Yoder

I have the exact same issue. I figured I was putting my trigger finger too far into the trigger and this was pushing the gun left. I also shoot a Glock and it only happens at speed. I'll have to give this a try. I was also thinking of trying to adjust my draw to where I roll my hand slightly toward my body before grabbing the gun. I thought this little bit of rotation might put the pad of my finger on the trigger instead of hitting closer to the first joint. I have a match this weekend so I'm not going to mess with it until after.

With the new additional weight allowed is a weighted grip plug legal? I was looking at that thug plug.

I used to have this problem with my LNL loading 9mm. Two things fixed it. The first thing was a Dillon resizing die. The die is chamfered more than most dies and is a little more forgiving. The second thing was to add a shim under the base plate of the press. With these shims you can adjust the distance between the shell plate and the base plate of the press. By making the shell plate to base closer it keeps the case from tipping as much. The link below does a great job of explaining it. http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?144901-How-to-tune-the-Hornady-Lock-N-Load-AP-progressive-press

I agree. I was just curious. I think the previous post about round counting makes sense.

My last match I performed a reload and my mag was empty but i had a round in the chamber. I didn't retain the magazine and received a procedural which I know is the rule. It made me wonder why is this is illegal? You aren't leaving rounds on the ground and it seems more tactically sound to have a round in the chamber then to go to slide lock. Is this just because or is there a reason?

I've never shot them before, should be delivered by next week. I have some coated lead from Missouri Bullet Company I shoot out of my .44 mag. I think these would be a similar. I've never had any leading problems with them any they are accurate.

I just ordered some 125 gr 9mm From Blue bullets. If you order over 10k you get a 10% discount. It comes out to right at $60/1000 with free shipping. I never used them before. I hope they are as good as everyone says. For 10% off the code is 10to50.

If you run the case feeder you can use the powder cop die. If you run the bullet feeder it takes up one stage on the press where you would put the powder cop. I bought a RCBS bullet feeder die with the tubes. It works really well and it was cheap. It also allows for a cheap caliber change by swapping inserts inside the die. The bullet feeder tubes work well but are very slow to load. Out of curiosity I ran a test loading bullets by hand versus loading the tubes with bullets. I believe it took me 3 minutes longer to load the tubes with bullets then load 100 rounds, compared to just setting the bullet head hand. My next upgrade will be a bullet feeder. I like placing the cases by hand since it allows for a quality check of the cases. Otherwise I would have to do this prior to loading a case feeder.

I've had a lot of issues with cases tipping with my 9mm shell plate. Two things helped with this problem. The first thing was keeping the shell plate tight. Put a lock washer between the flat washer and the bolt and it won't loosen up as much. Second thing I put a shim under the floor plate of the press. This tightens up the space between the floor plate and the shell plate. I don't remember the thickness. Here is the shim kit I bought. I didn't come up with these ideas, but they worked well for my press. https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Arbor-Assortment-1008-1010-Chemistry/dp/B002C2GPJ4

Now they just need to straighten out the rules for the SO's so people will actually not be afraid of being sued. I already seen one of my local clubs drop IDPA because of this. It seems like they keep trying to dumb this down and make everything ultra safe so "anyone" can compete. If you are 70 yrs old, have bad knees and weigh 400 lbs you might not be competitve. You could still shoot and have fun (and maybe a heart attack). I think the sport would benefit from removing rules, not adding more.

This fixed my press. Before I found this I was ready to get rid of it. With the shims I have almost no case tip at all. 9mm was the worst. I also went to a Dillon resizing die which is beveled a little more than some other dies and is more forgiving. I finally don't regret buying the LNL.

I got an ION for my birthday. I haven't taken a lot of videos yet but it is simple to use and looks less cumbersome than the GoPro. I mounted it on top of my rifle scope with the bike handlebar mount and it worked great. I need to take it to a couple shoots and see how it does.

Just an update: Hornady really hooked me up fast with replacement parts and even gave me some extra parts I didn't ask for so I appreciate that. I replied back to them that they should put some kind of sheild around the plastic powder hopper to keep something like this from happening again. I even sent pictures. This was their reply: "Mr. Yoder this is why we built the shroud around the primer tube to prevent the primers from getting out of the primer system. Thanks " Holy crap. I think the fact the that the exploded primer tube ejected from the shroud hit the plastic hopper and it burst into flames shows that the primers ARE getting out of the priming system. I installed a piece of aluminum coil stock around mine now so it should be good. I'm also way more careful about my priming setup and small primer .45 brass.

I have mine with the Hornady powder through expander die on stage 2, Powder cop on 3, bullet seat on 4 and Lee FCD on 5. Look at my post about my powder hopper catching on fire. With the powder drop on stage 2 it puts the powder hopper right next to the primer tube shield. If you have all the primers blow up in a chain reaction the blast is aimed right at the powder hopper. I would highly recommend putting some sheet metal between the primer tube shield and the powder drop if you are using it on stage 2.