will become widely (or universially) used until one of the companies that make shot timers and/or chronographs markets a touch screen device pre-configured to run it, at a cost near that of a timer, and that USPSA gives its official approval of the device/software package. I-phones are expensive, have small screens, and have battery issues. You are paying for a lot of smartphone features that you aren't using for Practiscore. The NST's have to be rooted to work by someone who knows what they are doing, and may have dust and water issues. Even then, smaller clubs will stick to paper for a long time due to cost.