jlamphere

Run it. Powders do not absorb moisture.

This Or clays or Solo 1000

I think the patent has expired and others are getting into making the frames now.

The Search feature is your friend here. Try here first: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

I was thinking the same thing and yes, we probably would get convicted. You just can't go around killing witches anymore. Its not like it is 1693.

Reminds me of my ex-wife. She could clear a room too.

I have used this several times: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/736762/lockdown-large-handgun-vault-pistol-security-box-10-x-6-1-2-x-2-steel-black It is good for a single pistol. After reading about it here, I installed a small I-bolt in my big suitcase and ran the cable through that so the pistol case was secured into the suitcase. What the TSA guys at DFW told me was they did not want a case that could be flexed open along any seam. This case is metal and will not flex at all. The lock is pretty simple to pick, but can be replaced with a better one from here: https://securitysnobs.com/Cam-Locks/ My buddy has a Pelican and the Las Vegas TSA guys wanted locks in each hole.

If you double clutch the handle, you can send a case past the powder die empty.

Just curious if any Colts revolver were used in competitions. If not, why not? They do seem expensive compared to Smiths and Rugers.

Sorry to hear you are having problems. I had a malfunction on a SDB and made a bunch do squibs. The rounds you have probably do not have powder. The primer alone will make a filthy case, so you cannot say they have powder based on the case being dirty. Load up one and check it out yourself. I do not think you will be able to weigh the rounds and sort out the light ones. There is too much variance in brass weight to be able to find rounds that are light and expect them to be the bad guys. I now have a couple of 650s and both have the alarm on them that will go off if the case is empty or over filled I had to just shoot mine up and keep a squib rod in my pocket. Or you can pull them and reuse everything.

I loaded a bunch of the 150swc today. 3.1gn of N320 at 1.160 were running 880 to 900 fps. This was in a glock 34. No problems with feeding and were accurate at 15 yards. 2" offhand.

With the bayou 147, I started at 3.1gn N320 at about 1.13. These ran 130 PF , but we're not accurate in my gun. Probably going to run it out long and see if I can find a sweet spot. Still playing with it. I have not measured the bell, but it is just enough to have the bullet sit on the mouth. I use a Lee factory crimp die at .378 and have not had trouble getting into the coating. All of the low power loads have needed a reduced spring. I am running a 13lb and the brass is out about 2 feet from my right foot. With the stock spring the brass would dribble down my right arm and leave little burn trails. Most guys say to use lead load data for these bullets and tweek from there. No experience with the 124. I got some of the 150 semi wad cutters but have only ran a few to see if they would function. So far no problem, but that is only with a dozen or so. Let us know what works for you.

Was the temperature different?

GlockTriggers.com has a couple of good triggers. The Skimmer has a clean break and adjustable pre-travel. The Vogel has a adjustable springs that let you set it up however you like it.

Unless I am mistaken (if I am someone will be quick to correct me), the Dillon die only hits the top of the brass to remove to flair from the powder die. The Lee FCD resizes the entire case all the way down to the base. Because of this, the Lee could deform a soft projectile, but less so on a jacketed as Cy stated..

Do you have a heavier recoil spring or stock? Also, are you shooting magor PF or light loads?

WST and N320 have worked for me. Both have been very hard to find.

Nothing like some PEs or a DQ to burn the rules into the deep parts of the noggin. I can still see the mag in my hand as I pulled the trigger on that last target. I knew the rule, but he needed shooting. I just signed the card and walked away.

Shoot them again. If you had a light strike or a high primer, they should go boom when hit a second time. If it is a high primer, the first hit from the striker will seat the primer while just denting it, the second striker hit will then detonate it. If it is from a lightened striker, shoot if from a 1911 style gun or put the factory striker/spring back in and see what happens.

Living 15 miles out of town where the nearest neighbor is over a mile away is great. I practice my shooting off my driveway and did not have a key to my house until recently. I do not think I locked the doors in the first 10 years we lived here.

For a carry gun, the TRS is hard to beat. If you want a competition gun then maybe something with a fiber front sight. That is a tough decision if you have to choose only one.

Great thought, maybe the basepads are hitting the edge of the magwell. Seems like the mag would have fallen out or he would have had trouble with feeding and had some FTFs.

You are running the stock followers as well? There must be someting wrong with either the springs or the follower, that is all there is to making the slide stop work. I don't know what to tell you. Clean everything, lube it, try some new Wolff or other manufacturars springs, get new followers. This ain't rocket surgery, something basic is not right.

I have used 231 and TightGroup. WST might be easier to locate and will get you there as well.

Maybe the spring tension is reduced with the +3 basepad? Do you need a longer spring?