kneelingatlas

"Just a sec guys, we need more score sheets..."

Yes, I used an oil called Tap Magic and lots of it.

It's a cone comp,but just the part in front of the slide measures 2.130".

Specifically CZ parts for polishing.

Has anyone ever stripped down their pistol and dumped all the internals in the tumbler? I've heard it done with mag tubes, but never parts...

My CZ is still tight after a few thousand rounds of 170+PF 9mm loads.

First order of business will be to chop away some of the extra metal for the comp: Right now the comp looks like this: I plan to open up the first port: Then maybe experiment with drilling barrel holes until it flattens out to my liking

Drill the hole for the guide rod (I wish I had some sharper bits...): After trimming the slide a little more, it's actually turning out pretty well The cone and breach are still a little tight, but that sure beats the alternative... A little more fitting and it will be ready to test fire. I now have three compensated top ends for my small frame Open gun (standard length, compact and now my custom 'middy'):

I haven't posted a project update in a while, but here's what I've been working on (albeit very slowly; with a new baby in the house, minutes in the garage are few and far between ). I bought this 9x21 small frame on GB a while back: It was a long slide with a 5 1/2" barrel, I shot some 9x19 Major loads out of it, and it shot OK, the comp was less than impressive, it was super long/heavy and it might just be mental but something just doesn't feel right about shooting 9x19 out of a 9x21 barrel. So I used the 9x21 barrel for an SSE kit (CA thing...) and decided this would be a great top end to experiment with. It's pretty common to cut the length of a 1911 slide, but I'd never heard it done to a CZ75 pattern pistol (I would later realize why ) so I decided to cut 3/4" off the slide and use a 4 3/4" 9x19 barrel I had kicking around. The first problem to deal with is the recoil system: unlike a 1911, the recoil spring rests on a ridge machined into the front of the slide so I needed to replicate that ridge. I though of welding up the hole and re drilling it, but the inside would be all bumpy so I decided to drill it out, tap it, loctite in a 7/16x20 set screw, then drill a smaller hole through the middle of the set screw for the guide rod. I quickly realized this was not the path of least resistance as the slide was HARD! real HARD!!! I usually just turn the chuck by hand when tapping, but this was too hard, I moved to an 18" pipe wrench, but when the jaws began to slip on the smooth sides of the tap I resorted to turning the tap with a crescent wrench on the tap itself. I progressively cut the slide, tapped some more, repeat... Right until... Well, I think that's enough threads After using a punch and hammer to shatter the tap still in the slide I inserted the set screw:

These are all sold. Thanks

Do you have a .40 SP01? I've never seen one; but yes, it will work the same way.

I was just about to suggest keeping it if you're not hard up for the cash; if you're not shooting the hell out of them guns hold their value pretty well in the long run.

I have some lonely large frame base pads looking for a home: One black Henning and two silver EAA, all large frame; how about $60 shipped for all three?

I wasn't crazy about the feel of the Sprinco, actual reduction of recoil was very slight, but it added a little bounce.

The new factory barrels need to be fit at the breech face, but a used 9 barrel will drop right in a 40 slide.

The original springs would be measured in kilos, so replacement springs won't be exact, I know in my TS the stock hammer spring was somewhere in the neighborhood of 16-17# and the recoil spring was 12-13#. If you're shooting powder puff minor loads I'm thinking 10# recoil spring and 15-20# hammer spring depending on your preference for a light trigger or a crisp trigger.

You can simplify your comparison, a Limited gun is the same as an Open gun except without the comp and dot (both almost always only reload once, so the big stick is much less significant); ask Open shooters "comp or dot? you have to give one up" I'd put money on the vast majority keeping the dot.

There is another recurve DA/SA trigger which is black and looks like this: As you can see, it's a larger radius than the new style: Here's the old style:

New style trigger sitting atop the old one. I like the old style because I have big hands/long fingers and it puts the trigger further away.

You couldn't let the others be jealous, just for a few minutes?? Now please excuse me while I go tell those kids their parents are lying about Santa

Stock III? Looks like a standard steel frame with a Match slide to me...

I resisted reloading for a while, but since I've started I'll never buy off the shelf again!

That's the point of that particular classifier!

If you don't reload, don't waste your money on an Open gun; trust me, I started a thread just like this one once upon a time. I shot factory ammo through my first compensated pistol and was astounded that the comp did nothing, literally, nothing. I took off the comp and the pistol felt exactly the same. I would later find out that the principles involved in making good ammo are opposite when using a comp. In a pistol with no comp a small charge of fast powder behind a heavy bullet will produce the softest shooting load. A compensator uses expanding gasses to resist the recoil and muzzle flip so the more gas the flatter the gun; slow burning powder makes more gas because you need more powder to make the same velocity, so the best load for a comp is a light bullet with a large charge of slow powder. This same load without the comp results in much more recoil for any given projectile and velocity than a faster powder, so since 99.9% of their customers are not using compensators, there is no incentive for manufacturers to sell such a round.