Paul-the new guy

I have tried a bunch of gas blocks... (and everything else) I have 3 SLR's right now. 2 of the Ti and one steel and they all get stuck if I don't adjust them right after shooting. They all seem to do this but I was told the Ti wouldn't. I am going Odin Works this time

I love the MRO

The biggest thing is to get a rifle set up so that you have 100% confidence in it. I built all of mine and several for other shooters.

I just went through this same decision process. I ended up buying the Rugged Surge 762. To me it seemed like the right choice, If you buy a few accessories, it is like 4 suppressors in one with one stamp. I got the Surge and added the 5.56 end cap and an additional 5.56 brake. It was a a little over $1k for everything. One additional factor that sold me is it has a 100% unconditional warranty... blow out the end cap or have some baffle strikes because of crappy ammo send it in and they will fix it. Now if I could just buy some patience to help me wait on it... https://ruggedsuppressors.com/product/surge-762/

Oh and welcome to the forums!

There is a ridge in the bottom of the powder die, that is what holds the funnel in and the Mr. BF stays in just fine. I have no idea what the grove is even for on the dillon one.

I have everything plugged into one power strip. Including the RT1500 and I don't have EMI issues. I do have the magnet thing on the cord for something, I don't remember what and I have the filter on the Mr. BF. I have the optical sensor and I wouldn't want to load without it but I load only 9mm and .223 both have crimped primers that are prone to being pulled back in.

I am using the small bucket head vacuum that goes on a 5 gallon bucket. I would like to go faster though...

CMC is a great trigger for the money.

Just be a man and smack it...

crazy, I was just looking for this info. Well, almost I use the 1050

so if a rifle or pistol doubles, DQ?

I have never been to a match where you could not remove a holstered pistol from you belt and put it in your bag. As long as the pistol stays in the holster you are OK.

with an auto drive you may need one of these... http://fastandfriendlybrass.com/shop/item.aspx/dillon-rl-super-1050-heavy-duty-index-pawl/27/

MGM has a throw lever that will work, Call them and they can tell you which one it is.

whatver shell plate you would use for .380 or .223

that looks amazing

I used one when I was running a 1911

Hire your own guy and bring him with you to the match... douche move?

Yes

When I am going to a big match, the 16" rifle is never my first choice. I just built another 18" rifle to replace the Nordic and I used a BHW 18" barrel. It has become my go to rifle. I can hit targets at 300 meters with any of them so it doesn't really matter. If I could only build or buy one I would go 18" I much prefer the impulse of the rifle length gas. Although, Daniel Horner uses a short rifle and he does it very well...

I am no Pat Kelly but I love the way my 14.5 handles. I put a VCOG on it to add some weight because the recoil is a little more snappy even with ULMOS. I REALLY love the 18" and 17.3" the recoil with ULMOS and LMOS is very minor they just don't move period. The length really doesn't slow me down on transitions but again I am no rock star. The balance is different than the balance of the 14.5. The 16'" meh... Really comes down to... "pick one and practice"

You are killing it Ken. I watched you shoot one stage, your time from the beep to the first target is really fast.

Unless you are shooting a game that requires it, you don't want the slide to lock back. Why?

I run one in local matches. If you lock it the gun will not come out period.