Meangun

no doubt about that and I will try it!

Thought about that before I started reloading the rounds. Called Dillon and they said use the RN side as there was plenty of ogive for the stem to reference on the HP bullet to center and seat against. Flat side should only be used with semi wad cutters where there is no ogive to reference off then you'll be at the mercy of the consistency of the bullet lengths regarding COAL.

Press was set up exactly as you described. Case in every station to keep the same amount of pressure on the shell plate so there is no flex when the ram is up, dies are down and locked in place.

Sorry! And I meant to type that too! lol 550 B #1 Dillon Sizing #2 Dillon Flare/Powder #3 Dillon Seater (RN Stem) #4 Lee FCD

In everyone's opinion, what is an acceptable range of variance when loading 9mm 124gr Hollow Points that call for a COAL of 1.060" The brass is a cornucopia of brands as this is pick up off the range of the PD i work for. The only reason I have been checking multiple loaded rounds now is that I'm loading for my Sig P226 X-Five. COAL ranges from 1.060-1.075 Mixed Brass GM100 primers VV N330 Xtreme 124 HP 550 B #1 Dillon Sizing #2 Dillon Flare/Powder #3 Dillon Seater (RN Stem) #4 Lee FCD Thanks in advance for any input.

The seating die has an insert that has a flat botton vs. the recessed bottom for Flat Points etc. There is a pin that is pulled out of teh seatind stem and the insert swapped out. I use my 550 w/ case feeder for my 52.

What makes the M2 so much softer shooting? It is inertia driven just like the M1 series correct?

Can anyone tell me the main diffrences between these two shotguns? Also, how nay diffrent configurations of the Practical were there? I remember seeing them when they had a muzzle break on them. I always thought they were removable. I am now hearing that they were not. Also, were all the variations ported? From what I understand about teh Tactical is that it has a shorter barrel than the practical and comes with a removable comp with interchangable chokes. I'm confused and have no idea which one to buy. Please help.

The raeson I want to tuble is because I am using lube for my high volume reloading cartridges. My 9mm are flat points so the concern about setting off a primer is not great. In trying to get as much use out of my carbide dies I figured I would use libe on these. I put about 200 cases in a zip lock, give it about 4-5 pumps and then shake the bag up. i then let them air dry for about an hour or two. Do you think I'm using to much Dillon lube?

Might have been covered b4. What is the general opinion on tumbling loaded ammo? I want to tumble some loaded ammo for about 10 minutes just to get the excess dillon lube odd of the cases. Is this ok to do or will I be hurting something in the long run? TIA.

I just got off my press with a load for this. I am running 2.4gr of Clays behind a 122gr fp. Metters fine. no issues. Needless to say the load is very light. Accuracy is great, off a rest I'm doing 3/4" groups at 50 feet. Still working some bugs out of the gun since the load is so light. I think 99% of the problems stem from magazine issues.

Is there anyone who makes a charge bar smaller than Dillon's xtra small? I am trying to load for .32 S&W long and believe I saw a charge bar out there that had circular inserts almost like the MEC shotgun reloaders. Any help would be great.

For the lightest recoil possible and the best accuracy do I want a light bullet going above 1Kfps or do I want to keep it under 1K fps?

btt

By this time I was dead tired as it was 1:00am. The bullet tray was mounted to it's support via 4 nuts and bolts privided then attached to the left side of the strong mount as so with teh remaing two bolts in the hardware kit provided with the bullet tray. I also installed the aluminum roller handle. I was so tired a forgot to snap a pic. Mine went on without any clearance problems. I used both washers and it rubbed against nothing. I must be one of the lucky ones. At any rate, this is what you end up with for all your hard work. The only thing left was to install the casefeed plate. Depending on what caliber you have you may have to install a washer supplied with case feed assembly. It is straight forward and I also did not take pics of that. MAKE sure you do not over tighten the screws on the clutch assembly. In the event that yo have a jam it will alow the plate to stop but the motor to keep spinning and not burn out. FYI, for .38spl DO NOT use the washer as recommended. The hight created by it caused jams in my machine. With teh exception of the casefeed plate issue if you take your time and set things up you will have no issues. Following what I did I put back on my .38 tool head, never readjusted and strated cranking out rounds right away. No bounce back, no crushed cases, nothing! Well, I hope thsi helps and I didnt waste my time. Good Luck Everyone and thanks for a great product Dillon!!!