Ssanders224

No buffs.

So, After some range time this week, I was cleaning my limited gun when I noticed what I THOUGHT was a new scratch on the slide. Upon further inspection, and much to my dissmay, it turned out to be a CRACK! It is fairly substantial, and the gun is unusable now. The gun is a Custom 2011, and was built by a reputable builder. I'm the second owner, and since Ive owned it, it has been babied, never been dropped, and only had factory & barely major PF run through it. I'm pretty bummed, as I guess I'm going to be without a gun for a while?.... and out the money it takes to get it fixed... Sucks huh??

It depends on what gun your shooting them in, because I'm not sure how hard they are. BUT, I have loaded about 4000 of them over the last couple of months, and not ONE has given me a problem. I used them in a STI Trojan 9mm with factory mainspring, and a Bedell 2011 limited gun. They are great as far as I'm concerned, and cheap too. They do seem to be just a tiny bit harder to fully seat than some others, but it doesnt bother me much. ETA: I also load on a SDB.

My girlfriend has been shooting USPSA longer than I have. Met her through a mutual friend that brought her to the range one day. I will admit, its still a little weird getting this text message while I'm at work HA... "Can we pleeeaaase go shooting when you get of work today??" And sometimes she acts like she doesnt want to go... Just so I can shoot with the guys. I'm pretty crazy about her.

+1 for "other". Using Alliant American Select right now.

+1 I email Ben at Alliant often concerning recipes, and he always replies back the same day. Great customer service.

Not at all, I genuinely just want CZ to address the issue. Another friend of mine spoke with one of the Mec Gar designers and they were unaware of the problem. In all seriousness, we have about 45 Shadows at my club. Magazine issues are more noticable due to the density of equipment. The only thing I can think of is that the springs are weak and when you smack it home the enertia of that causes the spring and spring plate to jump up and allows the pad to come off. Yep, thats the problem. You cannot make the pad slide off while holding the mag in your hand. Only after the inertia of the spring and plate cause the plate to jump will the pad slide off. A stronger spring SHOULD cure this, but it happends with 10% springs and loaded mags (should be PLENTY of force on the plate with rounds loaded). And I hear ya on the "fixing" mags thing. Lord knows Ive spent enough money on "improving" my STI mags, but they didnt fly apart when they were new either.

I'm not a CZ shooter, but I shoot at the same club as Lee G. Ive seen this happen to many different shooters at our club, and I myself have caused it to happen while reloading a friends CZ. I think the 10% springs would probably help, but it sucks you have to "fix" a $50 mag. I dont buy the "wrong technique" thing. A magazine should not fly apart upon insertion, regardless of the technique used.

I witnessed this as well. I tried a couple of reloads with his gun, and easily stripped the basepads off of the tube when seating it with my palm. I could make it happen with any of his CZ mags.

I dont think anyone is going to disagree with you on that... Hence this thread, and this one (http://www.brianenos...5) were started, in attempts to try and diagnose the problem.

Lube on the ramp and recoil spring isnt neccissary, but everything else sounds good. I'm a 1911/2011 lube whore, and like running a wet gun. Other than lube points that you have mentioned, If I was removing ALL oil residue with solvents or ultrasonic, I'd find a way to wipe all steel surfaces with a very light coat of oil.

No, disconnector moves freely. All parts are in perfect working order. spring, sear, and disconnector are all mirror polished at their interaction points. This is a custom built gun. This is frustrating, becuase proven by this thread and others, this type of hammer follow happens to many different people... yet know one knows why.

Trigger bounce is unlikely with a light weight trigger. With a solid trigger, low hammer hooks and light sear spring, when the slide closes the inertia of the trigger trips the sear. Does your slide overcock the hammer? Pull the slide all the back so that the disconnector pops up, pull and hold the trigger while letting the slide close. I'll check this after work. I'm sure my slide pushes down on the hammer slightly. It does on my 1911s. But I'm not sure how this could cause the problem? Can you explain? If I pull the trigger (drop the hammer) and hold the trigger back, the dissconector should not pop up when the slide is pulled all the way back? It is trapped under the legs of the sear until I release the trigger...

Thanks for the replies guys! The follow happened each time in the middle of a stage, or string of fire. I think during very fast splits each time. Not related to engaging/disengaging the thumb safety. It is an STI short curved trigger. The center and left leg have as much or more tension on them as any of my pistols. Explain trigger bounce if you can, because to be clear, the hammer is NOT stopping at half cock, and is NOT setting off the next round. The malfunction leaves me with a dead trigger, and completely de-cocked hammer.

Yep. Should I look for anything in particular? The look nice and uniform.

It seems that I'm not the only one with this problem! Just found this thread. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=118214&pid=1787921&st=25entry1787921

This is happening on my new to me Bedell limited gun! Really frustrating me, because everything checks out just right! Only happens once or twice every few hundred round during fast splits.

Reset feels great, thats the first thing I checked. Nice positive click. I cannot make the hammer follow dry no matter what I do. Drop the slide, thumb the cocked hammer, engage/disengage thumb safety, everything seems solid. Over travel is where is should be as far as I know. Just a little movment after the sear trips. Enough so that it comfortably clears the half hooks. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Any other ideas?

My new load for my 5" Bedell gun with AET barrel is: 180gr Xtreme plated bullet 4.8gr Alliant American Select 1.17" OAL 170 PF Shoots very nicely, and I guess its pretty accurate? Ive never really taken the time to shoot for groups. I can put several shots pretty close to the center of the A at 25yds if I halfway take my time, So thats good enough for me.

Koenig hammer. I'll check my grip screws, but I usually keep them tight. I'll take a look at the seat spring, but there shouldn't be a problem with it? The gun is not new, it has run reliably for 2 seasons of shooting.

Guys, I was practicing yesterday with my Limited gun (Custom built 2011), and 2 or 3 times out of about 300 rounds, the hammer followed the slide down. It did not set off the next round, but it was all the way down. I fired about another 150 rounds, and could not make it happen again? The sear is new (EGW), with less than 1000 rounds on it, and the angles were checked in a jig. What could be the problem? Trigger is not super light, breaks clean at about 2.5-3lbs. If I cant re-create it, and all the parts look fine, what should I do? Thanks for the info.

Anyone?

Are you trying to figure out which suffix means that it was built in Australia, and has a longer barrel???

Going to resurrect this thread, because I just ran out of Solo1k, and want to try some of my American Select. I'm loading it under 180gr Xtreme plated bullets. Anyone want to report on how it turned out? Colby? Need a starting point. 4.5gr at 1.2" seems awfully light?? That's way below Alliants suggested load.

I love my SDB. I have nothing bad to say about it. Contrary to popular belief, I can easily load large quantities of ammo on it fairly quickly. To be honest, I'm not sure how a 550 or 650 is any faster (unless you have a case feeder). However, it is not a very versitle press. It uses proprietary SDB dies, and cannot load rifle ammo.