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A quart of Mobil 1 lasts a long time. Been using 0w-20 for a while now - a little heavier seems to be more popular.

I've run many 1000's of steel case through some of my ARs (used to get it really, really cheap) and it has never caused any issues with those rifles. It does seem to be a bit dirtier and sometimes a bit under powered, but I saved a lot of $$$ using it for plinking ammo and just had to do a little more cleaning for those savings.

The ONLY reason this keeps getting pushed is because of totally flawed logic. NOT once in American legal history is there a case where handloaded ammo, or even a modified trigger changed the outcome. The ONLY case Ayoob can come up with is the case of a man who murdered his wife and tried to assert it was suicide with "low powered" handloads. COMPLETE MYTH! STOP perpetuating ignorance! And yes, I am a court certified ballistics and shooting reconstruction expert. Actually, you're mischaracterizing the case. The man was tried four times, twice on murder and twice on reckless manslaughter, convicted on the second manslaughter case. Regardless, the issue is more with civil trials than anything else, and the evidence standards for wrongful death trials are much lower than those for murder of any degree. If you don't absolutely have to load defense ammo, then I always advise against it. If you want to simulate defense ammo, go for it. Accept the consequences if you decide to use it as your EDC load. Here's the article for everyone to read. I don't have a link, but this is a cut and paste of the original article: I fail to see how this is pertinent to a lawful self-defense shooting? This was a suicide/murder case. Maybe this could be used if my wife grabbed one of my guns and loaded it with various different loads to off herself and I couldn't determine which load she actually pulled the trigger on. In that case I would have turned over all loading data for that caliber and said it could have been any of these or it could be any of these factory boxes matching the fatal rounds headstamp. PS. I love this elitist comment by Ayoob in the post: "While you may well be one of those very few who can actually handcraft better amino". I know plenty of people that can load better than factory ammo, it's not really that difficult. Or maybe he did mean "amino"?

The ONLY reason this keeps getting pushed is because of totally flawed logic. NOT once in American legal history is there a case where handloaded ammo, or even a modified trigger changed the outcome. The ONLY case Ayoob can come up with is the case of a man who murdered his wife and tried to assert it was suicide with "low powered" handloads. COMPLETE MYTH! STOP perpetuating ignorance! And yes, I am a court certified ballistics and shooting reconstruction expert. I too concur with The-Vigilante . . . carry factory ammo. Just common sense to eliminate that possibility, don't you think? In my 65 years of life, I have found those who boast about being experts are the ones I trust the least. Can you cite one case where a "good self-defense shoot" was was deemed criminal or the shooter was required to pay in a civil case "due to handloaded ammunition"? This is an honest question not a smart ass sarcastic one. I've seen lots of people posting that there are plenty of cites by several experts, but I've yet to see someone actually post a single relevant cite and I haven't been able to find one myself - yet. I carry factory ammo, but not because I'm worried about lawyers or juries.

Maybe , semi-long rounds. Won't gauge my 1.185 loads.

I have a DAA Racemaster and a Ghost - the Ghost is a bit smoother on the draw, but the Racemaster is close after some filing and sanding on the insert block. My RM also has the older style hanger and I had to bend it a bit to get the holster pain free (was digging into my leg pretty good), I think the newer ones are shipping with a different hanger to resolve that. The RM feels more secure IMO and I like the lock function and location a lot better than the Ghost. If I wasn't a tinkerer I probably would have sent the RM back, but in the end it turned out perfect for me and it has been solid the last 6 months.

Hopefully that includes shipping & lube

Thanks for the info.

Are those prod legal up there?

Me either, but I will be getting another one to keep there now

Are you running the SS rod uncaptured or with a screw holding the spring? If the latter maybe just remove the screw and run it w/o that.

You should have no issues making weight w/ the DP sights, grip tape and a std length SS guide rod. Mine is right at 28.0 oz with those sights, grip tape and an extended length tungsten rod.

The Vanek classic is really good for a production legal trigger. Heard good things about the glocktriggers prod version too.

As a check I went through some of my older TULA primed loads and reseated with a SInclair hand-priming tool so they were .004-.005 below flush. Out of 50 I still had 9 that would not fire in the stock set-up M&P .40. They were running just fine for a few thousand rounds in my Glock 34 until a couple of weeks ago and then started getting light strikes pretty often. The 34 had the original stock striker - had probably over 20k rounds on it. I swapped in a LW striker (using a 4.5lb striker spring) I had laying around and it's lighting them off 100% again.

Is the rib on your LM machined flat (the one that slides the indexing rod out)? Sounds like it just needs an adjustment - either to the carrier alignment or by making an adjustment to the flipper on the index rod. Mine was out of adjustment when I unboxed it, but a quick adjustment and it indexes perfectly 100% of the time now. After a thousand or so rounds everything started cycling very smoothly. One day I'll probably get a blue 650, but the LM has exceeded my expectations so far for a $200 press.

Also, keep in mind that lightweight snubbies weren't designed as fun range toys. A good grip will help, but simple physics are going to play a big part here.

I must just be lucky, but I've loaded buckets of LEO .40 range brass (all Glock'd) thru a std Lee .40 carbide sizing die and they all run thru my 2011 just fine. I've come across a few that won't case gauge 100%, they go in the practice bin and run fine too at the range. I actually bought a Bulge Buster based on issues I read about, but I've never even mounted it up.

Stamped "FEDERAL NT" non-toxic

Couple of reasons I know of. Slamming a magazine home with the slide back can cause over insertion and possible damage to the ejector. The high capacity followers are shorter and make contact with the slide lock sooner, this causes the slide to lock back with one round still in the magazine.

Here's a decent comparison of the LNL and 650 (and Loadmaster as well) that compares a few different areas. http://www.comrace.ca/cmfiles/dillonLeeHornadyComparison.pdf

"PV is out of them now in SP anyways" Midway has Tula SPP for $116/5k and SRP for $109/5k

If the sizing die is doing that to a large number of cases I'd guess it may be out of spec. FWIW, I've always had very good results with both of my Lee carbide .40 sizing dies for loading ammo for my 2011 - I am using the Redding pro seater & taper crimp dies tho. A lot of people like to run a u die for .40, but I haven't had any chambering issues with the regular sizing die so I haven't tried it yet.

I bought a Load Master for .40 not too long ago, even after reading all the bad pub. I had done enough reading to know most of the pitfalls and things to look for, so getting it up and running wasn't that bad. I did spend about a day going through it to make sure everything was working smoothly and to just get a better understanding of how it worked and all the bits on it - I was the kid that took the toaster apart to see how it worked ;-) The priming, indexing and case feeder all set up easily and work flawlessly - better than expected (I haven't had a single missed/flipped primer yet???). I'm not a speed demon though, still takes me about 10 minutes to load 88 rounds (that's what the feeder tubes hold w/ .40). I could probably shave 2-4 minutes off that if I really needed to, but I like looking everything over as I go. The one issue I had (and didn't even think about prior to getting a progressive) was inconsistent OAL. It took me a little while to do some research to iron that out. I was at +/- .010 initially and that was just too broad a range IMO. I changed around some dies and did some different adjustments to the dies and I'm now consistently getting +/- .002 which is good enough for my application (since I'm loading molys I'd guess half that variance is in the projectiles). Shell plate contact in stations 1, 2 & 4 (redding seater die in 4) was the key for me.

This ^ I always look into every case before placing a bullet and a double charge would be easy to spot. Out of spec bullets jamming in the chamber is another issue and my EGW chamber checker doesn't pick them up (loaded long). I'm caliper checking all my match ammo now until I come up with a better solution. Using the barrel is an option, but still one at a time.

I had to apply a little heat with a lighter to the trigger pad in the screw areas to get the loctite on those tiny set screws to break free. The black soot will just wipe off. Finding that fine line between a lighter striker spring and a heavier trigger spring combo that will give you the lightest pull and still run reliably can be tricky. I have a box of springs I mix and match until I get it where I want it. I generally prefer to go back to a little heavier on the striker spring first if the reset isn't good enough - will help the reset and make ignition more reliable (going lighter on the trigger spring will help reset, but not primer ignition).