igolfat8

There have been lots of debates against bullet weights and which has more "knock down" power. Do the math and weigh all you want ... but shoot a high velocity 95 against a slower moving 124 and witness for yourself which one will slap the plate down with more authority.

I shoot a lot of 95 cast / powder coated boolits and for the record they will knock down 8” steel plates and pepper poppers quite easily. I’ve got several loads all loaded at 1.030” COAL and ALL of these loads will knock steel down. 9mm - 95 Grain LFP bullet, PC, Glock 34 with comp: N320- 5.2, 130 PF HS6 - 7.6, 132 PF HS6 - 7.8, 135 PF WSF - 6.0, 130 PF Clays - 3.8, 120 PF Tite Group - 4.6, 127 PF Sport Pistol - 4.8, 128 PF Disclaimer, these loads are mine and not meant to be trusted as factory published loads. If you choose to use these loads you do so at your own risk! Certainly heavier bullets will allow the shooter to be sloppier with their aim. However, if you hit the plate in the center or higher the 95s work fine.

I’ve got two Atlas Titans and they have been 100% trouble free from the get go. Slide feels like it’s on bearings and the trigger is the best that I’ve ever shot or felt, period! I’d certainly recommend a call to Adam at Atlas to see what he could do for you within your budget. You would NOT be disappointed. BTW, I’m a huge Glock fanboy too and Bob Vogel does quite well with his, especially for being an unsponsored shooter. Don’t overlook Glock just because of its lower pricepoint because they are extremely reliable and you can win with one too without a trip to shop at LV.

+1, ^What he said ^

I’ve got carver mounts on three glocks. Very stable mount for fast fire threes. Their Thumb rest is worth it too. BTW, I use a 34 for pins. Works fine and faster than a 45.

Thanks for posting that picture. Would it be safe to say that I have 140mm magazines?

I have MBX magazines that came with my Atlas Titan. Where do you measure the magazine to determine its length? Do you measure with or without base pad? Do you measure from base to case head end or bullet nose end? I also need to know if I have gen 1 or 2 tubes. I watched the MBX video but its very difficult to tell in the video how to determine the difference between the two tubes. Adriann talks about the indent in the tube but the video doesn't show a clear image of what he is talking about.

6-1/2” free length of a 9# spring, compressed length is 1-7/16”.

I was sorting through some recoil springs and thought some “felt” a different rate than others in the same rate. I needed a way to measure spring rate but couldn’t find an simple method in the search function. So .... I took my pistol cleaning rod (minus the jag) and slid a flat washer on it and then a recoil spring. I placed the spring vertically on my digital postal scale. Then I pressed down on the flat washer to compress the recoil spring on the pistol cleaning rod. I read the weight on the postal scale and darn if it wasn’t pretty close to the rated spring weight. I measured all of the springs I had and most were very close, within a few ounces. A couple were a pound to pound and a half off. At least this gives me a method to compare and measure my recoil springs now. Perhaps this method has been used before by others but if not give it a try.

Is yours a gen 4? If so, try medium or large back strap so with a firm HIGH grip, your finger tip just falls on the trigger. A larger blackstrap should eliminate the finger rub. When I say HIGh grip, view a YouTube “Robert Vogel Grip.”

I’ve experimented with most of the popular bullets and I’ve found the .357” cast 120 grain TC is the most accurate in most of my 9’s.

I cast and powder coat my own bullets. They are more accurate than plated or FMJ in my pistols though it did take some patience developing loads. This is typical sub 1” groups at 50’:

If you like N320, try some Sport Pistol after you use up the VV powder. SP is the Same load, cleaner burning, more accurate IME at half the cost of VV.

Oops, it’s a 9mm

Another vote for the Fort Knox box. I’ve got two of them and they are built like tanks and very reliable. No need for lighted buttons. You can easily feel them in the dark to open the box. There are only 5 buttons to push and you don’t need to push all of them at once.

What weight spring are you running in your Titan? I think Adam said my stock set up is a 10# spring. I was looking at a video of my pistol and it’s nose diving ever so slightly, as the slide returns to battery, with my minor load. I’ll probably drop the spring down a pound or two soon. Just wondering if anyone else has been down this road too?

Sig, EAA and 1911 guide rods won't work in Glocks. Carver Custom carries lots of guide rod and spring options.

Ever have a primer not go off because it's not seated deep enough? Or a primer that doesn't go off on first hit, yet goes off when you hit it a again? Primer pockets, over many rounds of reloading, build up spongy gunk, that can prevent a primer from seating. This gunk is soft and can act as a cushion which can absorb enough energy to not allow the anvil from setting off the primer.

You don't have a large primer pick up tube with a yellow small primer plastic end on it do you? The large tubes are same OD as small tubes, just have a larger ID, which would allow the primers to flip over internally. Pull the plastic ends off your tubes and compare the ID of the tubes. Also, you can flip primers over and insert them in the tube, upside down, if you push down on the edge of a primer. Pay close attention when picking up primers.

Did this problem just surface or has it always been an issue? Have you replaced anything in the shell plate or primer bar that is not OEM?

Hmm, I can't remember the last time I lost a primer on my 550 and I load >15K rounds per year on mine. You might want to call Dillon because something is awry. Is your shell plate loose or have a lot of play in it?

I wet tumble and Use SS pins. BB's won't fit into or clean primer pockets and that's the real benefit of wet tumbling IMO.

I don't know if it's better but it works. I've been using it to clean my guns for years. You can find it at any big box home improvement store or hardware store, in the paint department.

Not only is practice important but squeezing all the accuracy you can out of your gun will only come through finding the right load for it and that doesn't happen with factory ammo, unless you ride a unicorn. I'm not trying to talk you out of a Titan, heck I own two of them and they are EXCELLENT pistols but I agree with the others. Invest in a reloading rig first. I'd vote for a 550 which has served me well for 3 decades.

Denatured alcohol and Q tips. Doesn't get much simpler.