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About BallisticianX

  • Rank
    Sees Sights Lift
  • Birthday 02/03/1981

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    Saugerties, NY
  • Interests
    ICORE, USPSA, SCSA, Trap, Gunsmithing, Coyote Night Hunting, Traditional Muzzleloading, Precision Reloading, and Classic Cars.
  • Real Name
    Gus VanEtten

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  1. TRIGGER.jpg.4f54447cfbd271116c837ab5305613d0.jpg

    The raised portion on the trigger should it be stoned down flat?

  2. Im well aware of where he is. As I understood it, and may be wrong, I read the 5" Pre-10 was more common. After the Number designations came about the Model 10 5" gun was an option outside of the special contracts but not made in great numbers or on the regularity of the 4" & 6". 5" guns were usually made as available stock after an order from a contract for said 5" guns was completed with planned overruns.
  3. A special run, smith was noted for being flexible in to do anything a volume order customer wanted, especially law enforcement. Again thats why there are so many off models that makes it difficult to apply any "rules" to production history...Keeps Roy Jinks busy!
  4. COL seems long, could be the problem to fail a plunk test in the barrel not sure what gauge you have but COL may or may not reflect a COL to fail. Crimp seems like its too wide.
  5. Initially it sounds like it could be excessive crimp...but, need some more info: Whats your COL?. Bullet type (cast, plated, jacketed)? Are you seating and crimping on the same die or a separate station for just crimping? Depending on those answers here are the general possibilities that come to mind; Too short of a COL could bulge cases. Ive encountered a lot of the newer 9mm brass that has quite a bit of inside taper that once the bullet heel get to it swells like hell. It is common on many guys reloads when they use the heavier bullets of 147 on up trying lo load on the short side. When using the seating die to seat and crimp at once and your crimp is excessive the case will bite into the bullet while its still being pushed down and deform either the bullet (shaving and/or extruding a lead "ridge") if its cast or coated lead, or crush down the case from the transferred down force with jacketed. Either scenario can increase the loaded diameter. Or it could be just grabbing one side and canting the bullet for a bulge. With regards to a canted bullet, its also possible your seating die stem has an issue allowing the bullet to be seated on such a cant in itself. Inspect the condition of the case closely, not if the bulge is uniform all the way around or just prominent on one side. Depending on your bullet and setup check for what I mentioned above.
  6. I know a lot of people are all about making their revolvers ultralight as possible. I personally am not. I always found a light barreled revolver tends to lose alignment when it meets my eye during a target transition. The lack of weight and resistance hinders balance and stabilization allowing your wrists to wander. I always found my times improved with some barrel heft on a revolver as I could transition with perfect sight alignment for immediate shots as soon as the gun cam into the target and met my eye. The one hundredth of a second saved getting there quicker with a lighter gun was lost with the 2 hundredths of a second to adjust my sight alignment. Most of the 6" barrels from the golden era of the 50' into the 80's without a full or partial underlug were very light to begin with, lop an inch off and its got no stabilization value what so ever. For example I had an old model 17 six shot .22 6" barrel safe dweller I decided to put to use, was gonna buy a 617 but figured Id save money and put the old gun to work. So I retrofitted a 617 cylinder for converting it to a 10 shot and slicked it up. Though it came out great and was accurate I couldn't run a steel challenge stage with that 17 worth a damn as I kept losing the sight alignment, I knew it was just to light for me. I gave up on it, returned it back to original and bought a 617 with the 6" barrel. It was like day and night...I can run that 617 through a stage no problems. Mentioning it something to consider in your choice of barrel. I wouldn't go full blown bull (like a PPC gun) but I wouldn't do a pencil or carbon fiber one either.
  7. I just noticed I misspoke...the 5" was on some pre-10's and early 10's that were spec'd out for 5". It is my understanding any 5" barrels on a k-frame were from special runs due to PD requests. S&W had a habbit of over producing special runs and then selling the leftover stock or any surplus from a cancelled or reduced order. (Thats why there are so many "special contradictions"" in the production history) There may be more too it but I cant remember everything lol
  8. Any K-frame 5" barrel was pre-10. Any K-frame 6" can be cut down but in order to have any thing other than the simple sight blade like in the model 10 pics above, you need the rib (like a model 19 configured barrel) for the extra metal to machine. Not to mention it would come with the S&W traditional 1:18.5" twist. I dont think there are 5" barrels for newer smiths in the k-frame. Even if there is it would be the sleeve style. Either way all that work to retrofit would probably be near, if not more money, than to do a custom barrel to your specs and able to choose a twist. Mark Hartshorne of Pinnacle High Performance (in PA) is the guy for custom barrels on revolvers. HE uses Douglas Barrel blanks and his work is superb.
  9. Im not so sure the epoxy would hold up just clung to the surface while being torqued against on every shot. Also some polymers dont adhere well to epoxy anyway. I wouldnt try it as I think its too much work for a high fail potential.
  10. What can I say, Im a considerate guy.....My friends call me the nicest a@#hole you'll ever meet LOL
  11. I say let it happen. Give them their own division, Call it Outlaw limited Div. for level 1 matches only. Make it a 7 round maximum capacity to bridge between 6 and 8 shot wheelgunners. Then take the money and increase participation and revenue. It can go either way, they might really like the game, Join ICORE and go get a revolver to play at level 2 or 3 matches. Or a lesser chance you lose revolver shooters in changing to the new division. Wont know until you try!
  12. Did you put in a call to ICORE HQ? I doubt they will have a computer file archive of the stages from that long ago. However they may be able to find out who the Postal Match Directors were for those years and you may be able to contact them in hopes they still have them.
  13. Simply the Steel grip adds weight to the gun to absorb recoil energy. It does so by being located in a spot that does not effect the muzzles point-ability or maneuverability as the weight is centralized to the hands vs having the weight forward. In physics terms you added weight to an object with the applied energy (recoil energy) remaining constant. So the heavier object will move or accelerate less under a set amount of force vs a lighter object. With said weight closer to the clamping point (your grip) you dont fatigue the clamping point as you would trying to oppose the leverage effect of weight forward.
  14. I made one out of a set screw. I removed the back strap and drilled thru the frame in line with the Apex solid trigger being careful to line up with the trigger on center and not impede the trigger safety. I short threaded the hole so it had some cinching ability to stay put, put the set screw in and adjusted it. Simple job that takes patience and care. About a year after I did that work I saw S&W offered a trigger stop on the pro model I think, anyway it was of a similar arrangement to mine. I was an innovator LOL! I did this stop to a few M&P's for guys in my area and they were all on pre 2.0's. I haven't done on in quite awhile so I'm not sure if anythings changed to restrict doing this on newer guns.
  15. I prefer oils over grease. My feeling is Grease attracts grit and is trapped in it and carried through it repeatedly. Oils and the liquid characteristics are able to flush away grit. Dirt/sand is much more damaging in an action that the combustion soot thats a given to be in there. So i refrain from grease to not add increased levels of outside elements getting trapped in my guns. Also grease in cold weather will gum whereas good oil wont. I also like the advantages of oil in it creeps into tight clearances to provide lubrication where grease cant.
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