HOGRIDER

Joe: I'll try and jump in with my $.02 worth....... After starting my 9mm reloading adventure many years ago, I decided to go with the heavier bullets. Primarily 147g. I then decided to switch to 124/125 and was really surprised at the decreased OALs I was encountering with various bullets. After a lot of research, I decided to try and stabilize at 1.125". All was well until I started shooting a CZ Shadow 2 Orange; and it required a 1.080" OAL to meet my "plunk" requirements! I actually developed a load at that OAL which grouped under 1" at 20yds using the Ransom Rest. So I standardized with that OAL as my Match load which used Precision Delta 124g JHPs. Later on, I started competing with a Sig P320 MAXX; and after installing a KKM match barrel, I stayed at that same OAL and bullet. I did switch from VV N320 powder to VV N330; but still had excellent success with the 1.080" OAL. And now, I'm using the same combo with just a slight adjustment to the powder weight in my Limited Optics 2011 pistol! If you take the time to measure the OAL of several FACTORY 124/125g loads, I think you'll be surprised at just how short most factory ammo is when using this bullet size/weight. My recommendation is to take YOUR BARREL, along with a few dummy rounds, and find what the MAX OAL is for YOUR BARREL using your preferred bullet(s)! I've always used this procedure regardless of pistol type: https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=103620.0 Once you've found your preferred OAL, then you can look at the load manuals for your powder and interpolate a safe starting load and work from there to determine what your pistol likes! IMO, finding the right velocity will overshadow any minor changes in OAL. A good Chrono will prove invaluable during load development! Also attaching a pic that helps illustrate how different bullets will require a different OAL in the SAME BARREL! Sorry to be so long winded; but hope this helps!

Agreed! And I'm guessing that Black Friday will see HUGH discounts!

A 10 drop average, using VV N330, with a target weight of 4.3g.........

Not sure if you could operate a Dillon measure on the X10, but I adapted mine over to my Apex 10 and it works perfectly and yields excellent results! I have ran VV N310, N320, N330, and N340 through my Dillon measures; and IMO, VV N300 series powders meter with excellent consistency. My adaptation for the Apex 10.............

You may want to consider selling your aluminum grip and purchasing the MPA SS grip and competition magwell combo. My understanding is the MPA uses a proprietary grip similar to the Lone Star Innovations grip......

@JKP Yea, I've dealt with these type cases before; mainly they were Federal. But the cases were marked with NT (non-toxic) and easy to spot. I'm not sure if these Winchester's have had "nt" type primers also; there's no way to tell from the headstamp markings. And many if these have no "crimp ring" or crimp markings I can see. Just failing the pocket gauge down into the pocket BELOW the rim.... Thanks for your reply!

Not too hard to measure sear/hammer interface pull weight leaving the sear spring out. Usually 6-8oz and is added in with disconnector pull weight to see how much needs to be on the sear leg to reach your final desired total weight. Just IMO....

Agree! The confidence of knowing where it'll hit at longer distances definitely helps!

At the advice of the "veteran" shooters in this thread, I decided to check/sight the LOC at 25 and 50 yards. Shooting bench rested using a Caldwell plastic pistol rest........ Black dot is 1"; added the small white plate for a bit of contrast at 50yds. Sun was bright today! Couple of clicks in the windage, and I'm good to go! Thanks to everyone that contributed!

Seems Shay is providing some insight for those that do FB......... https://www.facebook.com/shay.akai/posts/pfbid0WKXz9WtXETNo2AxERp65mfM6rTiVhbrh85K1t4nGRpnMUxkTS1qVLwj11kNKcD5sl

Good advice!!!

Search is your friend!

https://www.1911forum.com/threads/proper-slide-to-frame-fitting.1001118/

I'm definitely partial to the Redding Pro Series dies! Put a new set of these on the Apex10, and getting excellent results! https://www.accuratearmsandammo.com/product/58172-redding-nxgen-comp-pro-series-die-set-9mm-luger/ Even though I haven't loaded any of the Norma brass, I've encountered my fair share of undersized flash holes in the Win brass I'm using! Installed the .057" BR pin and that stopped my issue. Also had to take pliers and give the decapping button a good tightening! I have never experienced bullet setback with the Redding dies; one of the reasons I've always preferred them! When I changed my setup recently, wanted to put a premium universal expander in Station 2 and decided on the FW Arms. Just didn't think to grab a couple of the .057" pins when I ordered the die........... IMO, a 10 Station Press is a game changer for single-pass pistol reloading! Thanks for your feedback!

@Nc1911 As I mentioned above I'm using fully/pre-processed brass that contain no primers. Plus, with the Apex 10's shell plate spring and case retention springs at Station 1, I haven't had an issue...yet....with partially inserted cases. The FW Arms decapper also has the auto case centering feature. I was previously sizing/depriming at Station 2 with a Redding Pro Sizing die and .057" pin; and using another Lee sizing die (without decapping rod, of course) at Station 4 to stabilize priming.. Making a significant (IMO) change to the priming system, I decided to move the Redding sizer to Station 4 and use the FW Arms "universal" decapper at Station 2. During an initial loading/testing session, I was experiencing a significant increase in handle resistance during the up-stroke. Decided to test a dozen or so empty cases through the first 5 stations, and found out the unusual resistance was coming from the .077" decapping pin coming "up and out" of the small flash hole cases. Even though my brass is same headstamp/pre-processed/primer-less, I still want a decapper in Station 1 just in case something slips through. Never noticed the Win undersized flash holes with the Redding .057" bench rest pin! Sorry to be so long winded; just wanted to share my unusual experiences. Thanks for your reply!

@Chillywig I agree with @36873687 that you can't believe everything you hear these days! IIRC, CK was a joint venture of Matt Cheely and Bobby Keigans. If so, I feel confident you could contact Matt Cheely and discuss your concerns! https://www.edgefirearmimports.com.au/ckarms/ IMO, shoot it till it "pukes" then do whatever it takes to fix it! Great looking pistol!!!!

I found out after setting up and loading with my new die, that a lot of my Win fully processed brass contain smaller than normal primer flash holes! The FWA die comes with a standard .077" pin along with 2 extras of the same size. Didn't really want to order a 5-pack of the .056" tips: https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/decapping-pins/package-of-5-replacement-small-flash-hole-tip-054-tip-diameter/ A fellow loader said he thought the Mighty Armory .057" pins were of the same threads/size/quality; and would be a direct replacement: https://www.mightyarmory.com/collections/pins-and-shafts/products/copy-of-decapping-pin-070-standard-or-055-lapua-heat-treated-and-tempered?variant=5097667788841 Anyone have first hand data on this? Or a couple of extra FWA pins they could part with? Thanks!

^^^^^^^ Been using the Redding Pro Sizer for MANY years along with Hornady One Shot; and this combo has never let me down! Highly recommended! https://www.accuratearmsandammo.com/product/87172-redding-nxgen-carbide-sizing-die-9mm-luger/

IMO, Assemble the pistol with OEM trigger to establish a base line of what STI had for pre-travel; and everything worked. Then bend the tabs back to neutral on the Atlas and reassemble the entire pistol again. Use the pre-travel test by Brazos that I referenced above, then see EXACTLY how much additional travel (if any) you'll need. This will tell you if modding the disco will be enough. Good luck with your adventure; and remember there are other flat triggers available for the STI that may produce the results you desire without modifying the OEM parts! YOU may like one of these specifically listed for the STI/Staccato grip: https://reddirt-usa.com/st-trigger/staccato-grip/ Another option that may interest you: https://fusionfirearms.com/ultra-match-grade-2011-triggers-all-colors-designs

IMO, there are definitely some excellent Gunsmiths that are "self taught" and/or never received any formal/apprentice training; especially in the 1911/2011 gun world! IIRC, you have a quality 2011 DVC that should be an excellent platform. Before attempting any modifications to the fire control group, I would do a self assessment to determine if you have the mechanical ability to make changes; and a complete understanding of what to look for if something doesn't work as expected. Most important is to also understand and be able to execute ALL 1911/2011 safety tests that are applicable to your platform! As I'm sure your aware, YouTube has a vast assortment of qualified AND self-taught individuals showing detailed videos of what's involved in changing/upgrading parts to the platform. Watch several; and then assess your ability/understanding to take on this highly complicated platform. If your not 110% sure that you can complete the task correctly and safely, then as others have said allow a Qualified Gunsmith to get you the results you desire.

All: I appreciate the feed back! As far as a crimped pocket, yes the swager on the Apex10 will easily take care of that. What's become the issue is when my Ballistic Tools swage gauge (0.1725") fails to fully insert into the pocket! And even if I've swaged and/or deburred the mouth, and my gauge that's 0.0005" smaller than pocket minimum spec won't go but ~half way in, It's not something I can "feel" with the 10 station progressive press until there's a mess under/around the shellplate or primer disc assembly! A very trusted source shared this: At this point, and I'm not planning on doing this long term, I think just checking each piece of brass with the BT swage gauge would be the easiest way out. If it doesn't accept the gauge easily/completely, then toss it in a reject bin and sell it back to the processor! BTW: I purchased 12k Federal Match SP primers about 7 years ago when they were at "normal" pricing.........

Recently got into a box of pre-processed Win once fired brass that has several with tight primer pockets. Started having an unusual high number of crushed primers (Federal match); and after going through the press and taking care of some minor issues, it was suggested that I check for crimped and/or tight pockets. Grabbed 1k and sat down with the primer pocket go/no-go gauge, and found about 10% that had tight and/or left-over crimped pockets! Each and every one are headstamped WIN 9mm LUGER. Of course I can deal with the crimps at swaging; but what are the options for tight pockets? Would they need a primer pocket uniformer? Or just toss them in the recycle bucket and move on. It's a PIA to have to pocket gauge the remaining 2k since there are no "visible" indicators that reveal abnormal pockets! And I've never used a pocket uniformer before! And better options out there for dealing with this? Thanks! And a pic of what I consider a "left-over" crimp..........

Also, since the triggers pre-travel pull is linear to the sear and disconnector, one could additionally gain needed travel by perfecting the disconnector. EGW's disconnector paddles, for example, usually average ~.039". The spec is .035" -.005". So equalizing both to .030" would be acceptable. IIRC, the (bottom) bow measurement of my Atlas/Geppert was ~1.725"......

Have an 2011 style pistol that I wanted to put the Atlas/Geppert trigger in as I have a brand new one sitting in the spare parts bin. To get the pre-travel I wanted was going to require shorting the (front) sear legs. This will be an off-season project if I can't get a Red Dirt that will work. Pic for example of sear leg machining. Pic is not mine! BTW: a good video on pre-travel adjustment using the Red Dirt triggers: