TitoR

That's how the Caldwell chronograph app for iPhone saves the data Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I keep an inventory of 1000 rounds for myself and 500 for my son's PCC. 800 reserve and 200 for matches for me and 300/200 for my son. That's why I reload between 200 and 400, time available to reload between matches or if I need to load for my son too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

200 to 400 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cindy, I'm not sure I follow you on this one. Are you referring to the seating die or the powder adjustment bolt? The later does not move in or out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do have low, medium and high strength loctite, so no issue there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, 2nd powder bar is $24, uniquetek micrmeter is $80 and Prairie Dog's is $37. So, looks like the Pairie dog may be the best option. As for COL, I made two dummy round templates that I just use to setup the machine. Thanks all for all the great feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I currently have two 9mm loads, one for my competition pistol and one for my PCC. These use different Bullet weights (Both blue) and powder charge. So, the two main adjustments are powder charge and COL. Some have suggested setting up a second tool head with dies and powder drop/measure to expedite changeover. For me setting the powder charge is the most time consuming aspect of going from one load to another. So, I was wondering if it would be cheaper to just buy a second small powder bar and leave it set for the second powder charge. So, to switch from PCC to pistol and viceversa, I only change powder bar, adjust COL, verify charge weight and start cranking Bullets. BTW, I sort my brass so all other adjustments (crimp, bell, etc) remain constant. Does this make sense? Any reason not to do it this way? Thanks in advance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My PCC load is 2.7g of TG behind 135g Blue Bullets, soft shooting and makes minor fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My final load for Blue 135gr TC was 3.2 gr TG @ 1.140" for 127PF in my 4.5" XDM

I went through the exercise of bullet selection for my XDm recently. The table in the attached foto gives you the OAL I was able to achieve with each of the tried Bullets. I hope this data helps you. Key : RMR - Rocky Mountain Reloading, BYU - Bayou Bullets, BLU - Blue Bullets, BBI - Black Bullets

I was not aware of the UnikeTeks micro-meter, so I bought this adjustment knob from eBay and like it very much. Easy to turn for adjustment and graduations seem to correspond to my TG loadings very well. I guess I was lucky.

Thanks for all the replies, after loading multiple bullets with multiple charges, I've settled on two options: RMR 147 RN @ 1.140" loaded with 3.15gr of TG PF ~ 128 OR Bayou/BBI 135 RN @ 1.135" loaded with 3.25gr of TG PF ~128. I'm waiting for Blue Bullets in 147, 135 and 125 to do some additional testing.

I am new to reloading, but prior to buying the Dillon I've been reading this forum and several reloading books, so I know the basics. Why? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks RIIID. I'm aware about TG, but can't do much about it. In PR we are required to apply for an explosives license and powder is sold by a couple of LGS. I'm trying bayou, BBI and RMR. Any recommendations? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a brand new Dillon XL650 ready to go, but I'm a newbie, so need guidance on components. Powder and primers are set due to availability to TiteGroup and Fiocchi spp. Brass is coming from local ranges, to be wet tumbled, inspected, etc. So only choice is bullet selection. So, what bullet shoots best from an XDM 4.5? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone knows what overall bullet length will reliably function in XDm mags? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been waiting for 6 months for a LRBHO stepped upper to become available, so if anyone have a lead on where to find one, please share. I have the JoeBob billet glock mag lower in my build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went that way for a couple of matches, but I am shooting commercial ammo and it bottoms out in the buffer tube, making the dot jump all over the place. Two options going forward: Reloading to a lower power factor Son needs to build his strength Working in both Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JKW. The external rod may be an option, but not sure if it may interfere with the mag pouch. Patrick Kelly did a great fix for his LoneWolf rig, but I do not have the machining (or machines) to do what he did. See video here: Seems to me that what PK did should come standard with all glock lowers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do use big sticks, but on classifieds with mandatory reloads, it can be an issue. But, main reason for a fish is that this is my son's PCC. He is 10 and I want to minimize any failure points on his rig. If he overinsert mag, breaks a lip, then he will ha a hard time clearing it due to the 308 spring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At least your lower has an over travel stop. In the NFA/JoeBob there is none. I cannot monopod of the mag and if not careful I can over insert and the bolt will hit the mag lips. Anyone know of a solution to add an over travel stop? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone tried the Taccom 9mm ULW recoil system? That seems to be the lightest setup, but using a reduced power rifle spring in a car buffer tube. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not pretty, but runs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the parts list for my build. No SBR restrictions in my area, so I used an 8.5" barrel. Substitute barrel for KVP or Faxon for your length and you should be good to go. Runs best with CAR spring, so may want to just get the KVP 7.5 oz buffer, instead of their kit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk