teros135

Uh, Storeg? Who?

Right back to "I want what I want, and to heck with everybody else"...

Uh, oh - he's on to us!

My Shadows both run Win, CCI, and Rem consistently with a 11.5 hammer spring, extended FP, and CZC or stock hammer. Haven't tried other primers.

Indeed you do, Sarge. You run a good match, and it'll be my pleasure to shoot at least of your L2s this year.

Gosh, it would be great to have your resources and skills, but most of us are regular folks who don't have lathes and mills and machinist skills. That's what we expect the engineers and craftsmen at the manufacturer to have. And with the limited-time warranty, at some point we're going to be out of luck. I just wish we could have more confidence in the machine and the support.

...but not necessarily a good idea at L2. We've all run across too many of the untrained, uninformed, "let's use them because we don't have enough trained people", who can be pretty distracting. OTOH, I'm certainly thankful for all those who give their time to make matches happen. It's a dilemma, I guess.

No, flagging is not equivalent to holstering. It's a necessary part of safeing the gun, but you still have to bag or case the gun, in a container (bag or case) that makes the trigger inaccessible and incapable of being manipulated (like a holster does - both of them per the rules). You can't have someone handling a gun (other than holding it muzzle up or down) without both a flag and a case (except at a safe area or under the direction and control of a RO, of course).

It sounds like you have an older machine. What are you planning to do about the lubrication problem with the "top pin"? The set screw on the bottom of the ram was only part of the problem; the other is that there's no way to lube that pin, other than dripping oil on it at the gaps between the bottom of the ram and the arms of the upper crank and hope that it somehow migrates into the pin itself. The other pins (center pin and the crank itself) have holes in the extrusion (body) to get a grease gun in, but the top pin doesn't. Strangely, there's no mention of lubing the top pin in the manual (at least the Evolution manual) or the lubrication guide (Daily Hardware Check and Lubrication Guide). That's a load-bearing part, and it's odd there's no mention of lubrication. Hopefully, they're doing something different on the new machines, both Evo and Revo.

Yes, we do read the OP. You want a new Division to satisfy your own needs (don't we all!). But we already have 7 divisions, three of which have optics. In any of them, you shoot heads-up against others who have similar equipment. You'd be as "competitive", relatively speaking, in Open or CO as you would in any other division.

Uh, no. There's already a very fine (and still kind of newish) division for you - Carry Optics. Lots of fun. Or, go all the way and shoot in "Open", also with a dot and has that nice 1911-type trigger. Lots of options. Enjoy!

Slavex, which set screw had to be re-positioned? Was it the one at the bottom of the ram, that secures the Top Pin?

Yeah. It's not an interpretation, it's the rule. My CO gun doesn't have the slide racker ears on the plate, for that reason.

The RL1050/1100 should be reliable and easy to work with, once you get accustomed to its nuances (same as for any other complex tool). Changeovers aren't overly costly and not too time consuming. Dillon is very responsive to questions and parts needs, and parts cost is reasonable (and sometimes free). Both load ammo, and both can be automated. I have both, and considering reputation, reliability, and responsiveness, I'd go with Dillon.

After the M7 Evo fiasco, I decided not to be an early adopter any more. Hope DAA will get it together as they gain more field experience and this eventually shows its promise.

Yeah. Everything should go. Thanks for sharing.

This. Happy DAA primer filler owners, please chime in!

When I had trouble with the Brass Marker's motor, DAA had me send it in, and they replaced the motor and got it back to me quickly. No problems since. BTW, the Sharpie Brush Tip markers work well. I weight them with a lock nut from Lowes. Any marker works better when the brass doesn't have lube on it, but these do okay even with light lube (I use Brass Juice or One Shot). My RF100 can be fussy to adjust (esp for Win primers), but it runs fine for the most part. I'd try a DAA primer filter if I didn't have the RF.

Interestingly, that's a whole lot more information about how the device works, and how to adjust it, than certain other mfrs have given us. I think the issue isn't that they've provided us with this handy troubleshooting guide but whether the machine isnreliabe and does its job, right from the factory. With this guide, we can keep it that way.

How do we know what made the hole?

There's theory, and there's how it actually works out there in the field. Ultimately, if it works for you, buy it. If it doesn't, don't.

I think we should all pitch in. "Somebody else should do it" is just a bunch of crap. I just donated $25. Anybody else?

Uh, no. I just checked on a local match registration, and there's nothing new, payment- wise. They do ask for donations periodically, which is fair considering what we get from them. Practiscore Competitor does have an app fee, which is downright reasonable for a true "killer app".

Agreed. Mine usually last at least 10k rounds. I have one held aside for major matches.

I've tumbled Bayou, Black, and Blue bullet cartridges for 5 minutes to remove lube (One Shot or now Brass Juice, my new favorite). No problems. Tumbling helps the Sharpie marking stripes stick better.