plinker625

The Sidewider is a rotary design that allows the use of liquid cleaning methods, ie ceramics. Additional drums could be dedicated towards moly coating procedures. They are quieter....then vibratory cleaners.

Get the new HST's and get them from Streichers www.streichers.com

What fascinates me, is that I have been around guns for a long time. I mean I was sort of tried and true 1911 man for the first decade. Of course the plastic guns ie Glocks and other...came to being. I mean I am dumped the 1911 for the last 8 years. I have gone to a incarnation of the 1911 that is the USP. What a tank! That gun just goes and goes! No problems that were gun related ie setting up malfs with dummy ammo. I sort of went to Glock for a new caliber....the 9mm! I lke to shoot! The Glock is like a mechanical version of the Life Cereal Actor Mikey! the darn thing just keeps going and going! You can debate all kinds of subjects! And, as long as there are people opinions will vary! Embrace your choice and exoll the virture of being able to express your opinion!

I sort all my brass.....except 9mm. The WW and Fed 45ACP I use for my 625's, all else goes for the USP's! The 9mm just gets cleaned and put in the pail for the next reloading session. I have real anal tendancies for the the 308 brass....and the 223 brass each is sorted for purposes.

I have nearly hit 700 on 550B loading 45ACP's in an hour. But, my comfort rate is 500 in an hour in either 45ACP or 9mm

No sure if they stock what kind of targets you need? But they are fast shippers! There is LE Targets in the twin cities www.letargets.com, they moved to Blaine last summer or fall. They were easy to find of University and 280. Now, up close to Bill North location.

Thank you for the help!

I size my Lapua 308 in two passes first with the .339 bushing and then with .336 bushing. I size WW 308 with .336 bushing then .331 bushing. I use the .243 bushing in the 223 using WW brass or BHA headstamped brass.

The best trimmer is a Giraud! It has no peers!

You got some leg work to do. I would suggest you be careful in your load work up and your data sources. Hodgdon data uses WW brass to work up loads in, and Sierra uses Federal. I would suggest WW brass, Varget, BR2 primers, and work you load based on Hdodgon data. I bet you will a decent chance of success!

I forgot http://www.tjconevera.com/index.html as I have gotten bullets from him, and he has brass too. Google Ed' Reloaders and you might find another source. There is a lot of brass on the EE on AR15.com

In my experience with shootinng HP it was an acquired skill. I was advised that calling shots was good practice as long as the gun and the ammo was not suspect. That means the shooter has a bit of skill to begin with. This guy helping me use to say it was like being a launch control officer in Minuteman III LCF, you can line things up but once you let her fly it is gone! I got caught up admiring my art work at times when shooting rapid fire strings, the first two shots would be on call but had group shift of the last 8 shots.....and lost focus on the front sight and my position. Slow fire prone was easier.

Makes a person think, and I have my thumb forward, but I index on the engraving on the frame about mid cylinder on the 625. Adds new meaning to it slices and dices!

Personally Varget works well it worked in the factory bbl on my 700 and it sings with a Mike Rock bbl. I use Lapua and WW brass. Hodgdon load data is based on WW brass. But, the Sierra manual uses Federal brass. I have 16 reloads on one lot of lapua brass. The brass looks new! Varget and BR2 primers RL15 and 210M primers IMR4895 and WLR I like Nosler CC 155's and 168's. Troll the Nosler Pro Shop for deals on seconds. Their brass is nice stuff and the seconds can be had for decent prices, it is just not wt sorted.

Saw this on another forum http://www.seminolebrassandbullet.com might be a good source for good priced brass

When I was shooting 1911's I was pretty religious about changing out recoil springs every 3K. So, I have continued the practice with the G17. Is this a wise practice? Not shooting major loads just plinkers. Which is better IMSI or Wolff? I have been using a non captured recoil guide, any thoughts on captured vs non-capatured?

My process for 223 #1 Clean brass #2 Size brass on T7 with Imperial Die Wax #3 Polish brass to remove case lube #4 Trim on Giraud Trimmer and other case prep #5 Store brass for future use On 550 Station #1 universal decapper to remove errant debris and prime Station #2 I use TAC cause it flows with no probs, but I have done the polishing alluded to earlier Station #3 I seat with Forster Ultra Seater Station #4 I use Redding Taper Crimp but only for blasting ammo I can run off a good deal of ammo quickly

I blast the shell plate and the primer seater with every 100 rds with compressed air to keep the errant debris out of the shellplate and press area. The 550 sure could use a sealed primer disposal system...

I have shot for a few years TG in the 45ACP in the past I have gone with BE/Unique/231/Universal Clays to TG. I have gave N320 a run and it was clean shooting powder, but spendy. A lot of people sing the praises of WST. In real world use with lead bullets adn hard ball equivalent load is this a decent choice for clean burning for the 45ACP especially in use for 625 loads?

Man, with all the variations, why not offer factory 625 4in with Ti Cylinder with JM front sight set up? That would get me to buy one or another run of the VComp?

My first thought you are trying seat and crimp at the same time? Try seating on the #3 stationand crimping on the #4 station. The 45ACP will have a coke bottle look to it sometimes.

One problem with some vendors is they only buy from places that deliver via their own truck, thus avoiding haz mat charges. I know this is true with one vendor in the Mpls area. I buy primers in 5K sleeves for handguns rounds. Then local vendor has been getting Mag Tech primers in for sale, and they are cheaper by about 3 per K then other primers.

No rifle bullet is going to sit still like loading handgun rounds. Reloading the 223 or any rifle cartridge on progressive should be done in two passes. Process the brass first:Lube the brass (do not use one shot), Size, tuble the lube off the cases, Use the Giraud (great machine), finish any primer pocket work, and the store. Then on loading day slip a universal decapper in place of the sizer die to knock out any errant materials, primer and load. I would work up your load before you do any batches of ammo. Pulling a load of the air is a waste of your time and energy. I would find a good Dillon PM friendly powder, my choice would be TAC!

I have always viewd seating as one step in the reloading process, and the crimp application another step. I just cringe at people new to relaoding trying to manage, but they do.

I have some brass that I know is over 12 years old, and it has been loaded so many times with light plinking loads that you can no longer hardly read the headstamp. I sort brass according to headstamp. Fed and Win for 625 use and all the rest goes for USP use. I usually score extra while at indoor ranges. One time I must have got clost to gallon zip lock bag full of Fed 45ACP brass, a few LEO had expended it.... SCORE! I had one lot of som TZZ89 Match that was some good brass, it lasted for quite long time!