Carmoney

Bingo.

Hold on now. Your post seems to indicate that Mayo Clinic administers or recommends the use of these supplements, and I don't really think that's the case. If you read the entire article from Mayo, the real message of that piece is "lack of sufficient evidence" and "more studies are needed before a firm conclusion can be made." By golly by gosh.

What kind of doctor? Somebody with an actual M.D. degree from an accredited medical school in the United States?

Sadly, Ruger seems to have zero interest in our world of competition shooting.

Bosshoss, you're absolutely correct that whether the gun retains single action capability has no impact whatsoever on the DA trigger pull. Grant Cunningham is simply saying he's not willing to make your DA pull real light if you also want to keep the SA cocking notch. Apparently, he's all worried about the SA pull going below 2 pounds--he calls that "unconscionably light." That might be a valid issue with a carry/defense gun, but I don't think Cunningham knows his way around our world of competition shooting, where it's not uncommon for shooters to have SA trigger pulls on their 1911/2011s that are a pound or less!

I'm all for good deals, but several BE Forum Dealers also list that pistol for sale. Not real sure we should be giving free ad space to another online dealer who will undercut the price but has shown no commitment to supporting our community of competitive shooters.

You're not going to get under 5 pounds DA without seriously compromising trigger rebound.

"2 to the body, 1 to the head, just to be sure he's really...."

Here's another vote for Hearthco moonclips cut for Starline brass. I only use .38 Short Colts these days. I don't even mess with .38 Special brass anymore.

With his engineering background, Randy Lee can explain it far better than me, but my layperson's understanding is that fast slaps are better than slow crushes when it comes to igniting centerfire primers. I do know that Randy tested it extensively when developing his aftermarket hammers. And I found the same thing with my own cut-down hammers. All other things being equal, a significantly lighter hammer will fall faster and ignite primers better. It's not a huge difference, but it's measurable and repeatable. All other things equal, I can take the action on a revolver noticeably lighter with a Carmonized or Randy hammer, but still keep it reliable, than I can with a stock hammer. Note we're not just talking about "bobbing" hammer spurs, we're talking about radically cutting them down to reduce the curb weight by about 50%. Short throw actions do not seem to be in vogue these days. The few that I've seen have been fairly heavy. Which of course makes perfect sense--if you reduce the arc of hammer travel, it's going to need more spring tension to get it moving fast enough to pop the primer. And if you're still required to pull the trigger all the way through its full range of travel, what benefit really comes from the hammer arc being shorter--for an action shooting gun, anyway?

Very true. Including those who are well beyond the geographical confines of Area 5! On the bright side, Kyle will do a great job also.

I agree with Warren on filing the ratchet. If you put a decent polish on the bottom of the rebound slide, the milling marks probably aren't really hurting anything. If it's sliding nicely, you probably don't need to worry about it. I usually use 400-grit waterproof sandpaper wrapped around my fingers to smooth the inside of the frame and the sideplate. It's tedious and one of my least favorite parts of doing action work. You only need to go until it's reasonably smooth, you'll never get rid of all those milling marks. Someday take a look at the inside of a S&W revolver made around 1999-2001, just after they put the new machinery in place at the factory. You can spot these by looking for guns with the MIM hammer and trigger redesign, but no internal lock system. They are the smoothest internally ever to come out of that factory. Unfortunately, S&W has let the QC slip again lately....

Hi Kevin, Here's a picture of the hammer from the 25-2 my son Sam shoots in USPSA matches. As you can see, I messed around taking off weight in a couple other places (probably not worth the effort, by the way). When you cut away the back half of the hammer like this, you remove about 1/2 the original mass--which seems to be about right. Can you tell I'm not much of a scientist or engineer? Start cutting! If you mess up really bad, no big thing--there are plenty of extra hammers laying around. Just make sure you don't get too close to the channel at the top where the hammer nose pivots. You want to maintain most of the metal behind that area. I got a little too close for comfort on the hammer in the picture.

Dude, have you been to Frostproof??

New-style ratchet will not fit. Probably can recut the lugs on those 4 chambers. Or fit a replacement old-style ratchet if you can find one. Dealing with those late-'80s revolvers can be awful.

Actually, there are efficient ways to speed-reload a revolver that don't involve pointing the barrel upward. I keep the gun in my right hand and catch the extractor rod with the palm of my left hand right after opening the cylinder. This method probably wouldn't work well with loose rounds, but with moonclips it's actually faster.

As a frame of reference, dealer price on a Spartan is $550. I think you need to ask yourself whether the Dawson package is worth $600 more.

Awhile back, I did some testing with rimfire revolvers and concluded that an extended length pin may be helpful with ignition, on at least some Model 617 specimens. The factory pin on a 617 is different that the pin used on the centerfire guns. The groove on the side of the 617 pin is designed to stop forward movement of the pin before the tip contacts the edge of the chamber mouths. Sometimes this limited range of movement seems to inhibit the full ignition potential on rimfire ammo. I have found that I can further reduce the DA pull on most guns by implementing an extended (C&S) firing pin. The downside is that the gun cannot be dry-fired without snap caps or empty casings, or it will damage the chamber edges. Even snapping the gun a few times around will cause significant peening. Given the trouble I have had getting 617s to work reliably with significantly reduced mainspring tension, I think it may be worth the trade-off.

I have always found the Blazers to be the same as Mini-Mags in terms of ignition reliability. Either something has changed, or you got a bad batch of Blazer, or something else is going on.

I'm a believer in the Wilson ETM mags. They were pretty tight with 10 rounds loaded, and at first I used them only for steel matches. Now they have relaxed enough to use for IPSC matches. I have used my ten mags in three different 9mm single stacks, and they function great.

Back when factory ammo was much cheaper, I shot Wolf .45 through my Springfield Loaded two or three years in a row at the Single Stack Classic--not to mention a bunch of local matches. It functioned perfectly, was accurate enough, and caused no visible damage or accelerated wear on the gun. I think the stuff is perfectly fine for autopistols. I did notice stickier extraction the few times I shot Wolf .45 through one of my revolvers, but that's a whole different situation.

No.

As several others have indicated, the springs should be balanced to one another. There is no spring kit that reliably accomplishes that. Too many small variables from gun to gun.

A couple years ago I found a full-custom hard-chrome 1911 Caspian in 10mm done by Glades Gun Works, and picked it up dirt cheap. I popped in a Kart EZ-Fit .40 barrel, changed to a 12.5# recoil spring, and have been using it (off and on) in Single Stack Division ever since. The only thing that worried me was the unramped barrel--seems like pretty much all the .40 1911s you see have ramped barrels--but it functions perfectly. Sam shot it at the Western States Single Stack Championship back in January and it ran great. I have a really nice custom Colt Delta Elite 10mm that I have considered converting to .40, but since I have several other nice 1911s in .40 caliber I have decided to leave it 10mm, at least for now.

Since you have a 27-7, that means at least four of the 100 are currently in the State of Iowa.