bradsteimel

Hey, if you're shooting limited, the only real advantage to move to open is 1) maybe 1 less reload on some stages, 2) less recoil, easier on your hands/wrists, and 3) if your eyes are failing you can see a dot easier. It should be an easy transition from iron sights to a dot, IF you are committed and don't try to hop back and forth.

My advise: Get with a buddy who'll take you to the range BEFORE a real match and show your the ropes, explain the range command, go over the process, rules, prep you so that you're not so overwhelmed by the range commands, competitors, and all the hype.

Might depend on your slide weight. But for my 141 power factor loads and a light slide, i use 8# Wolff springs. And for my major 170 power factor loads with a heavier slide, i use 10# Wolff springs.

SV mags probably won't need spacers. STI mags prob DO need spacers. Here's a couple good loads to start with: - 7.0gr N350, MG 124gr JHP. OAL 1.150 - 6.5gr CFEPistol, MG 124gr JHP. OAL 1.150 (takes less space in the brass)

9mm v. 38 super. if you're just getting started and have tons of 9 brass, i think you'll be happy with a 9 Open gun. And, if the barrel/chamber is worth a crap, you can reload the brass lots of times. But i will say, the 38 super is flatter/softer, and in the long run, more efficient and fun. The only downside for 38 super is the brass, all other expenses are the same.

You'll be at a disadvantage without one! It definitely helps during a "table-starts" and is makes it much easier to quickly clear a stubborn/bulged round that wouldn't chamber. The only reason for a right-hand shooter to put it on the right side (which is cumbersome to rack) is so you don't have to remove it to field strip for cleaning. Remember, the gun should be setup to be efficient to shoot, not efficient to clean. Put the racker on the left.

For 9mm, 124gr Montana Gold JHP For 38 super, 115gr Montana Gold JHP

I've had some mags that are slightly shorter (front to back) and the follower will not travel freely the entire length of the mag. If you're feeling adventerous, you can file the front edge of the follower to see if that helps. Maybe it won't "catch" on that part of the mag. If you're shooting 38super (I used to load mine to 1.255") and have a couple of mags, I won't mention the brand but the initials are mbx where the mags are too short and won't let the longer 38 super bullets travel up the mag... and they get caught and nose-dive Either way, either the follower or the OAL of the bullets might be the problem.

For my 9 minor Open STI, i use 6.3gr of N350 and a Montana Gold 115gr JHP overall length = 1.150. Produces a 141 power factor that runs the comp nicely and shoots very flat and soft.

Assuming 115gr bullet at 167 power factor: Zero at 21' Less than 10' you need about 1.5" hold-over. So aim at top of head for upper A zone hit. 35' you will only be about 3" low. So just shoot for the top half of the A zone.

Great tip, thanks! Another tip i try to incorporate is to have each hand in the shape that will be needed to grab then gun... for example, your strong hand may have your index finger a little straighter, and thumb out. Whereas your support hand may have all 4 fingers together and straight with the thumb extended. This way both hands are ready to do their part when they get to the gun.

Hey, goals are meant to be fluid... for several matches, try pushing the speed and not worry so much about accuracy. Then when then speed picks up, you'll probably notice, you're loosing too many points by hittting C's and D's and Mikes. That's when it's time to dial it back a bit and continue to push but with more control. It's also easy to set goals like, never leave on steel. Or be intentional with your "splits" - close wide-open target needs FAST splits, longer distance target or one with a partial no-shoot demands more focus and slower splits. Don't shoot everything at one pace.

Probably the best thing to do before your first match is to meet up with a buddy who competes. Go to the range and setup a small 3 or 4 target stage. Have him walk you through every aspect... go over stuff like: 1) it's a cold range - put your belt/holster on at your car, but go to the safe table to put your gun in the holster. 2) load your mags before you get to your first stage 3) how to walk through the stage to get your plan 4) rehearse reloads during your walkthrough 5) go over the range commands: Make ready, Are you ready? Stand by... beep. Unload and show clear. 6) have him explain MULTIPLE TIMES about the 180! 7) don't worry about speed, just get the process down and be safe. 8) 2 shots on paper, knock down the steel, don't shoot the white targets, black portion of targets count as misses. 9) have fun

Definitely agree with case-guaging to eliminate the fat rounds that won't chamber!! But i've also had 38 super brass that was reloaded so many times the overall length of the brass had stretched beyond what would chamber - even though the overall length of the round was within spec. Being a brass-rat with a lot of old brass, i asked the gunsmith to make a slight modification to the chamber to allow for brass that's a little too long. Probably not the best for precision accuracy, but definitely fixed that situation

I run the U die in station one with NO Problems... even with really old/stretched brass. It works fine. I will say, if the brass is sooo bulged, sometimes even the U die won't resize it all the way to the bottom. You'll need to scrap that piece of brass

Great ideas! I end up just letting the primers fall threw and making a mess. Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely get those made.

I have both and i'd say the SC seems to feed slightly better, but may have slightly more extraction problems due to being rimless. Would definitely choose one or the other, and NOT mess around with keeping track of both kinds of brass during reloading and which gun needs which brass!

As far as flare goes, the minimum amount you can use and still have the bullets sit nicely before seating is ideal. Any more than that will overwork your brass. But maybe softer lead bullets need more?!? I know Montanna Gold JHP's do not. To comment on the static in the powder tube, you can address that issue OR just keep the powder tube full... that might provide for more consistent loads.

I really like ordering those type of electronics from Brownell's - because they have unconditional lifetime warrantee. So, even when the manufacturer warrantee expires, Brownell's will still replace it for you. Great service!