bountyhunter

It's true the mags are not registered, so technically it's hard tp prove when you bought them. But if the gun was acquired by PPT after the ban (and that IS registered) and the high caps were for that gun, you'll have a hard time selling the idea that your crystal ball told you to buy hi-caps years before you ever saw the gun so you would have them legally. They will get confiscated if the poop ever hit the fan, and you could get busted for it.

You are correct sir. You can legally buy an open gun from person within Kali (even if the gun is not on the approved list), assuming that person legally owned the gun prior to the new laws being enacted. This is done on a private party transfer, face to face at an FFL. HOWEVER: ANY HI-CAP MAGS MUST REMAIN WITH THE ORIGINAL OWNER. He can not give, sell, lend, teleport, or otherwise cause them to change posession. You also can NOT buy any pre-ban hi-caps or bring any into the state.

Thanks, I'll try that.

Sure. Feet and hips square to the target line, basically an isosceles stance. I flex the elbows slightly to get some recoil absorption and cushion the hit on my shoulders. The right arm is closer to being straight, so the right shoulder is rotated slightly more to the rear and the support (left) arm elbow has a little more bend in it. I don't do the "lean forward" thing (supported by the toes), I generally stand balanced over my feet.

Metalform is now selling actual 10-round mags for single stack 1911's in .40SW. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...+AUTO+MAGAZINES

In speed shooting it feels like I waste a lot of time hunting for the sight picture and aligning after each shot. When I see pros shoot, it looks like the up and down track of the muzzle is the same on every shot. Is there a specific method to obtain consistent muzzle track so the sights come back down to the same area after a shot and you don't have to spend so much time looking for the front sight?

I use the red buffs in my 1640 and they work great.

I'm happy for your success. But, I wonder why anyone would bead blast the *interior* of anything. That makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. To hide the gouge marks from careless machining?

The D spring is the start. Greasing the sear/hammer interface is also important. The Beretta Forum has a posting about what surfaces to polish if you want to do it right. It's one of the easiest guns to do because all you have to do is "flat polish" two surfaces (sear face and hammer hook face). No grinding, filing, changing angles.

I think LB owes you a barrel. 1) They are supposed to be machined from a single piece of stock. 2) The fracture you describe could be caused by a timing issue in the gun where it is not set up right. that will stress the lugs each time it cycles. I'd put money on that one. 3) This can also happen on a gun where the owner frequenly drops the slide from lockbak onto an empty chamber (not accusing you, just noting for information). 4) This is definitely NOT normal wear and should NEVER happen. You should be able to shoot the bore smooth on that gun (like 100,000 rounds) and still have the barrel lugs maintain integrity.

"Should we replace the MIM type parts? " Not unlss there is a problem with them. "How light of a mainspring? " About 18# " Sear spring bending worries me. Is it required? " Adjusting the pressure of the left and center leaf primarily determines trigger pull weight. It can also cause multiple fire or full auto in some cases if too light. "What is the proper hammer hook height for us ham-handed home gunmiths like me that want a 3lb. " Not less than .020" "Since a good many IDPA competitors shoot Kimber .45s (me too, of course), let's hear I stoned the hooks to .023" and polished everything in mine, but I found that 5000 shots did more good than my smith'n. " Makes sense. " It breaks at about 4.5lbs. now, but with everyone's help I think it can be improved. " I've done a lot of different triggers and I think the 1911 is the one I would say do not even attempt without a jig and experience. The reason is that the sear face has two cuts (primary and relief) and they are critical to getting no creep and good hammer capture. Another point is that the sear face wears and MANY 1911 trigger jobs work for a few thousand rounds and then start having hammer follow because the sear face wears slightly and the relief cut was made too far up the face. I fiddle with guns shemlessly, but I would never try a 1911 trigger job because I don't have the setup.

Perfect as is. I like the tubs because I can add some Militec or FP-10 on top and stir up a little bit of lighter viscosity blend if I need it. I don't care for syringes and don't find them useful. I always use a small model paintrush to coat the rails and lugs for even coverage anyway, so the syringe doesn't add anything.

I think the possibility of catastrophic case blowout is basically the risk of an unsupported .40 barrel. FWIW, I used to buy my .40 reloads from a guy who bought all the local police surplus brass (once fired out of Glocks) and you could see a slight bulge in the brass where it was unsupported. I never had a problem. IMO, the .40 kabooms require both an unsupported barrel and either a case that was reloaded too many times or loaded up too hot for sanity.

Interesting. I recall reading something by Plaxo (Shooting From Within) that said one of the key mistakes people make that slows them down is trying to align on dead center and get that "perfect" sight picture.... when what gives best times is knowing when the sights are good enough to hit in the "A" zone and taking the shot. I'm not qualified to give an expert opinion. I can still time my speed runs with a sun dial.

I got a PM kindly offering me a couple of these. I could not reply because the PM and search engine on this site are not working, at least not from this computer. Since I had already ordered some new ones, I don't need any more right now. I actually had five already and ordered three more because the speed shooting league shoots in eight sets of six rounds, and all the really cool guys have eight magazines.... bottom line, I don't like making everybody wait while I reload three of mine so I needed three more to make eight magazines total. Thanks for the offer.

I recall that Brian's definition of tension was something like when the muscles got tense enough to affect performance negatively. I think you should try to keep as relaxed as possible and only use the muscles needed to support and fire the gun. I never subscribed to the techniques where one intentionally forces opposing muscles to push against each other to increase "rigidity" of the stance or hold. I think that just tires you out quickly and doesn't help anyway. I have seen some shooters using a "forward lean" stance when shooting a gun rapidly to use body weight to offset recoil. problem is, when you lean the center of mass forward it requires your legs and feet muscles to compensate for this so that muscle "rension" is required to keep upright when the CM is moved off the balance point.

I think it's carried by Brownells, Natchez Shooters Supply, and Cheaper Than Dirt. I bought straight from the source so I could get a gallon can: http://www.kanolaboratories.com/

That supports the "soft metal" theory. Metal experiences what is called "strain hardening" as it is compressed. As the material is peened over by the latch, the part it hits is getting harder and the effect slows down.

Considering what I've seen on new SW guns, I would be averse to discounting any possibility when it comes to Murphy's Law. It is possible that stainless parts can be too soft either due to using the wrong formula of SS (there are at least 500 registered formulae) or the part is not heat treated properly if such a process is used. FWIW, all of my stainless whellguns show the same peening over time but not after only a couple of thousand rounds. It is true that "snapping" the trigger in DA will accelerate this wear because the revolver will have much more momentum when the stop latch drops into the slot and stops the cylinder. It also wears a notch in the frame slot where the cylinder stop latch comes up (look for that on your gun). BTW: Ruger had some slide bolts made a while back that were as soft as lead fishing weights (I got one on my Mk II). They replaced it no charge and it has been fine since. This stuff does happen, but I think SW would be the last to know because they do zero QA on their parts. Checking hardness is very easy to do if you know somebody who works at a machine shop.

I read somebody said Kroil worked good for cleaning bores. Anybody else use it? Use it straight or mix it with acetone or some other solvent? What does it do well, like loosen hard carbon, copper fouling?

It's true the plastic bases have been known to shatter if they are free dropped onto a hard ground surface. Other than that, the Para mags I have are perfect and have had zero feeding problems. The Pro Mags are notorious for not fitting or feeding corrctly. What's worse, the LDA gun has a trigger bar inside that runs about .050" away from the mag shell. If your mag is wobbly or not fitted properly, it can drag on it. I wanted to try the pro-mags, but I didn't find them in stock anywhere.

I need some 10-rd mags for my Para 1640. The factory mags are about $58 at the discount place (Cheaper Than Dirt). Anybody know of a place to get them cheaper? I also considered buying the junky Pro Mag ones because these are range mags only. I saw them at Natchez Shooters for about $15 but they are out of stock. Any suggestions on where to get either of the above?

Glad to finally see somebody else saying what I have been saying for years.

Bite your tongue and ask some kind stranger to slap you silly.

Make sure it's a 9mm extractor and not a .45 extractor, they are quite different. You need to check the tip faces and angles to make sure they are sharp and not rounded over or that could cause FTE's. Also, hold the slide up to the light with a round under the hook (looking from underneath it) and eyeball how the extractor is mating: is the flat of the rim against the inside flat edge of the extractor? Some 9mm are set with the tip digging into the brass web and that doesn't work right. I (and STI) agree with Mr Heinie about using 12/22 on a 9mm 1911. That's been in mine for it's life with no extraction problems until the tension slithered down to about 6 ounces from lack of maintenance by me over many thousands of rounds. I would definitely polish the throat with the symptoms you describe. Use 600# wet/dry paper and the smooth end (shank) of a drill bit that fits in the throat just right with sandpaper wrapped around it. use oil and sand straight in and outward, not rotary. Don't try to remove material, just work until it's mirror shiny. FWIW: I've never heard of problems with white box ammo.