slavex

@r4ptor yeah, it is going to be a pain, if I knew of a qualified smith up here that I trusted, I would send to them. but, sadly, Canada is lacking in that regards in a big way.

it quite specifically is needing fitting. This is a factory new slide that hasn't been fitted to any frame.

Looking for tips on fitting a new slide to a Shadow 2. I recently got a new OR slide (with the rear cocking serrations too which is nice) and it needs a fair bit of work on the rails to fit the frame it's destined for. I'd love to take on the challenge, but have no idea of what kind of jigs and such I'll need. I've done plenty of barrel fittings, but never a slide and can't even remember what the setups at CZ looked like when I was there. I've looked at Brownells and don't see anything there for clamps or jigs, and can't find anything through a search on Google.

the dovetail is the same width as a regular Shadow 2 I think, but longer and the sight itself is different with the set screw as there is no roll pin to hold it in place.

it is possible to damage the slide dovetail by hitting the sight against something. Carefully check the dovetail and see if it's warped or twisted. It can also shatter if you're not careful. With a new front sight it should slide in with only a little bit of effort, and then make sure you're drilling the hole/slot from the left side of the slide. use a 2mm drill bit to do this. Then, new roll pin and all should be good. If your sight is loose you will need to order an oversized/unfinished one and fit it yourself.

to stop the battering of your spring box on the frame.

I only do 9mm no 223. A buddy said he'd make me a funnel for primers, if I get the machine, which is still up in the air right now.

I have an Immortobot die for checking for stepped cases and a custom made die for debris check. I took a spring loaded FW arms decapping die and drilled a hole in the top, extended the shaft and mounted a micro switch on top that is activated if the rod pushes up. I use a broken decapping pin that reaches right to the bottom of a case for debris checking. But I think the Immortobot die will end up doing that well enough too.

good to know. I know Vince is running his on the 2nd swage station, so it's doable, maybe he's updated the housing since you did the testing?

great info thank you! I don't intend to swage at all, but ream with Vince's reamer that I currently use on the RL1050 (will need some parts from him to make the transition I guess). I have access to a hydraulic press, so hammering isn't necessary lol. But really, I won't need multiple toolheads for the CP as I'll be able to one pass process with the reamer on the other side, Station 2 (normally decapping) debris sense, 3 decap (normally swage), 4 another sensor for checking for stepped cases, 5 sizing maybe, 6 empty, 7 ream, 8 empty. I need the spare toolhead right now so I can run the debris sense die and case check die on their own, before risking decap pins on unknown brass (I do this for other people's brass). But that adds another step, and time, to the whole process. I occasionally will do the debris check on the Revo, but hate swapping toolheads on it just for that. That's my loading machine.

the big thing for me is the ability to swage on the left side of the press (well ream actually). Otherwise there is no benefit to changing from my RL1050 at all. But it seems strange that the 1100 and the 2000 don't share that ability.

Thanks for the reply! So the base of the machine does not have the holes machined in it for those pins? I had thought that upgrading a CP2000 to a priming machine was possible through the purchase of the extra parts. Maybe purchasing an 1100 is a better option then or does it not offer the ability to swage on both sides? The same question regarding toolheads would apply to that option though. edited to add, Just went through the user manuals and I see I wildly mixed up. I thought the CP2000 and the 1100 were the same base machine, just with a few different parts. I guess since the 2000 comes with a toolhead it's not an issue to swap all my dies and stuff over and just sell my Super and RL 1050s and toolheads.

Wondering if my RL1050 toolheads will work on a CP2000 if I get one for processing 9mm? Looking to setup case debris check, deprime, size, ream all on one machine and would need the CP2000 to do it, vs using two different toolheads now on the RL1050. I know the index pins are different lengths, but since I'm only worried about pistol brass I wouldn't think it should matter but wanted to double check.

both my first edition Arcore (nitride) S2s cracked and had to be machined to stop the crack from spreading and the locking block coming apart.

Girlfriend needs lighter mag catch spring in her new gun, as she can barely manipulate the factory one, even using her support hand. Install, tighten down the screw, and it makes the spring bind when you press the mag catch. Back screw off a bit, no issue, but now it's not down tight on the spring. Her other Czechmate and all the other CZs I've installed the same spring in, no issue. The area the spring goes down in front of had some chatter and burs, so I cleaned that up, made it better, but if you tighten the screw, it will still bind, enough that the mag catch won't spring back. Anyone seen this before, any ideas?

if you're shredding buffers in 20 rounds you're doing something wrong. More shooters use buffers than don't, at least at the high level, I asked every CZ shooter I could find at the World shoot in Thailand, and I've asked for a decade plus of competition in Europe. Those that hate them, hate them, the rest of us recognize they are useful and like any part in the gun, should be looked at occasionally. I've shot thousands of rounds after one started to fail and come apart and had zero failures as a result. Going into a match if I saw one was cut or chewed up, I'd replace it, and know that it would last a couple seasons in the match gun thereafter. Practice gun they last between 20-30k and save on the frame battering by the spring box on the slide and vice versa.

interesting that it will work with the Pro models too as the DAA one apparently doesn't.

check the hammer pins and see if they are moving too easily in the gun that locked up. Angus has stated many times that CZC likes the staked hammer pins as the unstaked ones can walk out during the firing sequence and bind up. I've never had that happen and use CGW hardened hammer pins, but it can happen.

any mods done to the hammer?

I look forward to being smothered while loading John....... I wonder if there would be a way to shorten the toolhead travel on a Revo (other than cutting the main shaft lol). Maybe a different index assembly and some software tweaks?

I run the Springer Precision magwell, don't need short grips, but I do need to use Tanfo base pads from Henning as his CZ pads aren't compatible with the magwell. I too am in a 10 round country so no extra capacity or anything.

I don't think those 16 round mags are compatible with Shadows

I've been running flat safeties since I first saw them at the Extreme Euro in Czech in 2010. Back then they were still sold for the Rami, and not really marketed at the Shadow, but a few of the Euro team guys had em and gave me some. When I got first set of 2s they still came with both sets of safeties, so I swapped in the flat immediately. I hate the CZ style of oversized safety as I have a very high grip and end up jamming against the left side one with my support hand. Same with the standard slide catch, I run a flat there too.

Yeah I'm curious as to the round count on the barrel that was replaced too. Only gun I've seen do similar as the OP describes was a very very shot out Glock with a cracked chamber. It ran, it was reasonably accurate, but almost every case that it ejected was split too.

I have a set of Henning Tanfo pads for when I go slum in Standard or Open with my Shadow 2 or OR Shadow 2 and put the magwell on. The bit of material on the pad that contacts the frame needs to be a bit thinner when using a magwell, but, without a magwell if you used the same pads, you can over insert the mag at slidelock. So I don't think there is a universal fit.