ltdmstr

I really don't understand this comment. I have a bunch of 1911s/2011s in 9, 40 and 45, and all are 100% reliable without fail. The current gun I'm shooting is a SV Limited gun with 100k+ rounds of major pf ammo through it. So, maybe you need to find a different gunsmith or something because reliability should not be an issue with any quality 1911/2011. And certainly not anything CZs that constantly break slide stops, etc.

I would not recommend APW based on past experience. Sent them an SV for DLC refinish. Their work was marginal, delivery time was longer than quoted, and they billed for more than what we agreed.

I'd get an EGW to keep as a spare and have it fit/tuned so it's ready to drop right in if necessary.

Bottom line is, given a choice, most would prefer to shoot a 2011. You have better function with the SAO trigger (although not necessarily a performance advantage), better durability and reliability, familiarity with the platform for many/most, and many more options for parts and customization.

I've used 10k+ Fiocchi SPPs in my 2011s and never had a single problem. I'd say it's a pretty safe bet the lighter striker spring is the cause. Maybe go back to stock and see what happens. If you want to run a real light striker spring, you'll probably have to use Federal primers, which have the softest cup.

I just chrono'd some loads with 165g SNS coated bullets and 5.0g N320 at 1.180" OAL and those made just over 135 pf in a 5" gun.

You don't shorten the disconnector unless it's out of spec. Like most other moving parts, it helps to polish the contact surfaces, both on the disconnector, and on the frame. This includes the hole in the frame where the disconnector protrudes, and the bottom of the slide where it rides. If the slide is hanging up, check for proper assembly and proper spear spring engagement where it contacts the bottom of the disconnector at the trigger stirrup. It also helps to bevel the leading edge of the disconnector rail on the slide, if that's not done already.

If you need info from H&M, Ritt in FL and Bear in OH are both very helpful. Not sure about AZ. For shipping, I think the least expensive way to do it under current rules is to send parts via USPS or other carrier yourself and have an FFL ship the receiver. And include a prepaid label for return shipping direct to you.

A complete gun by H&M is $250. Shipping cost will probably add another $50-$100, unless you're an FFL.

I've tried most of the available finishes, including hot tank bluing, chrome, nickel, DLC, PVD, etc. And basically settled on H&M Black Nitride as my top choice. It's great for durability, super fast turn around, and very affordable. I recently had a complete DLC refinish done on a SV that I put a new top end on and seriously regret it. Could have had a better finish from H&M at probably 1/8 of the cost.

Um, it's usually a good idea to remove the mag before you check for clear and drop the hammer.

Nice work!

They aren't. I installed all the standard EGW parts in mine and they work fine. Only difference I recall is the mainspring, which was shorter. But I changed out the ms housing and am using a standard Wolff spring.

I just don't think it makes sense. Like you said, it traps a bunch of dirt and crud and keeps it there. If you're worried about the grip getting stuck to the frame, you can use a tiny bit of anti-seize on the mating surfaces. Oil is perfectly fine for everything else.

You might want to go and actually read the definition of negligence in OED, Webster's, and/or Black's. Because none of those agree with what you're saying.

Saw a post on reddit that the USPSA president is out. Not clear if he was forced out, resigned, or what. Anyone know if that's correct and what happened? Not looking to start a b*tch-fest, just trying to find out what's going on.

Ok. We're not talking about grease, but lubricant. Which is oil, like in the above photo. That's different than the grease the use when they assemble the gun (which I specifically requested they not use on mine).

Maybe that's where they get it, but the stuff they sent with my gun def isn't the same as commercial Lucas gun lube. Here's a photo of the two side by side. The SV stuff, on the right, is way darker, and way heavier viscosity. Maybe they start with the Lucas stuff and add something to it, or blend it with something else. I dunno.

I actually have a New Balance store nearby. Maybe I'll go have a look.

Is the sole rigid enough to use on ranges that are all gravel/rock? Soft soles make for a pretty miserable experience on those.

Not sure about the source of the SV stuff, but it's not the same as the Lucas lubricant. They're both blue, but the SV stuff is darker color and higher viscosity.

Zero/Roze Distribution is also an option for jacketed.

Not much of a sale. Current prices on CCI small pistol are: Mass Ammo = $78/k Target Sports = $79.80/k Republic Ammo - $85/k

Six in bull barrels are available from Bar-Sto, KKM, SV, and others. Those can easily be cut and recrowned at 5.4" or whatever length you want. Six inch slides are available from Caspian, SV, Warwick and probably others. Those can also be cut down as needed. It's a pretty simple project for a gunsmith, or DIY, if you have the tools and skills to do the work.

If done correctly, a TiG weld repair will be stronger than the base metal. So, I definitely wouldn't be considered a weak spot. And there should be zero cause for concern. But, again, that's assuming it's done correctly. Also, every 2011 frame I know of is made from bar stock. Which should be quite suitable for TiG welding. Cast frames like Caspian are a different story.