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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Paul-the new guy

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Everything posted by Paul-the new guy

  1. I have that ALG handguard one one of my favorite rifles
  2. Vltor uppers are great. I am sure the WC set will be awesome also
  3. I loaded on 650's for several years and I got the 1050 thinking it would be easier on my shoulder and it was not the case at all. If anything the 1050 seemed to put more stress on my shoulder. I tried all of the handle positions and it still was way harder to operate than a 650. I fixed it with a Mark 7
  4. I can tell you first hand the more research you do the more frustrated you will be. At least that was/is the case with me... I have built quite a few AR's in .223 so when I decided to build a BO I did it the same way. I used a 10.5" Black Hole barrel with pistol gas. Pistol gas is the only way to go IMO. I used all the same stuff I would have used in a .223 build, JP low mass BCG, JP SC spring, SLR adjustable Ti gas block etc... I shot maybe 20-30 rounds, all un-suppressed and it ran fine. I think the issues may come when I FINALLY get my can. I have a full mass bolt and I have a JP H2 SC spring ready and waiting.
  5. when I google that number it comes back to this http://www.benningmwr.com/outdoor-recreation-equipment-rental/ which is with the e-mail reflected also
  6. Got the call... gave all my info including SS and was promptly e-mailed a receipt. 706-545-7978
  7. Get one from a suppressor mfg that way when you decide you need a can the rifle already has a brake that will work...
  8. I have a 1-7 that doesn't shoot 55's very well that is why I would prefer a 1-8. I also would like the better velocity of an 11.5" I have read a few places that the difference is pretty significant. I use adjustable gas so I don't need a reduced size gas port. Thank you for the suggestion on V seven
  9. Can is a rugged surge 7.62 with a .223 end cap. It will be a couple more months before I get to use it. :-( I would like a more rigid barrel. Thanks for the ideas
  10. Looking for barrel suggestions. I am looking for 1-9 or maybe 1-8 twist, I don't want 1-7 Doesn't need to be a light weight or military profile. I love black hole but they only offer 10.5" or 12.5" this will be for a suppressed rifle. Any suggestions?
  11. Maybe mine are too hot... I run them close to 3000 out of the 16"
  12. I am trying to get some accurate 55 grain loads. The one I have shoot amazing with 69 grain but sucks with 55's Like 3-4 moa sucks I am shooting H335 with 55grn hdy bullets and magnum primers. I really want to only shoot 55's...
  13. I don't see how the adjustable gas key can reduce the recoil like cutting the gas down at the gas block does.
  14. It is the Trijicon RMR RM07 6.5 Moa dot. I have not shot it very much at all. I have had it for a year and maybe 250 rounds. i really need to spend some time on load development and break in. I hate that I am not shooting it. I have the exact same setup in iron sights with no ports also.
  15. I had an "open" gun built to use in 3 gun. My plan was/is to run minor or sub minor...
  16. communication lags a little, seems the people running the match have jobs. There were still spots available this morning so I would say you are in. I am looking forward to this match.
  17. I have ESP's stealths and my understanding is the Dynamic model will do what you are looking for. Call them.
  18. seems crazy that the Mark 8 is almost 3k and the swaro will only be a few hundred more than the z6
  19. The 1-6 new are like you said 2250.00 without the throw lever. I had not seen prices on the 1-8 until today when I looked and it looks like it will be around 2850.00. Mine is 1.5 years old and is in really nice shape. With a Larue mount $1950.00 without $1800.00. I have the box, papers and the $100.00 throw lever.
  20. The preliminary pricing I saw on the internet posted by some sponsored shooters put the 1-8 about $800.00 higher than the 1-6
  21. I put together a couple rifles every year for competition. I do travel to matches (only 5-6 this year 'cause I am old and poor) I have gotten in the habit of "exercising" the adjustment just to try and keep it moving. I am a tinkerer and I always seem to "have" buy the latest coolest thing so often I have to go through the adjustment process a few times during the season. I know a lot of 3 gunners and many have the issue with freezing gas blocks. Is it a big deal? most of the time no. I do have a couple of suppressed rifles that I shoot sometimes without the can and they are way over gassed with the can -vs- without so being able to adjust them is a big deal. I keep thinking I need the Micro MOA gas blocks... One more thing, I shoot quite a bit and sometimes I can't get H335 or 8208 or TAC or... changing your loads can cause a need to adjust. Almost none of my rifles will lock the bolt back with my hoser loads but I try and never shoot to bolt hold back. BTW, I am middle of the pack at best shooter so take all this as the words of a seasoned competitor not a pro.
  22. Lets say you adjust your gas block to an optimum setting for your rifle and match ammo in say Florida in august and you go and shoot say Benning in October... its now 37 degrees and you rifle will not run... I buy adjustable gas blocks so I can adjust them, not just a few times. I have bought several different ones and I got sold on the idea that SLR Ti with a melonited screw was the best and least likely to lock up... total BS $180.00 gas blocks and they seem to lock up more quickly than a 60.00 seekins... I said something to this effect on IG and the SLR guys blocked me... They all seem to lock up but seriously if I go out and shoot 20 rounds and don't adjust it when I get home it won't move a week later without soaking it with some penetrating stuff and working with it. I also feel like after doing this several times the threads are getting jacked up in the ti.
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