bountyhunter

I also have long thin fingers. Most people don't realize the problem that it causes: the right hand fingers wrap far enough around the grip that it covers the area on the LHS of the grip that you want to press the meaty part of the thumb/palm on the left hand into as the "base" for the LH. Another problem with long fingers as it is difficult to get a comfortable grip with the trigger on the correct point of the trigger finger. I can not securely grip a single stack 1911, it just feels loose in my hand no matter what I do. My Ber 92 is better, but I find the double stack 1911 to be the best fit. One thing he may want to try is what I call an "interlock grip". wrap the two middle fingers of the right hand around the grip, leave the fourth up enough to allow the BOTTOM two fingers of the left hand to wrap tight around the grip. The top two fingers of the LH wrap around the front of the two middle fingers of the right hand, the bottom finger of the RH wraps around the front over the lower LH fingers. You end up with four fingers tightly holding the grip (two from each hand), three fingers in front wrap support (two LH, one RH) which I have found to be much more solid. I frequently use this grip for slow fire or bullseye because it gives me the most stable grip platform. In speed shooting where the left hand must be used for mag changes, interlocking is a disadvantage (so I use a conventional grip).

Dude! Join the club, mine sheared last week. STI sent me a pin, but they are just as brittle and flimsy looking as the one that snapped... also a bugger to get in because of how hard it is to try to compress the internal spring that the head of the pin has to get by to go through. FWIW: the pin is .069" diameter. I took my calipers and found a bright steel finish nail that was .070 (very tough steel, a little softer so not brittle). I filed the groove ring in the middle where the spring has to snap in, filed a cone shape on one end to push past the spring, and then whacked it in. Filed off the ends flush and the pin is now certified indestructable.

I don't know if bobbing the hammer will increase firing pin striking force or not. That increases the speed of the hammer, but reduces it's mass. The hammer must accelerate the firing pin against it's return spring. It's an interesting physics problem, I am not sure whether bobbing is better or worse. I suspect it won't make much difference. As for the hammer: are the sides polished very smooth? Also, don't use a heavy oil on the hammer where it goes on the pivot pin because it will drag. A very light oil like FP-10 is good. Look at the hammer closely and make sure it is not dragging or rubbing on anything as it falls (one of mine had that). I have not had any light strikes using the Wolff ribbed spring. It could be your ammo has harder primers than I am used to. One solution is to use a shim under the end of the strain screw with the Wolf ribbed spring. Tighten all the way in and then back it out until you get a misfire, Turn back in a little and use blue loctite on the strain screw to make sure it stays put. That will assure you have enough hammer force for your ammo. I have found that the ribbed spring design allows me a DA pull of about a pound less for the same hammer force compared to a "flat" spring. The flat springs are OK, but you can not get the trigger pull as light with them.

You have arrived at wisdom. Now, if you were an engineer, you would realize the slide can be used as the "spring compression tool" to insert the clip to take the gun apart before the slide is removed from the frame..... if you make the clip with a long enough "arm" that it can be inserted from the front while the slide is held back..... then allow the slide to come forward and capture the reverse plug against the clip. Then take off the slide with the spring/plug/rod held as a captive assembly. It stays that way while you clean the gun. Reassemble and reverse the procedure: push the slide back, remove the clip tool, slide snaps forward and the gun is done. (No applause please, it's all done with mirrors). The tool should look like this: I_______ Make the long arm so the end is flush with the end of the guide rod when inserted into the tak down hole. The short side should be around 0.15", just long enough that you can sneak it in from under the guide rod (from the muzzle end) and insert it into the take down hole. The secret is how to do it: to take down, push the slide all the way back and grab the gun with your right hand wrapped arounf the back with the first two fingers in the ejection port. That allows you to control the slide position (against spring tension) with just the right hand. Holding the slide, use the left hand to insert the clip tool from the front coming under the guide rod. Once it's in the take down hole, allow the slide to come forward and stop against the tool. Then the slide stop and slide are removed with no spring tension. To assemble: the slide assembly is put on the frame, and the slide stop inserted with the spring assy still being held captive by the clip tool. Then push the slide back and grab it with your right hand while you take out the tool (releasing the spring). Let the slide come forward and assembly is complete. You will be kicking yourself when you see how easy it is to strip and assemble a 1911 using this trick.

I bought them for my four SW guns and tend to agree with that opinion. I thought they would allow me to dial down the mainspring force more to get lighter pull ( and still have good ignition) , but I did not find it to be true. They are also poorly machined and all required fitting (they stick out too far and drag on the primers as made). On top of that, C+S says you can not dry fire without snap caps for what reason I don't know? Overall, I have found them to be a waste of money in that they did not do anything good for my guns. I highly recommend the Wolff reduced power ribbed mainsprings. They are excellent and pull very smoothly.

You should shoot until you get fatigued. At that point, you will be doing wrong things and your muscles will be learning them. Practice makes perfect as long as you are practicing the right thing. FWIW, I shoot maybe 200 rounds in about 1 1/2 hours at my practice session. It took a long time and excercise before I could shoot that long without getting wobbly. When I first started shooting, 20 minutes was about my useful limit.

Another satisfied customer for OKO. FWIW, I've heard bad news about ATN sights, have not personally used them.

Some of my guns have wobbly hammers. I think my HI Power is the worst. As long as the thing mates up with the sear correctly and works right, I'm not sure it means anything.

Me.

Thank you. BTW, now that I looked at the sight, I can report I also bought one a few years back for my Beretta 92FS. It started having problems of failing to return to battery when I installed it. Took it out, problem gone. returned the thing to Brownell's.

An unjust and unnecessary war, which poisons the beliefs of people inside and outside a nation, is an uglier thing still. because patriotic people die in unjust wars exactly the same way they die in just wars, except in the latter their lives are not thrown away like yesterday's trash.

Slide Glide. Mix in some FP-10 or Militec liquid if you want to thin it out and make it slicker.

Post a link where to get one?

If it's a double stack mag (which is naturally tapered) I can just slam it in from underneath without looking at the gun. For a single stack, I tip the bottom up enough that I can see the opening in the receiver, put my left index finger on the front of the mag as a guide, and "look" it into the gun as I insert.... but my guns don't have the fancy flared mag wells as shown in the picture (I'd think I could hit that from across the room). I had a few embarrassing moments with single stacks where I hung the front edge on the frame... don't do that any more.

That does sound suspicious. Might inspect the lower edge of the extractor to see if cases are hanging there instead of rolling under the lip smoothly. Might try radiusing the lower edges a bit and see if it improves.

Possible your recoil spring doesn't have quite enough poop?

Bribe her with sex. Oh wait..... you said you were married. never mind. Offer to clean the bathroom.

Is this the famous bent paper clip tool I use on my STI? If so, you can make on pretty easily.

Blue loctite holds mine in place.

Hmmm.... I never though a 6" barrel wheelgun would need porting. Mine don't. As to how to port a barrel? Well, that's a good question. I bought an aftermarket barrel for a comp gun and ported it with slots like I had seen done to similar barrels. reduction in muzzle flip was tiny, increase in noise, flash, and upwardly directed garbage which tended to fall on my head was massive. Said barrel now has permanent residence in the closet. My personal opinion is porting on .357's is useful for snubby defense guns because the muzzle rise would be unmanageable and make the gun pretty hard to shoot rapidly. Long barreled guns, I am not sure it is worth the trouble.

Oooooh. I like that way better than "flinch".

I use it on the left side of the frame behind the cylinder where my LH thumb rests (just above the grip). I get a little better grip that way. For grips I just use Pachmayr Gripper grips and they work the best for me.

Most common causes: 1) Yanking the trigger 2) Squeezing the grip hand 3) forward push (recoil anticipation).

A new top end for sure, but not necessarily a new ejector. I have an STI 9mm Trojan (5") and I had a .40SW Longlside top end built for it which drops on and works perfectly using the same ejector and slide stop. So, it can be done As for cost? I recall the 6" Trojan top end parts complete ran about $700 and labor for fitting was probably in the $300 range. It's always cheaper just to buy a new gun, but I couldn't because the gun isn't legal here in Nazifornia.

I believe it's directly from Kano Labs. http://www.kanolabs.com