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drewbeck

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Everything posted by drewbeck

  1. I would say buy a stock gun (new or used), shoot it a whole bunch, shoot other peoples, figure out what you like, dislike, and what you would change if you could....then order a custom build and keep on shooting the gun you have until it is done.. you will still have a lot of resale value if not all of it in the stock gun and you will then have a custom exactly how you want it Bottom line, you probably can't go wrong either way!
  2. I don't have the case feeder which is why I'm using the bullet feed die. Placing both bullet and case slows down the process quite a bit. I have a U die on order so we'll see if that changes anything before I give up on the combo seating/crimp die
  3. First thing to do? Shoot it!... A lot!! Then think about changing everything. Regarding mags, check to make sure the fees lips are in spec, I ordered two spare tubes and had to squeeze both of the a little, this will help with the follower issue as well. You can either file the follower or the slide release to make it not lock back. Also try a light recoil master spring before you give up on it, I prefer them to a full length guide rod as of now
  4. How do offshore fishing rigs fall into the conversation? Maybe I missed something Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Every trigger needs to be worked to perform to it's mechanical best. Whether or not you need it to perform at your best is subjective and up for discussion. Typically a "factory" STI 2011 will come with a nice trigger and then can be tuned/improved upon to what you prefer. Any custom gun will have already had a trigger job while assembling which is why there is not a huge amount of discussion on them. They are built to the owners preference are usually good to go. If you don't have a preference on feel for now, I would just shoot and get used to whatever is in it unless it is aweful. If it's consistent you can make it work. Once you know what you like, you can start changing it if needed. For limited division, I wouldn't even think about anything but .40. You can go .45 in single stack if you want another gun/caliber. Also if you are just starting, I wouldn't try two divisions at the beginning, use 1 gun and stick with it for a while. If you buy 2 right out of the chute I can almost guarantee you in a year you will have 2 more different guns. (not that it's bad if you can afford it)
  6. Seems like you and I are having the same issue. They don't jam on me but it just feels like it will jam at some point and it will of course be the worst timing possible. Are you using the case feeder? I load sitting down and so I feel the powder cops is an absolute necessity. If I switched to case feeder instead of the bullet feeder die I would have a spot to do the two die seating/crimping. I'm wondering if there is a better seating/crimp die than the RCBS. Or maybe I just get a full length and put it in my single stage to clean up the rounds that don't gauge. Anyone else have any ideas on a die to seat/crimp?
  7. Ron they plunk fine if put in primer first which tells me I have a different issue than the rim having a burr or rubbing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I am actually using the RCBS seating and taper crimp die in #5, If I break this into two stages what should I get rid of to make room? The powder cop is really nice to have, as is the bullet feeder.
  9. So recently I have been having some issues with .40 rounds failing the case gauge. I'm currently using a Hornady LnL with a mixture of Hornady and Lee Dies. Setup Stages 1 - Lee Sizing 2 - Expander & Powder Drop 3 - Hornady Powder Cop 4 - Hornady Bullet Feeder 5 - Lee Seating and Crimp Die I've had some some issues with glock brass in the past but have adjusted the sizing die and don't have many if any bulge issues still happening. What is now happening is that probably 15% when gauged will drop in and stick out about the thickness of the case rim. If pushed they will go in but then need to be "popped" out from the backside of the EGW gauge. If I drop them in with the case first they plunk right in which leads me to believe I have a bullet issue. I don't think it is a crimp diameter issue as the whole case fits the gauge fine when backwards. Currently using 180 gr Xtreme bullets and mixed range brass. STI Executive and it happens from 1.16-1.2 with similar frequency. Looking at the load, I don't see any tilt in the bullet but I am thinking this has to be a concentricity issue with the seating and rubbing of the bullet. There are no real "cuts" on the bullet and the same thing happens when dropped in the chamber. They haven't jammed yet but I know it's just a matter of time before they get on Murphy's schedule if you know what I mean. Anyone have any idears on how to fix this?
  10. They probably say don't use it because it can slow down the slide which could cause malfunctions so I can see them not wanting to deal with that. As with anything test in practice and see how it runs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I use slide glide after noticing my gun getting dry by the end of a practice session. I have also been experimenting with my own brew of red synthetic grease and marvel mystery oil. I make it lighter than normal SG and it stays put. Lifetime supply is 15 bucks so you can make a couple different batches with various viscosities Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Go with the one that indexes and feels the best, the xd always felt like it sat a lot higher in my hand which I didn't like, if money's tight there are a ton of glock police trade ins available. There is usually some holster wear but typically they have been shot a lot less than you would expect (unfortunately) there is also way more aftermarket parts and it's almost guaranteed that you could assemble several glocks just from spare parts sitting in people's bags at a match. End of the day, either is a fine pistol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Fair enough, my only point is for someone just getting into comp .40 offer far more options For the different games. And I wish someone would have told me that before I bought a 17 which soon turned into an STI when I understood all the rules of Uspsa ( not that I'm sad I ended up with a 2011 at the end of the day) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I believe .40 to 9 mm is a one way street in that I mean you can't buy a 9mm conversion to 40 the slide opening isn't large enough on a 19, 17, 34 to fit the outside diameter of a .40 barrel. Starting with the 35 would allow you to shoot 9 for practice and 40 in competition. You could also buy a second 34 top end and essentially have two guns, buy a second frame as time and money permits and then you have both. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. If you can also get some chrono data while you're working it may be very beneficial in determining what is going on. Hodgon shows starting load of 4.0 and max of 4.3 with 230gr RN at 1.20" when you were at 4.9gr did you notice pressure signs? You could have been at the upper threshold which is why is open back up again. I would work around the 4.3-4.6 grain with the chrono to get the power factor where I wanted it and once you have the velocity close start messing with the crimp. Try to eliminate one variable at a time otherwise you won't know which one had the impact or the two changes could fight each other and you'll be chasing your tail. Once you're settle on a velocity the crimp will change it to some degree but its easier to go back and change the charge a little to get you back on track. How does the recoil impulse feel to YOU? If it feels totally different than what you are used to you could have a timing issue with the trigger pull/jerk/mash, etc. It may be worth while to have someone else shoot is as a double check or shoot from a rest as another test. Good luck
  16. I've had the same issue before with cam over and just needing a little more bump back on the shoulder of the case. Your chamber may be on the tight side and it's amazing how leaving them just a little long gets them stuck like you were doing it on purpose! Go just a little shorter until they feed and eject from that chamber
  17. Just asking the obvious but has the gun proven more accurate with a different load before the WST? Have you changed anything, since you last shot an accurate group with the gun? A lot of different things can affect consistent lockup and it may not be the load causing the brain damage. I would make sure a different load or factory load shoots accurately as a double check before you pull you hair out trying to change crimp and figure out a load with WST. If other loads are accurate RIGHT NOW in the gun, see what the longest load is that will pass the plunk test and fit in the mag and run a ladder test with different charges of WST and you should find a winner. Not trying to be insulting but sometimes its the stupid stuff we forget about that causes the most aggravation (like me going crazy with a rifle load later to find a loose scope ring!)
  18. Kugel or other hiking pants from rei are about the best thing for a range of temps and conditions... Jeans work also and are what I typically wear Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. If there is a chance of getting into limited I would get it in .40 instead of 9. You can download it to minor but you can't get major with the 9. You can also put a new 9 barrel in it and have both calibers for cheap. I planned on shooting production got a 17 then wanted to get into limited and so that gun hasn't been shot in a while now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I had that in my action as well. I thought it was tiny little flecks of spray paint from a couple dummy rounds I tried to spray paint to mark they were the dummies a couple months ago. Painting them doesn't work by the way! but last night I was cleaning my STI and thought how the heck is there still paint flecks in the action from months ago and a lot of cleanings? This now makes sense as I shot CFE earlier this week. My experience with CFE is that it is slow and has a solid snap/thump at in 40 Major. I used 165gr to help reduce this, and BBI's were even more help with them being a little faster than plated. Next to WST recoil was STOUT at Major. If you have other powders for matches, I would load these light to get a similar recoil impulse as your preferred powder and just shoot it in practice if you have the option. I think it is very comparable to AC and should be treated as such. In a pinch it will work for almost any pistol caliber but it is a slower powder. My 40 minor loads feel great and are fun to shoot. I bet this will also work very well in magnum calibers. I was at 5.9 gr for 180 xtremes and 6.5gr for 165 xtremes in .40 at 1.19 though you should start low and work up obviously
  21. Thanks I've been trading some with don but he doesn't have any wst that he's making available for sale Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I have some titegroup that I would trade for wst if anyone is interested let me know, only have 3 lb left in singles Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I'm shooting both of these exclusively now. It seemed that the BBI are "naturally" a fraction more accurate than the extremes for any given load in my gun. They are 30-45fps faster for the same charge out of my barrell. I do occasionally have a feed issue where the shoulder of the field point catches on the barrell hood, it probably happens 2-3 times per thousand. I also haven't done much forensics on the root cause of the issue as I just refeed it and fire while out practicing. I don't have this issue with the xtremes so I shoot them in matches. They are about the same price depending on the sale of the week, and I let that alone decide which way to go. The packaging for the extremes has been better and always intact, where I've had some boxes of BBI's opened on delivery. I didn't count to see if any were gone but I'm sure a few were. Bottom line, you can't go wrong with either and I would suggest shooting both just to add a little spice to life. I would also suggest loading your mags switching between the two every other round. It really confuses the targets and I find they don't jump out of the bullet path nearly as often
  24. What was your reasoning for the bushing barrel? Did you try the bull before making the decision?
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