HOGRIDER

Curious if its common to "cut" a few coils off the mainspring. New experience for me....... Also, I have always preferred a "glass rod break" type trigger with a primary and secondary sear face. Do most competitors now use/prefer a "roll" trigger with a radiused sear face? Thanks for any/all feedback! BTW: Pic of my mainspring next to a verified, premium 17# spring.

Search will turn up some great resources...........

Started thinking, after reading this thread, of a reasonable/not too expensive way of checking the actual seated primer depth with some sort of accuracy other than using the tip of my slide micrometer. A brief search came up with what I considered a reasonably priced "tool" that would work perfectly with my Starrett .125" dial indicator! So I ordered one of F&FB's Primer Depth Fixtures; and it works PERFECTLY! https://fastandfriendlybrass.com/product/ffb-primer-pocket-depth-checking-fixture/ Since I haven't determined exactly where I want to mount it yet; I just chucked it up in the soft jaws of my vise and was pleasantly surprised with how easy and accurate it is to determine an exact primer depth! For those loaders that need/want to have an accurate way of setting up your primer seating depth plus having an option to do a quick check; then I highly recommend trying one!

Study this drawing to determine your current equipment:

https://www.markvii-loading.com/ Plus: Free, spare Tool Head!!!!

Yea, I remember tuning the flipper on the RL1100 took me a few tries to get it just right. The Apex 10 doesn't have a provision to bolt up a flipper; but as of now, it has not been an issue and feeding has been perfect!

FWIW: I have upgraded an XL650, an RL1100, and now the Apex 10 with DAA case feeder plates; and they have improved the case feeding to the point that I have experienced ZERO issues with any I have upgraded! Highly recommended!

@SSGJohnV is definitely an asset to the company! Always enjoy his videos and live feeds!

A good example of what can be expected with the Apex 10's latest priming system. I also encourage his smooth, consistent rhythm with a bit of dwell at the top and bottom depending on powder used..........

Upgrade to the DAA plate and your case feeder issues will be eliminated! https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-turbo-case-feeder-plate

I also consider the "residual weight" to be a part of the equation.........IOW, there is friction (weight, commonly 6-12oz) between the hammer hooks and sear face being applied by the mainspring alone! Without a sear spring! IMO, a safe fire control system needs at least 16oz on the disconnector..........

Came from an RL1100 to the manual Apex 10, and I can honestly say when set up correctly and kept clean the priming system is 99% trouble free! I had many more issues with the RL1100's priming system that became a PIA on the first batch of reloads. I have heard that the FW Arms priming linkage system has definitely been an improvement. https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/priming/f-w-arms-primetime/ Having 10 stations available has been a HUGE improvement to the safety and overall experience; and my goal of eventually automating (digitally) and including the Primer Orientation Sensor among others will be the final "icing on the cake" for me! IMO, primer issues will always be the #1 concern with these entry level "commercial grade" machines. Having a complete and thorough knowledge of the operating parameters and maintenance requirements will always be the key........ I highly recommend the Apex 10; and their Customer Support is EXCELLENT!!!

This is an OLDER video showing the basic operation of the PAL Filler. I think there have been upgrades since then; specifically there's no need to manually hold the Dillon primer tube during filling.

I got in on a group buy here 3 years ago, and have to say the PAL filler has performed flawlessly! Only maintenance was to replace the batteries; and have to say it will fill a tube with Federal Match primers in about 30 seconds. Would recommend contacting @Sarge to see if they are still available; or contact Umberto Pallavicino on FB if you use that form of Social Media............

Got the new LO Comp and before developing a new load from scratch, decided to try my previous Match load that was producing excellent results in the P320 MAXX in CO. It was a "warmer load" that the KKM barrel preferred. Produced excellent results in the LOC but was in the 138-139PF. Decided to start a ladder test to see how the accuracy/performance was in the 130-132PF range. Narrowing it down with 0.1g reductions put me right where I wanted to be! HTHs!

Have ladder test results for my LO Comp using 124g JHPs with N330. May not be of any value since your using 147g and N320......

@steveac1 The shrink wrap worked great! Thanks for sharing your information!

Understand. If so, then a call to M7's Customer Service may be in order. Their support is EXCELLENT! Here's a vid that discusses the importance of Calibration. Should be applicable to any press: Also there's an older video dedicated just to the Dillon S1050 that may also help:

Don't have an Autodrive on my Apex 10 at the moment; but do plan on adding it in the near future.......... Looking at the User Manual for the Dillon S1050 (1100) Autodrive, it details the SD Card location on page 63 under "Software and Firmware Update Instructions". Also, as with all M7 Autodrives, during initial setup the autodrive must be calibrated with the shell plate EMPTY. Also, we have to make sure NONE of the dies are contacting the shell plate when the tool head is completely lowered. Also reference Page 58 in the User Manual. HTHs! And good luck with your Autodrive! I'm sure you'll truly enjoy it once it's fully operational!

I definitely would like to see the priming system updated for the Apex 10! My research contact provided this statement: Fingers crossed!

Yes, actually had a good phone conversation with Lance. Since my hopper is in close proximity of the bullet and case feeders, I wanted to run it with the lid. So I had a friend use his mill and drill a nice vent hole. This 10 drop sample came out perfect with the vented lid in place. And when I'm finished with my run I can stick a piece of tape across the hole till next time. Guess I'm set in my ways; as this was how I used the stock Dillon PM for many years!

While finalizing some ladder load testing (0.1g change), I would take additional time to weight out 10 charges and average. Happen to leave the o-ringed Dram Worx hopper lid off while doing a specific average, and noticed some definite difference in the final weighed average vs having the solid lid in place on the hopper. Unlike the Dillon stock hopper lid that contains a hole in the middle, the DW is a nice, solid, o-ringed air tight lid. By having this confirmed difference in powder weights, I started to wonder if there was a sort of "vacuum" being created in the top of the measure that could affect the actual weights. A Google search of reasons for the hole in the standard Dillon Cap took me straight to a thread that posted here 9 years ago: Dillon Precision directly states this in one of the posts: Has anyone here had a similar experience with the Dram Worx hopper? When I was using the stock Dillon hopper/cap, I would always keep a piece of tape covering the cap hole; and remove it while loading. FWIW: I'm strictly using VV N330 powder; and seriously considering putting a small "vent" hole in the DW cap......... Thanks for any opinions/feedback!

For those with Fac*B**k............. https://fb.watch/lIuLI-hAjC/ Another video about "how" to first load the Ultra Max springs and followers......

@JuggernautWondering if you got ahold of Matt at MBX customer service?