teros135

Folks say "inert", but I've never seen that in the rule book or any real discussion of gun safety.

Isn't there a rule, "All guns are loaded", that is the basis of safe gun handling? Remember Jeff Cooper? Isn't that why we treat guns with more respect than "it's no more than a broomstick"?

It doesn't contradict it, it clarifies it. What's not to understand? We simply can't do it.

That's a pretty good idea. Many of us started that way.

That's around 25k a year, or more. A progressive could save a lot of time and effort...

I'm gonna bet that's it. Back that sucker out some. When it moves freely, you'll also lose the extra flare, because you're putting less force on the case.

Do you have the charge screw turned all the way in, or nearly all the way? Mine did pretty much the same thing until I started to screw it out a bit, then it rotated smoothly. I'm loading 10.4 gr of AA7, so I don't know how far it has to be screwed in for, say, 3.1 gr of Titegroup. That'll come later. Actually, what I've done is to use my Dillon measure, with a Uniquetek micrometer adjustment and dual return springs instead of the Dillon "fail safe" rod. Works like a charm up to the Evo's max speed of 2500. The Evo measure is sitting to the side until they figure it out (and put a micrometer or marked dial on it). I've heard the Hornady rotary measure also works pretty well.

Good idea. (And call it "Evolution"? )

Agreed, as an Evo Pro owner.

I talked with Dan at Inline Fabrication about lighting. Their 1050 toolhead light (LED head w/ bracket) fits the Evo. I'd like to see them sell one with two lighting heads, since the Evo's tool head is so wide.

Nice work exploring the machine If you have the SwageSense, it should stop the press for those "ringers" you described, and for any pulled-back primers. Wally World sells a quite serviceable set of SAE/metric ball-end hex wrenches for $9.99. (Only a couple of the screws are metric.) I added a couple of individual open end wrenches just for the EVO. There's a parts diagram, with exploded views, on the Mark 7 Community. Also a variety of manuals and troubleshooting documents - but not enough yet. And we're building a community of knowledgeable users, which is what most successful products need.

I had mine running 38sc with 10.5 AA7 at 2500 RPH for a while this evening. Started by running it manually as I set it up, working up to speed gradually. As they say (you know, "they") the press has to be running 100% before you can automate it. I'm still trying to get the bullet sensor to aim right and stay aimed; it's a touchy little thing. Most everything else is working.

Also, the pawl, and its adjusting screw, moves toward you when the toolhead is in the up position, so you can get at it (as seen in Allenmat's pics above). When the toolhead is down it retracts and is like the "black hole" you described. It's on the left side, between the main guide rod and Station 8.

I'm betting they will.

Here's another piece. They say they're working on a new drum linkage that accelerates it more gradually in the early part of the drum's movement, so it "traps" a consistent volume of powder. Hope it comes soon.

Yes, we got that, a while ago. Is there something new?

They do fix them, and get them back to you. The micros are all somewhat fussy, and their customer service helps quite a bit.

They're always thinking. It's a sort of modular design.

FYI, newer Evos (last couple of months) have a mysterious threaded hole (1/4-20 or so) on the underside of the case feed "box". A case slide locking device may be coming our way.

I'd note that the Armanov spring only helps the die's inner tube return to the downward position. It doesn't push the bullet into the case; that's done by the weight of the bullet stack in the feeder tube (gravity). As such, the spring supplied by the Armanov is *way* too strong. I'm going to see if I can find a lighter one at Lowes.

This. (It needed to be said.)

Like gng4life and Jack said. A quiet, polite feedback ("counseling", as it were) is helpful and welcome. They can see what we can't. I've thanked ROs for this several times. OTOH, "it was close, I could have DQ'd you" actually means "it wasn't a DQ", so don't say it, just give the feedback. Thanks!

Yes, that's apparently the current issue. They told me the workaround is to set the charge for the speed the machine is running. Also, the problem with the charge adjustment rod coming loose doesn't seen to have been fixed. The thumb screw backs out even after being tightened with a wrench (the newer one has flats on it, as seen on one of LowBoost's pics above).

Not the first time...

Don't feed the troll, guys.