igolfat8

Can someone post a picture of an empty brass case seated in a 9mm TSO barrel? I’d like to see the relationship of the case head to how far it sits in relation to the hood. I reamed my chamber today and far that I may have ruined my barrel because my case sets flush with the flat portion of my barrel that mates to the breach face.

What brand of oil is included with the TSO? There is a small bottle of oil in my case but there is no mention of the brand.

Out of curiosity, do you run a recoil spring buffer? What PF loads do you run and what recoil spring? Thx...

Where can one purchase a TSO 9mm slide stop? CZC and Cajun seem to be out of them.

I had it happen on the top of the cruciform, where the striker rides the trigger bar. It was on a Johnny Glock trigger. I notified him and he told me to just polish it with 600 and it would be fine. I did, and it’s fine.

I’m running 130Pf loads and the stock 16 lb spring chucked brass into the next county. I put in the 13 and it wasn’t any better then the 11# spring and it wasn’t any better either. What makes these things toss brass to kingdom come? I thought lighter springs would reduce the distance the brass is ejected. The 16# spring made the dot settle back to POA while the 11# made the do dip below POA and the13# made the dot settle above POA. Does this sound normal?

I use a Carver frame dot mount and the Carver thumb rest bolted on the side of the mount. Works great.

EGW makes a great slide racker that fits perfectly. Part number 11772.

I’ll try that. Thanks Sarge.

I had powder spills when my shell plate stopped moving and I fixed that with a bearing kit, low mass ball and spring kit. Now I have a new problem. When the ram goes up and the shell plate plastic cam comes OFF of the angle cam driver, it makes an audible click and the powder in the case jumps verticallly out of my 9mm case. I tried searching for “powder spills” but all topics were about when the shell plate rotates or stops rotation. My problem happens only on vertical movement of ram and has nothing to do with shell plate rotation. Anyone else seen this or solved this problem?

We shoot 10 pins and 2 steel poppers at 30’. Max of 20 rounds and mandatory reload. Our record is 7.90. The poppers keep everyone honest so loads aren’t too light.

I can assure you it works quite well on CENTER hits. Wing a pin and it just spins like a winged hit with any caliber. I use to follow the thought process of bigger is better but have been converted to faster is mo-betta. It's really easy to see the effect just testing different weights and velocities on a steel plate rack. Velocity will always trump mass in steel plate knock down power. Call it BS all you want until you try it for yourself. Shoot a 125 grain bullet at lower velocity and then shoot the same bullet at 38 super speeds and watch the plate bounce back up and laugh in your face.

In our local matches you only have to drive REAL bowling pins off a 12" wide shelf. I have shot matches where you have to drive them off a 4' wide plywood table too and 9s do just fine with center hits there too. Deeper tables have fizzled out because it gets expensive replacing plywood tables every week from novice shooters pulling shots low and destroying the tables. 45's used to rule around here too but when its a race against the clock 45's just can't compete with 9s. Back to the original question, my normal loads are: 120 Cast Lee TC, coated, over 4.2 WSF, 133 PF. 95 Cast Lee RNFP, coated, 8.0 grains of HS-6, 155PF for deeper 4' tables 95 Cast Lee RNFP, coated, 4.6TG, 126PF, for shallow 12" shelves

They tried that years ago when 38 supers came out. They cast 45s using pure Linotype trying to get lighter and faster bullets but it was a flop against the knockdown power of the faster and lighter 125 grain 38 supers. Now we are pushing 95s to 1600 plus FPS to accomplish the same thing at faster speeds and lower costs over the 38 supers.

There are only two .45 hold outs around here shooting pins. No 38 super or .40 shooters anymore either. Everyone else has switched to 9s. It’s hard to argue with the timer results. And by the way the 45 shooters are no longer competitive against most of the 9 shooters.

I’ve shot pins for the last 7 years. Started with a .45 then moved to a .40 and now for the last 4 years I shot 9 exclusively. I can tell you that 9s will shoot the lowest times. I can also tell you that you do NOT need a heavy bullet because that is outdated thinking. What we have found is that even 95s work well if they have enough velocity and bullet velocity matters more than bullet weight.

I just joined the TSO club today and I am thrilled with my 9mm pistol. I’ve been watching CZ Custom website for weeks for a red dot mount but they have been out of stock. This is the one I am looking for: https://czcustom.com/multi-optic-side-scope-mount.html Does anyone know if there are other mounts available for a Burris FF III? Or perhaps someone has one in their parts stash collecting dust?

I've ordered a few items from him and he has been fast to respond to questions. I ordered items one day, was notified they were shipping the following day and I had items three days later to Ohio all the way from Alaska! I have zero complaints.

I’ve shot 10’s of 1000’s of 95’s in my comp'd 34 and 17. Lee cast, Hi-Tek coated. 1.035” COAL 5.2, n320 7.6 HS6 6.0 WSF 3.8 Clays 4.6 TG 4.6 Sport Pistol

I’ve got two 9mm Titans and they flat out run. The slide feels like it’s on ball bearings and the 1# trigger is the best I’ve ever felt.

I shoot coated lead exclusively in my comps too and Kroil applied with a Q-tip has always worked for me. May I suggest you try not submerging it but only coating it and see if that makes a difference? Yep, I just stumbled on the brake fluid thing by pure accident. I use el cheapo Valuecraft brake fluid but I doubt the brand really makes a difference. My KKM barrels get carbon stained around the hood and chamber and the brake fluid dissolves the stains in 10 minutes.

After shooting, saturate your comp internal ports with Kroil, applied liberally with a Q-tip. Allow it to soak over night. The next day, shoot a few rounds through it and it will blow all the accumulated chunks of lead or carbon out. Kroil won’t remove burnt powder stains so after shooting it, you can use the same technique to apply brake fluid (not brake cleaner) to the burnt powder stains. Allow it to soak for 10 minutes and flush with your favorite solvent and it will be as shiny and clean as new.

I just ordered one, thanks.

When I clicked your link it says the item is no longer available?

Can someone PM me his contact info?