chp5

+2 Plugs drive me nuts. I only use one in my right ear.

Joe - I'll be shooting Area 6 this weekend @ South River. Stop by if you can.

Not everyone likes the Glock trigger set up the same way. There are a couple of camps for shooting the Glock trigger – slappers vs. resetters. Slappers let the trigger out all the way (or almost all the way). Slappers generally like the lightest, shortest trigger they can get. Reset is irrelevant (as long as it’s reasonable), because they let the trigger out and “slap” it. Three pound connectors are best for this set up. Resetters don’t slap, but only let the trigger out just past reset and then squeeze. I’m a “resetter” and, for me, the weight of pull is secondary to a very short reset. The 5 pound connector has a shorter reset than the 3 pounder as a result of the angle of the connector (that same angle gives the 3 # connector a lighter pull than the 5#). So, as a general rule, you have a trade off – 3# connector with a lighter pull but longer reset or a 5# connector with a heavier, stacking pull but with a shorter reset. Now, maybe Charlie V or Joe D can take a 3# connector and make it reset like a 5#, but I’ve yet to see that set up (which is not to say it hasn’t been done). I have a Charlie trigger. It’s light and has the regular reset length of a 3# connector. I will also have a Joe D trigger sometime in the not-too-distant future.

I've felt Joe's triggers an they're great. He can vary the trigger feel based on your preferences. Joe - I want the shortest reset possible. I currently have a very short reset with a Ghost Rocket 5 lbs connector (with the overtravel stop). I would like you to match it up with a trigger bar though. Thanks! Cy

Good article. Where did you get the book?

Get the gun up Erik!! Great pic

April 2005 - by a landslide! BTW - that's my wife. Oh wait . . . that's only in my mind . . . oh yeah . . . nevermind

I have a Stag lower - right handed. It is a quality lower. Word has it that Stag is a contractor for a major AR manufacturer - but no one will say who. Do a search on AR15.com - there's lots of info.

G22 vs G35 is simply personal preference - there's no "correct" answer. Try to shoot both. Better yet, buy a G35 and pick up a G22 top end. Then you decide. I see far more G35's than G22's in the game. I shoot a G22 in Limited.

SJG - I have the CMC flat trigger. I've had no problems and I love it, but I only have about 700 rounds through it. I agree that the hammer spring seems to be a little bit stiffer than most match trigger units, but I'm not sure why that would cause your problems. Let us know when you get it figured out.

That's where I've been buying my Zeros. I used Rainier 180s for a long time with no problems.

I have a Liberty fire safe. I forget the size and price but it's a nice safe.

The article seems to state or imply that having the tint directly on the eye increases the performance as compared to glasses. Whether that's true or not remains to be seen . . . . It would also filter sunlight that came over the top of your glases (assuming you don't wear a hat for that purpose).

I found this article on the net about baseball players wearing vision enhancing contacts. Looks interesting. If you have to wear them anyway (like I do), then why not . . . MaxSight

Yeah, but now he has one named after him! I've been testing comps for a few months now. What comp is "best" is a subjective matter IMO - but, with that disclaimer, here're my subjective results. YMMV! Tested: * JP BC, * Smith Enterprises, * MSTN QC, * BM Mini Y, * BM full Y copy (forget the maker – same comp Erik L uses) * F2, and * Armilite three port comp. Rifle: * 17" cut down BM upper, full length gas system, Govt profile, and * 16" BM upper, carbine gas system, HBAR. * Optic for both uppers was an Aimpoint ML2. Ammo: * XM193, * Wolf 55 grain, and * Win Q3131a. Observations: * I saw little difference in the MSTN QC, F2 and JP BC comps. All had a few inches of dot rise on an A zone at 25 yards. The Armilite comp was actually pretty good, but seemed to force the rifle into the shoulder more than the others. The JP BC gave me the best dot tracking. * The Smith Enterprises was also a pretty effective comp, with less blast (together with the QC) than the others. It also has less flash signature when shooting at dusk. * The Mini Y and full Y copy were the most effective, to the point of over-compensation. The dot seemed to dip on the A zone at 25 yards. However, once I shot about 100-150 rounds with the mini Y, I seemed to get better timing with it and the dot was very stable. * I saw no performance difference between the mini Y and the full Y. The min Y is at least ½ inch shorter, so I’d chose it over the full Y. * The mini and full Y were BY FAR the most obnoxious of the comps, hitting the shooter with blast and loud as hell. I started using plugs with muffs when shooting those comps. The blast is worse than my shorty 9 major open gun – but you get used to it. * My gunsmith actually gave me the mini Y. He regularly removes them from post-ban BM rifles which he converts to no-ban rifles. He has to drill the pins out, so there’s a hole on either side of the threads, but it doesn’t hurt performance – and it’s a free comp! * I saw no meaningful difference in dot movement/tracking between my 17" cut down BM upper, full length gas system, Govt profile as compared to my 16" BM upper, carbine gas system, HBAR. The weight difference in the barrel could be a factor. I would also like to test fire Benny’s comp and the Miculek, but I’m finished spending $ on comps right now. Like I said, YMMV. I’m sure many people have differing opinions and this is not the authoritative work on AR comps. These are simply my subjective observations. Cy

Erik, Are you absolutely sure that the primer seating assembly is screwed all the way up into the press? It should be flush with the top of the platform when you're looking at it from the top with the primer tube and disk removed. Also - double check to make sure you have the correct shell plate. It's possible to change calibers and forget to change the shell plate. BTW - the primer system is the weak link in the 650 design IMO. The 550 primer system is more simple and reliable. I've also had powder get into the primer seating assembly (when using very fine SP2 powder) and gunk up the stem so it wouldn't completely retract into the assembly. That will completly lock up your primer disk

looks interesting

Eric - what's the new brass bin kit?

+1!!

I know what I'm getting for Christmas!! I don't mind the manual index - you have to reach for a bullet anyway (unless you have a bullet feeder). IMO, the 550 priming system are more trouble-free than the 650.

I've heard that some people actually put the lock ring underneath the tool head. That seems wierd.

Thanks Steven. The Lee dies aren't too shot for the 550 toolhead?

A great, versatile pistol. It's one of those pistols that everyone should own. I prefer it to the 34.

I can get a set of Lee's carbide dies on the cheap (I'm not talking about the FCD, I'm talking about the standard carbide set). Are these dies any good? I'd use them on a 650. Thanks.

Thanks Benny.