chuckbradley

Ditto on all of it. She is great people and the best at what she does.

Only when I get old and loose my sight. Hmm wait, I think I need to shoot open.

That was a good post by xcount, thanks Kyle. I use a non-serrated post. I did sight black the front and rear. I doubt its much of an issue but this time all the planets lined up just right. Bright sun over your shoulder and a stage filled with tight shots and lots of semi long range small steel. I may have to send my slide off and gt Dan to undercut the sight and see how that works. Or I could contact my customer in Alaska who had a lady sighting in her rifle in the next bay while they shot IPSC. She may have some insight on this matter. I think she was going to hunt Moose at a long distance. I believe the sun can be pretty bright up there.

Sight black in the bag? I've used it before in a USPSA match because of the bad lighting conditions. That or just remember that if you're missing because of the glare on the sight, you'll always shoot towards the light, so aim the other way. I dont use a fiber optic and put on fresh sight black. So you need to aim away from the light? Is say 1" per 10 yards a good number?

I did a search and found one post that explained the phenomenon but didnt see anything that said what you could,if anything, do about it. At the Teneessee State match this last weekend we had to start on a stage with hardcover targets, azone only. US Poppers and 8" plates out a ways, 18-20 yards. The sun was at about 4o'clock to our backs. I had 2 misses and about 10 extra shots on steel. It was so bad I was taking a hard sight picture and slowly squeezing and still missing. I have had this happen before but it has been just 1-2 targets and I never really considered it an issue. this time with 10 pieces of small steel and hard shots it was a huge issue in the match. I was the first shooter. I came off the stage talking about how i had a good sight picture. Everybody just looked at me like, SURE! Well when the squad got done they were all talking about it. The next day the first squad said the same thing. Basically what we saw was not the true sight picture. To make it worse some of the targets were in bright sun and some still in the shadows. The post I found explains it but is there a technique that will help overcome it? Or do you just pull the trigger till they fall like I did.

I have mixed feelings on this. I was Ro'ing a new shooter a couple weeks ago. It was a 3 string stage. He bent over to pick up a mag and thinking he was pointing to the ground he pointed the gun right at my leg. I pulled him a side, no need to embarrass him in front of everybody, and sternly made it clear that the single most important issue he needed to be focused on is where the muzzle is pointing, that everything else was secondary to that. I told him next time it would be a DQ. Maybe he will be back. I doubt he would be if I DQ'd him. Now this goes back to the first time I shot a match at Ashland Gun Club. I dropped my mag and bent over to pick it up, turning around looking for it. Yes I did a complete circle. The gun was pointed at the ground the whole time. The RO was none other than Gary Stevens. He looked at me like "what the hell are you doing?". Gave me pretty much the same talk and I came back and have always been aware of muzzle direction since.

Had to stop in and see what Brian had to say since at an Area 4 back in 97? we discussed this very thing. Brian is consistent. He said the exact same thing then. I adopted that strategy and liked it. One thing I also found was it helped me being a big guy getting stuck leaning into a position sometimes took for ever getting out. So if i could shoot while coming out it saved me time. So most the time when leaning around a corner I will go right to the inside target and work my out, shooting as I am leaving. I also found Brian to be correct on getting a good set up for your first shot. When starting on an easy shot I found it was typical to end up shooting loosely and points suffered. When i take the hard shot first and force myself to get a hard sight picture the points are much better for the stage.

Many years ago at a Kentucky State match there was a stage that you started bound up by a bungy cord. You had to unbind yourself, pick up a stick and hit a dummy on the head breaking the clay pigeon on his head. I proceeded to smoke the stage. Jerry, the RO, said I have some good news and bad news. You had the fastest time of the match. Bad news was you forgot to hit the dummy on the head and get 1 procedural per shot fired. That was 24 procedural's. Zeroed a 120 point stage and lost the match by about 40 points.

No, really its a great powder for 9mm major since it is so dense. I believe we used to run 9.6 grains in super but I would start out much lower and work up. I am not sure if that was with 125's or 115's. So 8 grains is a good start point. For Super there are other powders that do the job, not so many in 9mm because of case space. We use 3n37 now, wished we had some SP2. At one time I had literally tons of it. Sold the last 8 lb bottles available about 7 years ago.

There is no load data. That powder is totally useless. I will be glad to take it off your hands cause I am a nice guy.

Be aware there are now 2 versions of the Speedsec out there. The new one has a spring loaded locking system. I didnt even realize it until a customer asked me if I had the new one. I opened one up and took a look. It was news to me but sure enough this last batch had the new spring loaded lever. Unfortunately with the value of the dollar, oil prices and the new design there was a price increase and why you will see a large variation in prices.

If it's an original HK it's definitely steel, and probably a steal as well If you want a tough battle rifle, or a great collectable, get the HK. If you want a long distance tack driver a well built AR10 will outshoot the HK. I have a JP LRP-07 and had no problem keeping all shots on target with a Leupold 4.5-14x scope at 100 yards. Being the cheap sort that I am, I was using target pasters for targets. You got me Rob.

Be careful since cutting the tritop too shallow will cause slide cracking. STI still does the tritop if you buy a short block or Slide to frame fit.

If your attendance is down then maybe its time to step and look at what you are offering and competing against. The biggest factor I beleive is the experience at your club. How many stages, how many rounds, ARE THEY FUN(or are they designed to FWY), is administration freindly. Second to that is price. Then location. There are a couple matches available and the one that advertises a 50.00 entry fee has more shooters than the ones with a 100+ entry fee. This shows some sensitivity to the price. Location is usually overcome by shooters who think the other 2 factors are worth the trip. All match administrations need to realize that their match needs to run like a business. The shooter is the consumer. If they dont like the product they wont buy it.

My information may be outdated but if its an orginal HK then I think its a steel at that price. Some of the cheap knock offs were going for 500.00 a while back. They may be around 900.00 now. Originals were going over 2k last i looked at them so I cant imagine them dropping that much. I have one so i hope not.

WE just got some of the new Speedsecs in and found that most models now have a positive lock that clicks into place and spring unloacks. I didnt even realize it until a customer pointed it out to me. Pretty slick. Wasnt on the revolver model but was on the STi model. and yes the STi model will not work for a steel frame without being sloppy.

In the past the STI and SV's needed some tune up work frequently. I can tell you that all the stuff that was being done as tune up work, STI is pretty much doing at the factory now. Most problems with these guns come from user error. Allot is mags , components just thrown in mags, ammo that isnt right or just plain operator error. We had a guy buy a 9mm Trubor last week. He called us to say he was very unhappy, said his gun jammed every round. So we started asking questions. He was shooting factory ammo. These guns are set up to run major power factor ammo and do need to be broken in. As far as the price. Yes there is a premium on the frame. The mold to do the grip was very expensive to make. The design is the best so far. There is no comparison to what you get in an STI and what others offer. It is the best applicable firearm for the sport. If it wasn't it wouldn't be so popular. There is a reason the STI design is the holly grail, they earned that distinction and its been proven in competition and chosen by the competitors. And yes for that there is a small premium on the frame. Some of that premium is actual increased production costs over the mainstream gun. In my opinion they are worth every penny. When I first started in 93 I shot a glock and a single stack. I said i would never pay 2500 for a race gun, just not worth it. Well 6 months later I did. I then new why they were that high and never questioned it again. Dont get me wrong. I wanted the best value and why I have some of the offerings I do now but the STi configuration just cant be beat. I have no need to even look at other handguns, I already have the best.

Former President Coming To Georgetown Former President George Herbert Walker Bush will be in Georgetown in September to dedicate a facility named in his honor. Mr. Bush serves on an advisory board for Georgetown College and has agreed to come accept the honor in person. The Scott County Airport is nearby in case he wants to take in some skydiving while there… although that’s fairly unlikely. He always seemed very decent on TV and in person. We interviewed him in London, KY during his 1988 bid for the White House and covered him the night before he lost his re-election effort in Louisville in 1992. Think I should throw the MP5 in the car tomorrow? Just joking. Imagine Secret Service stopping me and seeing it. I have to drive right by the airport. This is a really small town and I have to drive by the college. I imagine the town will be at a standstill.

This actually sounds like a good idea. After all, the 9/38 mags do have those indentations on the sides to facilitate function in a wide body grip that was originally designed as a"high cap .45". Never mind, that would be a grip/mag issue and the issue at hand is the frame.... Actually the STI grip was designed for the 38 super cartridge to start with. 40 wasnt even legal to score major then if I remember right , Limited hadnt even been implemented yet. It was all about the best gun since everybody was shooting heads up.

These 2 statements seem to conflict. I was asking Chuck about thumb rests not frames. What makes you think I would make a cheap low ball knock off as opposed to a quality part? I don’t think Chuck would sell cheap knock offs. I must have missed this one. Dont remember it. Was it in a different thread? If it was CR Speed Thumb rests , yes i have problems from time to time. I asked them if I could make it over here. They politely didnt address that question so I took as a no. I wouldnt just copy the design unless they quit making it or with their permission. Like we did with the Nordic Techloader Extension tubes.

Making parts better or making accessories is completely different than just copying somebody else's part.

I guess you missed the part were I said they have cut off supply in the past. They did make them available to us as long as we agreed not to sell the unmodified, unstippled version. So yes they will choose who they sell them to and have agreements all designed to keep the grips away from people putting them on a competitors frame. You could always get one by buying a frame. A few will be able to buy a stippled grip or pianted grip but for the most part to get any real numbers it will not be possible. With those small numbers it just isnt worth it.

Guess not much. Did I figure right?

I just happen to have some samples in front of me of wax targets. Pasters work fine on them dry or wet. How long is yet to be determined. One problem I forsee is as the target is shot water will get into the channels so testing on target life will need to be done first. Also not sure how they would hold up if used in dry , very hot conditions. Will the wax soften and distort the target? As far as cost, I have a price. its twice normal. Also shipping will cost more. I have to get 10k done at a time. My decision to not produce them is this. Most will not pay the extra to have them as a standby in case it rains. If you can get together enough orders to do 10k or even close to it I will have some run. I also looked into corrugated plastic a while back and its the same issue. Not sure how they would perf when run and if a completely new die would need to be made for plastic. If there is allot if interest I am willing to get some done.

Do not send it by mail. UPS- ORMD should be fine . I would say call them but you can talk to 3 different people and get 3 different answers. Ammo is ORMD. Powder & primers alone is HAZMAT and you cannot ship those without a hazmat account with UPS. i would consider the primed brass in the same category as ammo.