bountyhunter

They used to tell me to shoot one FMJ round at the end of each magfull of lead to clear the crap out of the bore. I just quit shooting lead because of the fact I don't need to breathe the lead fumes at indoor ranges.

From above: "the kit includes the main spring and one long rebound spring and one short rebound spring, the three springs are cryo treated and Vic sells them for around $45, but you'll need to ask him." The springs are cryo treated, which is a super freezing method I have heard used on barrels. Not sure what it does to springs. FWIW, I use the wolff ribbed springs and can easily get 6.5# DA pulls which are glass smooth on my guns firing all ammo, and below 6# if I only used soft primer ammo. IMHO, dropping the DA pull from 6.5 to 6 or even to 5.5 is not really noticable on a wheelgun, it's the smoothness of the pull that is what makes it feel light and easy to shoot. Maybe that's just me.

Here's a secret: about 95% of the improvement in smoothness between "stock" and "glass smooth" is in the rebound slide surfaces and the frame it rides agains. Take the RB slide out and look at the gouge marks in the frame under it near the front. The "strut" coming out of the trigger which mates with the little cup in the RB slide directs a strong force rearward and downWard, causing the block to dig into the frame. 1) Polish the RB slide faces that touch the frame. lay down some 600# paper and apply light oil. Hand sand the blck faces forward and backward on the paper, working the two sides that need to be smoothed. This will take a while to get very smooth. Remove ALL sharp edges and corners from the RB slide on the two contact faces. Tip the block at an angle to bevel the outer edges. The front most/bottom face is the most critical, that's the one that chews up the frame. 2) Polish the frame surfaces. How? I found a good tool: cut off the end of a popsicle stick straight across. Wrap a piece of 600 paper over the end and tape down to the stick. Apply oil, and use this tool to work the inner frame where the RB slide runs against. This can take a while to get smooth. Before final assembly, LOAD up the RB slide faces and frame surfaces with slide glide or a very good grease.

Thanks.

Not trying to offend any gunsmiths, but I have done triggers on many SW's and if the post I wrote above is followed, you will get a trigger which is at least 95% as smooth and light as any pro job (and better than the new PC guns) and it is not "rocket science". As for: "the face of the yoke needs to be square and polished," I would caution against anyone doing any "polishing" on the end of the yoke (crane) tube as that is a critical fit which sets the cylinder position and adjusts end shake. As for: "You need to polish the surfaces of the cylinder stop, the bolt, the barrel of the yoke, the face of the yoke needs to be square and polished, the locking bolt needs to be polished" I am puzzled because in a SW wheelgun, the "cylinder stop", the "bolt", and the "locking bolt" are all tems I have seen used to describe the same part: the bolt directly under the cylinder which pops up and locks the cylinder into it's rest position as the trigger is pulled. It has virtually NO effect on trigger pull weight or feel unless there is something seriously wrong with it and it is hanging up on the frame slot.

The benefit of a lighter pull is that it reduces the average shooter's tendency to rotate the muzzle of the gun off line as the trigger is pulled. Obviously, the RB spring has to be sufficient for a proper return, but when fired at a quick rate, trigger and hammer "return inertia" actually kick the trigger back pretty quickly. Aside from Mr Mickulek, there are very few of us whose performance is limted by the rebound spring, but a vast multitude of us whose scores improve by the benefit of a lighter DA pull.

The trigger return spring is also known as the rebound slide spring. I can tell you how to get the lightest possible DA pull (done it many times): 1) Polishe the two faces of the rebound slide mirror smooth, and round all sharp edges on it that are contact surfaces. Polish the two frame surfaces that mate with it. 2) Lightly polish the sides of the trigger and hammer. 3) use a very good lube (I like a 50-50 mix of FP-10 and Rig +p to lube all surfaces EXCEPT the sides of the hammer. Those only get a drop of FP-10). Assemble gun (trigger should be VERY smooth now). 1) Take out and shoot. Firing DA only, back the strain screw out until you get a misfire then turn it back in about 1/4 turn or so. Mark it or measure the total distance out from "bottomed' so you can set it there later. 2) Either install a lighter rebound slide spring or clip coils off the stock one and check trigger return with the mainspring set at the "backed out" point (this is a snip and check procedure where you have to assemble and disassemble). Stop shortening the RB spring when you get the "return feel" that seems right for you. 3) reassemble and use blue loctite to make sure the strain screw stays at the set point. FYI: I have found the Wolf ribbed springs will give about 1/2 to 1 pound less trigger pull weight for the same ignition force, so I recommend using them.

YES, my guns with the frame mounted FP's require more mainspring force to ignite and thus, a heavier DA pull is necessary. I have not sold any of the new ones, but I do regularly curse SW for going to the stupid frame mounted firing pins (a solution to a non existent problem). I put C+S extended firing pins in all mine and did NOT see a noticable improvement in that department. BTW, the "extended" FP just moves th tip of the FP out to where it was on the old guns (so it can't pierce primers).

Can you describe what parts are in the kit and what makes them better than the stock parts? Also, what does the kit cost?

When you shoot a red dot, do you try to "follow" the dot up and down or do you stay focused on the target point and wait for the dot to return to field of view and then track it from there?

Thanks.

http://www.webarms.com/scopes/Hakko/hakko.htm The price seems good, anybody know about the quality?

If you use a "heavy thumb" grip it requires that the righthand (usually the knuckle area just below the trigger finger) push back to the left to balance the thumb's pressure. As the gun flips up and the thumb position shifts, the pressure on the RH side could turn the muzzle left. At any rate, as somebody pointed out, the solution is to get a grip that stays "neutral" as the gun moves. Plaxco says that's why you should apply front/rear clamping pressure to the grip with the right hand and a balanced "left right" clamp force with the left hand. The right hand should not be applying any "left-right" force. That's also the reason most advise to keep the trigger finger off the frame: if it applies force to the frame on the RHS, the thumbs have to push back to balance it.

Maybe renegade thumbs putting pressure on the frame?

And I dilute mine 50% with FP-10 so it goes twice as far..... haven't gotten near my second tub yet and it;s been about three years?

Glad your experience was a positive one. My wife is a recovering Catholic and her history with their schools is more like a horror story than a panacea. My next door neighbor also was a devout Catholic and sent all his kids to catholic schools (at least, initially). One of them came home with a beating everyday and was labeled as "incorrigable".. It turned out he had dyslexia and ADHD (attention defecit hyperactive disorder) so the beatings and humiliation were not helping him much. He pulled his kids out of there and they turned out OK (not in prisoin and working).

I remember in college a poster that said something to the effect: "This new generation is surly, disrespectful and has no understanding of our sacrifices.... blah, blah, blah" In small print undernetah was the name of the greek scholar who wrote it and the date (it was written hundreds of years BC.)

It occurs to me the definition of "empies" would change the answer. If you are a reloader and load up some rounds without powder and primers, they would be very useful for checking feed path snags. I thought by "empties" you meant brass case with no slug? Those would not be useful.

IMHO it has no value or relevance as to how the gun will feed live ammo and the front edges of the empty cases will probably taer up the polished face of the feed ramp. If you want to know how a gun is going to feed, use real ammo. You can "slow cycle" it by hand to see where the hang up points are (muzzle downrange of course). There are metal snap caps around that are supposed to be as good as real ammo for feed checking, I just use the ammo I'm going to be shooting.

You are correct. It's basically polishing compound.

We miss you at the range. Now I am being beaten by lesser shooters than you in the bullseye league, which is a step backwrds in skill level for me. George still lays down patterns that look like shotgun blasts, starting to think he's crosseyed? So you just turned 50? Now I don't feel quite so old. BTW, it's downhill FAAASSST from there.

I want another red dot scope to go on my SW model 66 for PPC shooting. Lightning fast dot acquisition is not important. I have two Ultra Dots and I love one and hate the other (they haven't fixed the distorted optics in the second one, so I am turned off to Ultra Dot). My question is, what kind of a Red Dot would you recommend if this is the spec: 25mm, 30mm OK if it comes with weaver rings SIMPLE, manual brightness adjust (and windage/elevation adj) Clear dot Distortion free through the sight so the target image doesn't "move" when viewing with both eyes. I have one Ultra Dot that does this and it makes me feel like I am wearing somebody else's glasses (makes me crazy). Long battery life. Maybe $60 - $100 Tasco, ADCO, Simmons.... I don't care what brand it is, I just want a solid red dot with clear optics that will run a long time on a battery. No frills, no digital controls or multiple reticles, just a dot that is accurate and reliable. Thanks.

I have eight of those expensive little suckers for the 1640 (about $50/each). If I was going to drop them on the hard floor, I'd put some double-sticky foam tape on the bottom or use some of the rubber weather stripping tape for sealing windows. It's cheap at Home Depot and it comes right off when you are done shooting. I would sure want something soft between that hard plastic and the concrete when it hit.

I wore contacts for 30 years and I was told that astigmatism can not be corrected using contacts. They always take the astigmatism "power" and add it into the base power for the contact lense. In other words, a scrip of: 2.25 axis , 0.25 prism would get you a contact lense of 2.50. Correcting an astigmatism requires that the lense be oriented a certain way to the eye on axis, and most contacts can not do this. I was told they were trying to develop "weighted" contacts so a specific side would always hang down which could allow an astigmatism correction... never seen them, but they may exist. I will tell you this: contacts would drive me crazy for shooting because your focus chnges slightly with each eye blink and the soft lenses "fog over" as you stare at the sights. Wind and dust are also a big problem.

The full capacity mag for a 1640 is supposed to hold 16 rounds of .40, so total capacity would be 16 + 1 .