msg73

For those that are using the CGW 11.5lb hammer spring, could you do a pencil test and let me know about how high it goes...both DA and SA. Pencil test => get a new pencil and put it into the barrel, eraser first. Point the pistol straight up and pull the trigger. The pencil should shoot out from the firing pin hit. Measure the approx space between the end of the barrel to the eraser. Could you also state if it's with a Shadow or non-Shadow. Thanks!

double post

In addition to the live fire drills mentioned already, try to practice dry firing with a normal DA first pull but don't let the trigger reset to DA for your second pull. See where your gun resets in SA and try to match that distance. So, normal DA first pull with a shortened 'estimated SA reset length' second pull. This will help train your trigger finger to the different lengths of pulls when shooting DA/SA, which is especially helpful when trying to go fast.

Go with the 'next level' option above. Hold off on the Hammer and Sear if you're on a budget. Polish Internals - Free 11.5 Hammer spring - $7 Extended Firing Pin and spring - $25 Reduced power trigger return spring - $7 Recoil spring of choice (most go with 11#) - $6 Total is $45 + shipping. Best bang for the buck.

All right here... http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191773&page=1 Polish and some lighter springs would be the best bang for the buck.

The issue is JHP vs RN, not PD vs MG. I used to load 124gr MG CMJ RN to 1.170 easily, while MG JHP at 1.170 would hit the rifling. I switched from MG to PD. Much cheaper and still has excellent performance. One minor difference I noticed is that the MG are a little slower versus the PD due to the jacket material.

This is a great load. I switched from 6.8gr of WAC with MG 124 CMJ @ 1.170" to the same load as Eric's. Only difference is that he uses MG and I use Precision Deltas. Chronos at 173 pf avg out of a 5.4" Schuemann barrel with no holes. Shoots flatter with less dot movement. I didn't notice it being any harsher either. That's how I started out ... Nice load, feels great, flat shooting ... . BUT, I don't feel comfortable with that much powder being so high in the case, and the bullet way out to 1.17" (not much grip on the bullet), so I switched to WAC - uses about 1 grain less powder - more room in the case, and I can seat bullets at 1.16" (little more grip on the bullet). What's your concerns about this load? The powder doesn't spill and isn't compressed (or very little, if any). The bullet is also seems seated plenty deep enough. OP - You should at least give some 115's a try. The KKM barrels I've shot were generally a bit faster, so you may want to start around 8.5-8.6 and work your way up.

Same here. I used 1/2" aluminum bar, cut it to length (~5" or so) and drilled/tapped it for the screw to push up on the barrel. The penny is used so you don't scratch up the bottom of the barrel. It's basically the 1911 barrel holder in the following Brownell's kit: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/barrel-tools/barrel-fitting-tools/1911-auto-lug-fitting-kit-prod18787.aspx

I had another thread about this. Still trying to figure out my ejection tuning. I went as heavy as a 13# recoil spring, had good operation and still pretty far ejection. This is with a 38 super with 115s doing 169pf. Went back to a 11# after some suggestions in that thread, but do you have any recommendations on how to go about tuning that? I have a friend with 9mm major doing similar pf with 11# spring and his brass drops out at his feet. You also have to factor in the mainspring and slide weight. A heavier weight mainspring will slow the slide more. A non-lightened slide will have more mass and move slower. I normally use a 17lb mainspring with a lightened slide and an 8-9lb recoil spring and my brass ejects within 5-10'. This is with 115gr PD JHP over 8.8gr HS-6 at 1.170 OAL giving and avg of 173 pf.

I usually use an 8 or 9lb spring for major pf loads. 7lb spring for minor pf or used with an aluma buff for major pf. As a general guide, see how far your brass is ejecting. If it's flying out 10+ feet in the air, then your spring is most likely too light and putting more stress on the frame/slide.

As for the PT frame, My last two frames had issues where the milling on the right side for the ambi safety (slot where the guide arm slides into) was not milled fully. I took care of it with my dremel but shouldn't have to do that on new frames. Everything else was fine though

One tip I got is turn the target 45 too. Then left is left up is up etc. you probably know that already but it was something I hadn't thought of. Yes, that's right.

Who still makes 45's? Don't think anyone makes them anymore. I picked it up on the forums a while ago.

I use a 45* mount as well. All the benefits of a 90* mount but a bit less bulk and more visibility on the left side. Only trade off is it's a bit harder to zero in...but really not much more difficult than a 90*

Excellent tips. Thanks guys.

From your perspective, which comp do you like the best and why? Could you list a relative ranking of them? Do different powders change the relative rankings of the comps? I know Eric (Aircooled6racer) and have talked to him about his comp design and how it compares to some of the other mainstream comps. My next build will most likely have his comp. My last gun had the CFD comp (fullsize. no popple holes) and I wasn't bad but I wasn't overly impressed either. Was using 7.0gr WAC, 124 MG CMJ, 1.170"

Thanks. I agree on the rough cuts first...I was mostly concerned about the end and wasn't sure if it was a semi-circle or some sort of partial oval/curve.

Can you use a single end mill to cut out the slot for a Shuemann hybrid barrel (e.g. is the hybrid/port base semi-circular)? If so, what size end mill would you need?

Big thanks Mike and the staff for putting on a great match! -Mike

Weather.com has it at 60% chance for pm thunderstorms on Saturday. I'll be shooting in the morning, so I hope the weather holds off.

You may want to pickup a barrel alignment block. This will center the lugs in the slide so you can file the right amount off each side of the hood. Sharpie or Dykem blue will help identify high spots when filing the upper barrel lugs. I think the lug cutter is worth it, but get the .195 size. I also shim the upper lug recesses with some tape so the lug cutter cuts more of the lugs and less filing...but measure your slide stop pin diameter and leave a little extra to file out tooling marks.

Seems like a very light load. What's your PF?

If you don't sand the pin down evenly, you may not have full engagement of the lower lugs on lockup Mark the lower lugs with a sharpie/Dykem and see where it's contacting the pin.

Seems like an inexpensive way to tri-top your slide. Did you need all three? Why not just get the 1/2" or 1 1/4" only? Let us know how it comes out.

I agree that fitting the lower lugs to the SS is the more appropriate solution as .191 is very undersized. However, sanding the SS pin down keeps you from ruining the barrel lugs if done incorrectly. Seems like the OP did the latter and had good results. I hope the sanding of the SS pin was limited to where the lower lug engages. If you sand the entire pin down, you add more slop to the SS pin to frame fit.