mvmojo

Yeah, I know. I'm about a minute plus or minus per tube too. But, for whatever reason I just hate hunting and pecking for primers - seems like there's got to be a better way so I'm trying Primer Pro. I'm loading Ginex primers right now, I but 20K at a time of whatever's on sale. Really hoping the Primer Pro will work for me.

Gonna give the old towel technique a try. I've been dumping the brass in a 14 x 17 foil roasting pan and spraying it with either Dillon Case Lube, One Shot or Silicone. Probably using too much if spraying a towel and rolling the brass around in it works. Thanks for the tip!

YES! That's bowling. Equal movement in x and y from the time the support hand hits the gun right out of the holster. Great video example of what I was trying to convey.

All's well that ends well!

Seems like much about how different shooters do things differently in this game is based on degrees of nuance! If you define bowling as simultaneous equal movement in x and y (my intent) then Stroeger definitely doesn't do that in the video. If you don't define it as simultaneous equal movement in x and y then I'd submit that every draw would be a some form of bowling unless you draw the gun up to eye level before extending it out, i.e., all y first and then all x. Otherwise, there's always some form of simultaneous x and y movement. I personally think Stroeger gets the x-y ratio right in that most of his y movement is early in the draw stroke but once his weak hand meets the gun it's more x than y. Maybe that's why he's so fast! If that's bowling, then OK, I get it.

Thanks for the video! No, I wouldn't call that "bowling". He brings the gun up to above the diaphragm and establishes his weak hand grip before he punches out. I'm talking more about the weak hand meeting the gun near the belly button and then coming up in an arc from that point, no punch out, just a smooth arc up to the target. I'm not saying it can't work but I think it's harder to get on target and find the sight/dot this way. On the other hand, I've seen shooters bring the gun all the way up to arm pit level to establish their grip and then punch out. I've tried that and it's definitely slower for me than coming up to about the diaphragm level like in the video.

That could be, I don't know.

Have read all the comments and found them inconclusive - some have great luck with the Primer Pro, others not so much. But, hating to load up 12 primer tubes at a time and also being the eternal optimist, I plunked down the credit card and ordered one yesterday evening. Sure hope I don't have to rely on all the excellent advice given in this thread, but damn glad to know where to look if I have problems!! Thanks everyone!

I just throw my range pick-up brass in a Dillon tumbler with corn cob media bought at WalMart...the stuff they sell for hamster bedding, bird cages, etc. It's something like $5 per bag and a bag lasts me 6 or more months loading 1,500 to 2,000 rounds per month! I use it until it's pretty dirty and nasty looking then switch it out for new. I tumble for 2 hours then sift out the media, lube the brass with either Hornady One-Shot or silicone spray from Home Depot. Load 'em up on a 1050, shoot 'em at steel plates and repeat. They run through the press and they run through the gun. They don't look all pretty, shiny and new but in this case perfection is the enemy of good enough!

I could be a local club rule that no one is allowed to use AIWB for safety reasons.

I switched from a C-more with 12 moa dot to a Holosun 510c. I love the huge window and the circle dot. But, I didn't find the circle dot bright enough on the Holosun. It probably is bright enough, it's just that I'm borderline needing cataract lens replacement and until that happens I need more brightness than "normal" non-cloudy eyes. I'm back to the C-More and that big ol' dot is great! I also have the Holosun 507 on a carry gun I do find the 32 moa circle/dot bright enough to be effective. But the window is much smaller than either the 510c or the C-More slide-ride.

For a few hundred rounds a month in multiple calibers as Dillon 550 is perfect. Caliber change over is quick and simple. You can easily load 400 rounds per hour once you get the hang of the press and can get a rhythm going between inserting the shell case, placing the bullet and pulling the handle. I loaded on one for years (9mm & .45 acp) before upgrading to a used 1050, but I now load/shoot several thousand rounds per month, all in in 9mm. Used 550's seem to come up for sale every so often and are generally very reasonably priced. Dillon honors the no BS lifetime warranty no matter whether you bought new from them, or used and/or abused from someone else.

An intersting drill is to just face the berm with no target. At the sound of the beep, how fast can you draw and fire a shot into the berm? Not aiming, not seeing the sights/dot, just safely getting the gun out of the holster and up so that you hit the berm somewhere/anywhere. That's probably your're fastest draw possible (for now). Let's say that's 0.75 sec and your draw to hit the A-zone at 10 yds is 1.8 sec. Now you start looking for what is adding that 1.05 sec to hit the target. Is it getting a good grip on the gun so you control it vs just getting it out of the holster and up enough to hit the berm? Is it you not having a good index so that when the gun comes up you have to adjust to see the sights and get it on target? Is it having to move your body or your head to see the sights properly once the gun comes up? Lots of things to look at and think about.

That was my thinking also. Just seal up the plywood with some polyurethane and you're good to go.

Fundamentals look solid but I agree the gun should come up higher before punching out to the sight picture. You're doing what I call "bowling", drawing the gun and moving it up at the same time you're moving it out. Maybe putting your support hand a little higher on your stomach will help in bringing the gun higher before gripping and punching out. But, everybody is a little different in their draw. Set a 2+ sec par time and see what works best. Shorten the par time and keep experimenting before you spend too much time building bad habits. Once you get to failure on on particular method but the other still works, that's the one to practice, practice, practice with shorter, shorter, shorter par times. But, be warned, in your first few matches (or maybe more!), when the timer goes off your IQ will drop by 50 points and you memory will be so bad you'll feel like you could plan your own surprise party!

Important to know why you're buying a safe. If it's to keep your gun secure in the house because you have small children or grand kids, then almost any of them will do the trick. Ditto if you want one in the car with a cable to the seat to keep a smash and grab from taking your gun. But, if it's to keep a thief from getting your gun during a break-in when you're not home, given a little time, it appears that most if not all of small ones can be opened by someone with a little knowledge and/or a few tools.

Our club in Florida held an 8 stage Steel Challenge match this past Saturday, the first match we've held in 6 weeks. 56 shooters in 7 squads. Masks were optional. We did hold a shooters brief before the match and were gratified that everybody kept their distance from each other (other than husbands and wives - to each other!). We had a spray bottle of EPA/CDC approved disinfectant and a rag at each stage and asked shooters to spray the rag and wipe down the tablet and timer anytime they put it down or picked it up. It was a beautiful day, the weather was perfect and the match went well.

Little confused by your post. You say it's not pushing the slide "back" quite far enough to go 100% into battery. I suspect you meant you think the slide isn't returning "forward" far enough to go into battery every time. If so, as other have said, make sure you don't have marginally too long of an OAL. It does look long in the photo. If you're comfortable with OAL then look at your ejection pattern. If you're throwing cases more than a few feet away from the gun then you can probably get away with a stronger recoil spring to give a more positive return to battery.

I used Minwax fast drying polyurethane - something like 5 coats in 2 days. Looks fine, been on for 13 years now. Mine is a 2x4 framed, 4x4 supported, plywood topped loading bench. Fine furniture it's not but to my eye it looks OK in my indoor office/armory!

I believe you can get the springs for the Dillon powder measure from Dillon. Prior to the current bell crank arrangement Dillon used springs and still stock them. That's why the post is still on the powder bar, a throw-back to former design. Before ordering springs, try rubber bands if you want a more positive powder bar move.

I suspected it had and I searched before posting. Didn't find anything, but the search function, well, Google it's not! [caution, thread drift warning]

Maybe a dumb topic but as I was hunting and pecking to fill 12 primer tubes today I started to wonder what I could do with the little 100 hole primer packaging trays. Anybody figured out a way to repurpose these things.

I put a Holosun 510c (red) on my open gun. I loved the big circle & dot but... my eye doc says I'm "borderline cataract lens replacement" and I didn't think it was bright enough in the Florida sun, especially if it got a little bit of soot on the lens from the ejection port. Took it off and put my C-More railway with 12 MOA dot back on. I hate the fact that I have to turn it off between stages or it kills the battery, but man, is that big 'ol dot bright!

Cool, look forward to seeing what ya got!

I use OpenSCAD, a free downloadable 3D CAD modeller program. Pretty easy to use once you wrap your head around working in the Z axis as well as in X & Y! https://www.openscad.org/downloads.html