Avedis

Make sure you are checking compatibility with the basepad/magwell combo you choose. A year or two ago, the Springer magwells with TTI basepads worked great. Had that combo for years. Now they do not. It seems TTI has slightly changed the design on the basepads. If you buy this combo in 2019 w/ new components, know you will have to shave off metal on one of the components. Its a shame because I feel those are the best respective magwell/basepad out for the M&P. Springer basepad w/ Springer magwell work.

Compared to the "S" stamped bars, the "H" stamped trigger bars have a more aggressive loop angle and subtle length changes so that it engages sear sooner. Slightly modified geometry so that it contacts new slide stop for more tactile reset.

I can't speak for the Titan specifically but my Nemesis eats everything I have given to it. I'd assume they would be the same given the design/parts are near identical. Winchester white box, Speer, Blazer Brass, Federal American Eagle, Fenix Ammo (Training), Fenix Ammo (Shell Shock NAS3 Match), Fenix Ammo (Shell Shock NAS3 2011 Specific Match), Federal Syntech Match.

Owners manual pg 43 https://snwcdnprod.azureedge.net/sites/default/files/owners-manuals/M%26P_Pistol_080118_441300000.pdf "Step 1: Remove the plastic slide cap from the M&P® Pistol slide by unscrewing the two screws using a 5/64˝ hex wrench as shown here (FIGURES 1c & 2c)"

First, obviously, check to make sure the gun is zeroed properly. One of the things I often see when working with my patrol guys is, "my Glock shoots left" Often time it's easily fixed with: 1. articulating trigger finger at different joint 2. more grip pressure (both hands) I'm sure some great shooters here will chime in with their thoughts. Honestly though, with a group like that at 20 yards, you shouldn't be too concerned. Voigt does a great job at explaining it in this video:

Nope, the weights simply replace the batteries that are in there. If you want to switch it back to a normal light, just put the batteries back in.

Streamlight TLR-1 with Tungsten Weights weighs 9.85oz. You can also use any light that takes a CR123 battery, as two of these weights equals the size of one CR123 battery. Weights can be purchased from forum member Solscud007 See photos in link https://imgur.com/a/5Ce73MK

Is your Apex kit a FSS? If so, it is not uncommon for the timing to be slightly off to cause intermittent light primer strikes. One easy way to test to see if the timing is off is to simply take the striker block out of the gun temporarily. If the light strikes go away, you know it's a timing issue (see below for fix). -------------- The gap on your trigger bar loop (candy cane) is opened too far. This allows the striker to be released prior to the striker block clearing. This robs the striker of a significant amount of energy, resulting in light primer strikers. To fix it, reduce the size of the gap on the trigger bar loop. This will fix your timing issue and allow the striker block to fully clear before the striker is released. If you have another M&P, that you know works fine, go dry fire it. It will make a crisp clicking/snapping when dry fired. A gun with incorrect timing will make more of a dull thud noise when dry fired (depending on how off the timing is). Essentially, you are doing the OPPOSITE of this:

lol, no

some good insight in this video

Im not 100% sure if you are talking about the actual MSH being too long, or that it fits and the internals are locked-up inside If its the latter, you need to change all the internals: Standard length mainspring (weight of your choice) Mainspring housing pin retainer (that goes at the bottom of the mainspring) Mainspring cap (that goes in the top of the mainspring) You can get them from Dawson of EGW etc: http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/high-quality-11-pc-pin-set-blue/ https://dawsonprecision.com/pin-sets-1911-2011-by-dawson-precision/

Charlie, what is your absolute peak grip strength in each hand (proper firing grip) using the dyno? I'm interested to know what percentage of your peak grip strength you are using to get to the recommended 100lbs.

trigger and sights https://www.twobrostactical.com/collections/m-p/m-p-shield

I believe 4mm, see video below at 0:50 sec, (gen 2 mags) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdM0gtYmUTs

Applied the Caswell stainless blackener gel, worked great. It turned out slightly darker than the PVD Coating that was on the grip, but i'm okay with it. Pictures below, let me know if you have any questions. Stainless (grip was scrubbed and degreased) Applying gel Gel washed off, it leaves an almost charcoal like powder residue on top which needs to be scrubbed off and degreased prior to second/third application of gel Two applications of gel later, grip was rewashed/degreased, then re-oiled.

Thanks for the recommendations. I picked up this stainless blackener from Caswell per their customer service rep's recommendation. https://www.caswellplating.com/stainless-steel-blackener-gel-kit.html I will let you know how it goes.

Hey guys, tonight I installed the new Limcat V2 magwell which requires grinding off the three little "tabs" on the PT EVO grip, just above where the magwell sits. Now, there is a bit of stainless showing above the magwell. Even though it's a race gun, my OCD wont allow it, so i'm looking for a quick way to touchup the metal to blacken it. It doesn't have to be a perfect match to the black PVD coating thats on there, I just want to get rid of the stainless color. The standard cold blues I use from Amazon/Brownells aren't bluing the 17-4 stainless of the PT EVO grip. I know that cold blue generally doesn't work on high quality stainless, but are there any tips or products specifically for stainless that I can use to touch this up? Seems wasteful to refinish the whole grip.

All 10 of my Atlas tuned STI Gen2 mags have been 100%

Proprietary part. Call Zev, they will take care of you. Make sure you pick up a replacement return spring and roll pin if necessary.

I recently held JJ's new Limcat and it was definitely less aggressive than my PT EVO, it felt a bit lighter as well. Overall it felt good in the hand. The checkering added friction without being overly aggressive. If you want maximum control though, the added weight and friction from the PT EVO will likely shoot flatter

I've got an RO Elite that I carry on duty every day. With a little bit of work they are a solid all-arounder. What are you getting for 4X the price? Obviously, the WC is going to have an all around better fit and finish and will have more features than the RO Elite. WC has a bull barrel, checkered front strap, magwell, serrated slide (top and rear) etc. Ultimately its up to you to decide if those features, and the WC name, are worth the price. Will you regret it? Highly doubt it. For me, it was worth it to buy the RO Elite and do a bit of modding. I think if you go into it with the mindset of, "this is a solid 1911 that I can tune/polish/mod into something pretty damn good for ~$1200 total" you will be happy. If you purchase it with the mindset of it having the same performance/fit/finish of a high end custom 1911/2011, you may regret it. Let me know if you have any questions on the RO.

Worth it https://www.twobrostactical.com/collections/m-p/products/m-p-shield-duty-carry-action-enhancement-trigger-kit

They will work as ambi, just like the factory ones. You can see the difference in profile here: https://www.twobrostactical.com/collections/m-p/products/extended-magazine-release-1