seanc

Production rules specifically exempt ammo carrier position if you happen to shoot a revolver, but you need to use a production legal holster.

This was 100% my experience as well even with long colt.

My very limited experience so far is that for me, the only relevant speed difference is in the reloads, at least initially... Yes, I can definitely unload on something close, like 5 yards or less, considerably faster with my 2011 and its 2 lbs trigger that moves a tiny fraction of an inch, but if I actually need to aim, I really can just barely shoot it any faster, like 12-15 yards or beyond, I can't transition it any faster, and just shooting splits or plates or whatever, my splits and transitions are the same or like .001 faster with the auto. I have very little time invested in it so far but some introspection relative to shooting a gun that theoretically should be "faster". For a long time I practiced far and near alot, obsessively. I think that really burned a trigger pull speed into me(which is like a .32+ or so hunting for X's) and that really follows me into everything else. To a large extent I also now am starting to believe it also heavily influenced my revolver reload speed, which when I do a F&N, is a very comfortable highly controlled "can't miss this" process vs really trying to drive that reload into a low or 2 second flat time is more like a 3 second process. These things have served me pretty well on F&N(2015 not withstanding..) but they fail me everywhere else. If I look over my whole history, once I devoted myself to F&N I immediately raised everything up from where I was, but have completely flatlined at pretty much 75% in every major I have shot since 2012. That's what I think anyways. I have half halfheartedly told myself in the past that I need to just shoot a couple classifiers as a major component of practice because to do well you need to be running 20 splits/transitions and your reload needs to be smoking. Consequently my 2016 practice will consist largely of classifiers(icore) that I have watched the top dogs shoot in person and know the numbers for that are a mix of very close high speed shooting/gun handling and a middle distance 6 reload 6. So Alec isn't wrong, maybe something comes out of this that gets me moving ahead on revolver vs stagnating.

Traitor ! Yeah, its good still though. It's been a learning experience. At the end of the day I realize I really like shooting red dots better than iron sights regardless of the gun underneath. I may come back to uspsa rev, we'll see as time goes on. Its only been this season which so far has only been 1 match and a couple outlaw indoor uspsa matches with the 2011.

More or less I only shot revolvers for 5 years. I got into pistol games in 2010 and was shooting an M&P in idpa and ICORE with a loaned 627. In 2011 went basically all revolver, and more often then not except for area and sectional matches I was shooting my icore open revolver in uspsa as well. This year I am shooting an open 2011 in USPSA and enjoying it alot.

n320

Yeah, I mean, I don't get it. I am running 2.7 of titegroup under a 160, totally anemic charge and I have zero signs of primer sealing problems. Something else is going on here.

I just shot the 115 8.8 HS6 load. In the 60 or so rounds I shot, again don't think I can really tell the difference...maybe it bounced a little less? I think Waco is on to something with the idea of shooting a lot of one before trying another and noticing a difference maybe?

It's not something I can definitively quantify. I only know after I switched back to 124's I would run a stage and feel like I shot more and fought the gun less. I understand! This is a good distinction, feeling like you are shooting vs fighting the gun.

It's just faster recovery of a quality sight picture. When the dot returns it seems steady sooner. Thanks, I only ask because I want to see if I am not noticing something in particular.

That is IPSC right? the lightest bullet allowed in IPSC is 121.

I switched to 115's with HS-6 and shot it exclusively the first part of this year. Went back to compare 115's and 124's in practice and could not determine one to be better over the other. Shot 124's at the next match after shooting 115's all year and immediately realized I preferred the 124's. Could not tell the difference under practice conditions. What about the 124's did you feel was better, feel? gun tracking? My limited compare between two bullets same powder, I literally could not tell the difference between them at all which I guess was not what I was expecting. I'm not really sure what I was expecting but was surprised that they were indistinguishable(to me anyways). I just loaded a 100 of the 115 RN with 8.8 of HS6 but probably won't get to try them till tomorrow.

What length? Right now I'm loading 1.135", which chronos at 167 in my slowest barrel. I have 115 RN bullets on hand, so I tested same ballpark today. 115RN, 9.3 of 3n38, these are coming off the press longer, 1.16. With the understanding that how the dot tracks, recoil feels, etc...all that stuff is in my estimation highly subjective, I could not tell this load apart from a 124 RN ,8.5 of 3n38. I shot a mag of each, then interchangeably stacked them in the mag and shot them and I could not tell the difference. Same boom, same dot up/down. Again, this is very subjective, I get it, but I could not even see of feel a difference between them shooting them alternating... This and 5 bucks will get you a nice iced latte... I also had a bunch of 124 RN with 7.7 of 3n37 under them. Again, subjectively I would say this is worse than either of the 3n38 loads above in that it hits your hand harder, but the dot movement is pretty much the same. I have HS6 here that I have not opened, but will be testing with 115's later today. edit...my gun is a full length, 5" with a brazo's trubor thundercomp with two 13/64's holes and lightening slide.

This poll is pretty consistent with research I have done. HS6 is the most recommended powder for 9mm major. And if you read a little further though, 115 bullets seem to be not the first pick because 124's seem to be the defacto bullet weight for open, but once someone tries a 115 they are converts and don't go back which to me is more interesting than the powder discussion.

Matt Cheely recommended 3N37 with MG 121's in my new gun. Good load but it just filled the case too much for me. No way it would work in my opinion with a 115 3n38 and n105 works, 3n37 barely fills in comparison yeah, 3n37 only needs 7.4 in my gun with 124's to make 170pf, its not even a compressed load. 3n38 at 8.5g also makes 170pf and may be just barely compressed. It can definitely take more without issue.

What length?

I was wrong I guess. Shot the gun and after about 75 rounds, stuff mags, pulled it back out and no dot at all this time. Took it apart and this time the batteries were till pretty good. Back to cmore it goes...

It definitely seems to have been the dot. I put a new dot and two more new batteries in that measured 1.55 and in scope they measure 3.10. I turned it on 6 clicks left it, after 60 minutes dot brightness did not noticeably and the two batteries measured 2.98v and on removal each battery measure 1.49. After going through 3 sets of batteries all from different lots and diff types(lith ion, silver di) where the dot was loosing all brightness in less than 10 minutes, only changing the diode changed the result, so I am sold/convinced it was the bad part. thanks, sean

Thanks. I have an assortment of dots here, I just put a new one in with two new batteries and will see if it behaves differently. If it repeats I will send it off to cmore. It is to bad, this one just came back from cmore for another repair...

I have an aluminum click cmore. I typically use two 357/303 batteries. Recently this scope has taken to killing the batteries incredibly fast. Today I was shooting and put two brand new energizer 357 lith ion batteries in it and literally in less than 3 min the dot had lost half its brigthness, cranked to the max it was barely visible. On a volt meter both batteries new from the package came out at 1.55+ v as you'd expect. When the dot goes dim, I pop them out and measure again and 1 battery is still 1.55 and the other had plummeted to 1.1v. This is the 3rd set of batteries that have gotten killed on my very very fast. At first I thought it was bad batteries, but each pair has been bought brand new from different lots and in the last 2 sets its the same story, one of the two batteries is still measuring 1.55 and the other is 1.1 to 1.2. thanks! sean

I enjoyed the show very much and was satisfied with how they wrapped things up, well done end to end.

Peter Lugers in Brooklyn is the best, end of story, all else is secondary.

SV mags . So its the mags thats the limiting factor? In my STi mags, I am loading to 1.175 with plastic STi spacers. They also seem to fit with the steel spacer that comes in Taran's kits as I just got one of those this week.

You won't be dissapointed.

Thanks!